Questions & Answers about early or premature roof shingle leaks, wear, or failures
This roof failure diagnosis article investigates types and causes of premature or early roof wear or failures. We describe shingle granule loss shingle curling as a sign of wear on asphalt shingle roofs and discusses
how to identify & explain the most-common asphalt roof shingle failures.
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers nor with topics or services discussed at this website.
Our page top photo shows shingle edge down-curling. Other photos on this page show shingle corner curling.
Also see our shingle curling photos and comparison with shingle fishmouthing shown at EARLY ROOF FAILURE DIAGNOSTIC QUESTIONS. These shingle curling defects occur on organic-mat or fiberglass-mat
asphalt roof shingles. Readers are also invited contribute roof failure information to the web author for research purposes.
web author for research purposes.
Six Year Old Roof Shingle Curling & Granule Loss Diagnosis & Commentary
Question about early asphalt roof shingle failure:
I live in Wisconsin and had my roof replaced (total strip down) about 6 years ago. Now my shingles are curling up or fish mouthing. I do not know what you call it but it looks terrible . Can you help me out? A friend said to check on the internet for something with Owens Corning.
I believe they are 30 yr shingles. I do not have any of the paper work but when they put them on they said they only use premium shingles. Check out the rain gutter. It is 3/4 full of shingle fragments and granules.
The rest of the roof shingles still look good. Any help would be great. - Louis Tolley, Adams WI
Answer and advice on diagnosing a failing fishmouthed shingle "new roof" job:
The roof shingle wear pattern in your photos is easily mistaken for "fishmouthing asphalt roof shingle" but what we see in your photos is not "fishmouthing" but rather shingle curling, combined with extreme granule loss.
Comparing Shingle Fishmouth Patterns with Shingle Curling Patterns
Fishmouthing asphalt shingles appear as an upwards curve in the center of shingle tabs, usually where the center of a fishmouthed shingle tab crosses over the shingle butt joints in the course below. See the fishmouth shingle photos above on this page.
Shingle tab curling, such as shown in your photos, occurs at the corners of shingle tabs, not in the center of the tab. See CURLING ASPHALT SHINGLES.
How old is This Roof Wear-Out?
Regardless, your roof photos show severe wear and curled shingle tabs that we see at the end of roof life - your photos of this worn roof slope show that every single shingle tab is curled up from a corner – that combined with the significant granule loss would be very unusual on a six-year-old roof. We comment further and provide some roof failure diagnostic questions just below.
From looking at the photographs, and recognizing that we are not looking at the entire roof, some comments and questions arise that should help sort out this "early roof failure" mystery:
The roof slopes in your photographs are totally worn out
This does not look like a six year old roof
Your comments suggest that other roof slopes are fine.
Before we assume that the wear difference is due to the building, roof ventilation, weather exposure, or a similar cause, let's consider that the roof is reported to be just six years old - actually we wonder if that's quite right.
Watch out: First off
- don't fall off the roof while you are up there looking around.
Don't walk on these fragile, damaged asphalt shingles - they'll break and leak.
Go back to look at your information on your 6 year old re-roof job with the questions listed below. If you have no records and no documentation of who did the roof, what was the contracted scope of work (all slopes or just some) we can still figure this out by inspection of the whole building.
What type of shingles were installed in your re-roof job six years ago (your photos of failing shingles look like organic base not fiberglass base)
Are the same type of shingles present on all roof slopes?
Are the shingles that are failing or showing wear the same kind of shingle as on the rest of the roof? Same pattern, model, brand, age, batch, package?
Were all the roof slopes re-roofed or just some slopes? Sometimes only the worst or actively leaking roof slope is replaced, especially if the homeowner is squeezing for the lowest re-roof price, money is tight, or the roofer feels that there are five or more years remaining on other roof slopes
Did anyone actually inspect the roof before and after the job, other than the roofer?
Do all of your roof slopes look the same? That is, is the shingle wear the same on all slopes?
Are all roof slopes exposed to similar wind and weather conditions ? Usually not - which slope(s) show the most shingle wear?
Are you sure the roofer actually replaced shingles on all of the slopes?
Did you actually see that work being done?
If you remove or lift one of these bad shingles at the roof edge, do you see raw roof deck below or other old shingle layers?
Other asphalt shingle roof wear indicators and conditions (besides fishmouthing) are discussed beginning at ASPHALT ROOF SHINGLES.
Usually when we have inspected early roof failure cases like this it turns out that there was a misunderstanding (or less often, dishonesty) - the roofer did not re-shingle all slopes, maybe just one of them, but the owner thought they all were being done.
Questions & Answers about early or premature wear, or failures at the ridge cap shingles
Question: Why are these ridge cap shingles failing before the rest of the roof in this photo?
See the ridge cap shingle wear photo at left [click to see an enlarged, detailed version]. I’d like to understand why the ridge shingles only, deteriorated.
I was told that this was a Presidential composition asphalt shingle roof about 10 years old.
Do you know any roofers that have seen this condition?
Thanks,
Glenn Stewart, a.k.a. The House Whisperer
Reply: These Ridge Cap Shingles are from a different shingle model, batch, and possibly brand than the singles used on the body of the roof
A competent onsite inspection by a roofing expert usually finds additional clues that help accurately diagnose a roof or other building problem. But sometimes even experienced roofers and home inspectors as well as home owners can be left baffled by roofing failure patterns. Nevertheless I am convinced that if we could know enough (or maybe know everything) about any given roof failure condition we would never ascribe the failure to random chance and we could indeed explain what's going on. In this case we can make a pretty reasonable guess at why your ridge cap shingles look so different, and so worn, compared with the shingles on the main body or field of the roof.
First let's look at the shingles on the body of the roof
The pattern and style of shingles used on the main body or field of the roof in your photos look somewhat but NOT exactly like a laminate-type shingle or at least a style that mimics laminate type shingles. (We'd have to see a closer or edge view of the body shingles to know if they are actually laminated multi-layered shingle tabs or a single thickness design). From the name you offered and the appearance, these may resemble but in your photo do not appear to be exactly like the Presidential Shake™ triple laminate shingles produced and sold by CertainTeed (Saint-Globan), a major roofing manufacturer. So I'm not sure if the roof shown (above left) is Presidential Shake™ triple laminate shingles or rather a lookalike.
Now let's look at the shingles at the ridge - the ridge cap shingles
But in any case, unlike a conventional three-tab asphalt roof shingle, the style and pattern of shingles on the roof body do not provide a shingle that would be easily cut up in the field to produce the rectangular individual shingles needed to cover a ridge or form a ridge cap at the apex of the roof. That tells me that the ridge cap shingles are most likely not the same product or material as the shingles used on the roof body. So we wouldn't be stunned if the performance of the ridge shingles differed from those on the field or body of the roof.
But what is unusual is to see ridge cap shingle failure so much earlier than wear on the field of the roof. I can guess at several explanations:
These ridge cap shingles may not be the same material, batch, and model as the field shingles on the rest of the roof and they may have been stored improperly
The roofer would have either bought special ridge cap shingles or more commonly the roofer would make the needed ridge cap covering by trimming and cutting asphalt shingles from whatever was at hand, sometimes even a different batch of conventional 3-tab roofing shingles. If s/he used whatever was at hand that seemed close in color to the field of the roof, it's plausible that a less costly (and less durable) model of roof shingle was selected to make the ridge cap.
A close look at your ridge cap shingle photo suggests that even the cap shingles may have been cut from laminated shingle material. I think I see multiple shingle edges in view.
On occasion too I've found roofers taking the expedient course of "using up" leftover shingles from a previous job to make the ridge caps. Depending on how old these leftovers were, and more importantly, where and under what conditions they were stored, they might well fail quickly when installed on a roof. Believe it or not, asphalt shingles not yet installed on a roof should be stored in a cool, dry place, out of direct sunlight. You can read this advice on shingle packaging and in installation manuals.
In sum, it looks to me as if the ridge cap shingles may have been a different, and inferior product to the shingles used on the rest of the roof. And worse, they may also have been stored or handled improperly.
While we could observe that there also seems to be no ridge vent on this roof, and while heat, moisture from below, and lack of adequate ventilation are important factors in shingle wear, curling, and even granule loss, the product difference and possibly product storage and age conditions are the most likely explanation of their early failure.
Ridge Cap Shingle Installation Details from Certainteed™
Update: Glenn adds that a roofer suggested that this shingle failure at the ridge was due to cracks where the shingles were bent over the ridge, and more serious because the ridge cap shingles were laminates, thicker, more likely to crack when bent.
You will read our own concluding opinion and reasoning about the cap shingle failure photo [above] at the end of the following comments and ridge cap shingle installation details provided courtesy of Certainteed.
Indeed, Certainteed warns in the installation instructions for these shingles:
CAUTION: To prevent cracking, shingles must be warm enough to
allow proper forming for hips, ridges and valleys.
and the company also illustrates how ridge cap shingles should be installed (illustration shown at left, click to enlarge) and recommends:
For capping hip and ridge, apply
CertainTeed “Presidential Accessory”
shingles or Mountain Ridge
shingles of a like color.
Cedar Crest or Mountain Ridge accessory shingles can be used for
covering hips and ridges. Apply shingles up to the ridge. Fasten each
accessory with two fasteners. The fasteners must be 13⁄4" long or
longer, so they penetrate either 3⁄4" into the deck or completely
through the deck.
Use Mountain Ridge accessory shingles to cover hips, ridges or
rake edges. One box will cover 20 linear feet. To prevent damage to
shingles during application, they must be sufficiently warm to allow
proper forming.
FASTENING -
IMPORTANT: Use two nails to fasten each shingle. Nails must be
minimum 13⁄4" (45 mm) long. For the 4" (100 mm) starter shingle,
place fastener 1" (25 mm) in from each side edge and about 2"
(50 mm) from the rake (or eave) edge, making sure the fastener
goes 3⁄4" into the deck or all the way through. For each full accessory
shingle, place fasteners 85⁄8" (219 mm) up from its exposed butt
edge and 1" (25 mm) in from each side edge.
Here’s a Tip… To provide a level surface for hip and ridge caps applied over Presidential TL, a “nailer” made from 1-by boards
can be installed or a piece of metal can be formed to support the caps. Also ridge vents made from sturdy material
can serve as a base to provide an even uniform appearance.
Note that the ridge cap shingles in the Certainteed illustration are not a laminate of material. Also note that in the ridge cap failure photo above there is no roof ventilation visible. The company provides plenty of detail about installing hip and ridge shingles, as we continue to quote:
HIP, RIDGE AND RAKE SHINGLE APPLICATION [quoted Certainteed™ text is in italics below]
Apply the primary field roofing up to the hip or ridge from both sides
of the roof and trim flush or lap over one side, not more than half
the width of an accessory shingle.
Assure that the installed accessory shingles properly cover field shingles
on both sides and along rake edges. For a rake edge installation,
cut the field shingles flush to the rake edge. Apply accessory shingles
ensuring they fit securely against the rake board. To assist in proper
alignment, snap a chalk line parallel to the hip, ridge or
rake along the line where the side edges of the accessory
shingles should fall.
Prepare a 4" Starter shingle by cutting off the lower 8" color granule
butt portion of one accessory shingle. Apply the 4" starter piece
(with sealant nearest the outer edge) over the bottom corner of the
hip or rake, or on either end of the ridge, overhanging the corner or
end by approximately 1⁄2" and bending the starter shingle along its
centerline to form into place (see figures below.) Install a nail on
each side about 2" up from the starter shingle’s exposed butt edge
and 1" in from each side edge of the shingle. The 8" piece that was
cut off may be used to finish the opposite end of hip, ridge or rake.
Next, apply a full Mountain Ridge shingle over the installed starter
shingle, bending it along its centerline and forming into place over
the hip, ridge or rake, flush with the bottom and side edges of the
starter shingle. Install a nail on each side of the shingle 85⁄8" up from
the bottom edge and 1" in from each side edge.
Continue application of the Mountain Ridge shingles along the hip, ridge or
rake as shown. Expose Mountain Ridge shingles 8", covering all fasteners.
Using CEDAR CREST MEDIUM-PROFILE
HIP AND RIDGE ACCESSORY SHINGLES [quoted text is in italics below]
Cedar Crest hip and ridge shingles deliver a thicker appearance to
accentuate the roof lines for a more attractive finish. Unlike other
accessory products which have a monotone appearance, Cedar Crest
has blended colors that complement the Landmark™ Landmark TL™,
Presidential™ and Presidential TL™ shingle colors. Cedar Crest’s multilayer
design gives additional protection at critical stress points and its
aggressive sealant helps ensure the caps stay on the roof.
Use Cedar Crest accessory shingles to cover hips and ridges. Carefully
separate the three-piece units prior to application, by first folding
along the pre-cut lines and then detatching the pieces (see Fig. 15-
19). No cutting is necessary. There are 30 individual shingles (10
three-piece units) in each bundle. One bundle will cover 20 linear
feet. Each 12" x 12" shingle has a shadowline that is a design feature
which is visible when applied properly. To prevent shingle damage
during application, they must be sufficiently warm to allow proper
forming.
FASTENING the Ridge Cap Shingles
[quoted text is in italics below]
IMPORTANT: Use TWO nails to fasten each shingle. Fasteners must
be minimum 1-3/4" (45 mm) long.
For the starter shingle, place fastener 1" in from each side edge and
about 2" up from the starter shingle’s exposed butt edge, making sure
fastener goes 3/4" into the deck or all the way through the deck. (see
15-20). For each full Cedar Crest shingle, place fasteners 8-5/8" up
from its exposed butt edge and 1" in from each side edge (see 15-21).
Concluding OPINION about the ridge cap shingle failure photo above
We agree that often cracks at the ridge cap shingles lead to their wear, moreso if the shingle was thick and hard to bend, and still moreso if the shingle was bent in cold weather or under cold conditions rather than allowing it to heat up first. And Certainteed as well as other roofing shingle manufactures warn about proper bending (with heat) to avoid cracked ridge cap shingles and rake edge shingles.
But in the case of the bald, curling ridge cap shingles above, the wear is not showing up as a shingle crack failure as much as curling and granule loss that extends across the entire cap, on both sides, and along all of the shingles along the ridge.
On roofs I installed or later inspected, cracking due to bending tends to be inconsistent - not the same on all cap shingles. And because water penetrates at the crack in the shingle, wear at a shingle crack tends to originate at and spread out from the crack.
The roofer may be correct, but to me, these shingles just don't look like a cracking failure. We don't see wear that originates at and is worse at the apex of the shingles where cracks would appear. In fact the worst granule loss is at the edges of the cap shingles, consistent with a shingle curling and granule loss failure not a cracking failure.
We have contacted Certainteed to ask the company's opinion and advice and will keep readers informed in this spot.
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Mark Cramer Inspection Services Mark Cramer, Tampa Florida, Mr. Cramer is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors and is a Florida home inspector and home inspection educator. (727) 595-4211 mark@BestTampaInspector.com
Hankey and Brown home inspectors, Eden Prairie, MN, technical review by Roger Hankey, prior chairman, Standards Committee, American Society of Home Inspectors - ASHI. 952 829-0044 - hankeyandbrown.com
Arlene Puentes, a licensed home inspector, educator, and building failures researcher in Kingston, NY
"Certainteed Shingle Applicators' Manual [for] Presidential Shake™ and Presidential Shake™ TL", [... the correct procedures
for installing Presidential Shake™ and Presidential Shake™ TL shingles], CertainTeed Saint Globan, web search 08/02/2011, original source for the CertainTeed Presidential Shake TL triple laminate asphalt roof shingles: see http://www.certainteed.com/products/roofing/309019
Telephone: Building Professionals call:
800-233-8990,
Consumers call:
800-782-8777
Glenn Stewart, Pacific Coast Inspections, PO Box 2344 Aptos, Ca 95001, is a professional home inspector located in Aptos CA. Tel:
866-570-1222,
aka "the House Whisperer", www.TheHouseWhispererBlog.com. Email: 1bbglenn@comcast.net
Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair
Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.
The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 2010, $69.00 U.S., is available from Carson Dunlop. The Home Reference Book is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. InspectAPedia.com ® author/editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume.
Architectural elements: the technological revolution: Galvanized iron roof plates and corrugated sheets; cast iron facades, columns, door and window caps, ... (American historical catalog collection), Diana S Waite, available used out of Amazon.
Green Roof Plants: A Resource and Planting Guide, Edmund C. Snodgrass, Lucie L. Snodgrass, Timber Press, Incorporated, 2006, ISBN-10: 0881927872, ISBN-13: 978-0881927870. The text covers moisture needs, heat tolerance, hardiness, bloom color, foliage characteristics, and height of 350 species and cultivars.
Green Roof Construction and Maintenance, Kelley Luckett, McGraw-Hill Professional, 2009, ISBN-10: 007160880X, ISBN-13: 978-0071608800, quoting: Key questions to ask at each stage of the green building process Tested tips and techniques for successful structural design
Construction methods for new and existing buildings
Information on insulation, drainage, detailing, irrigation, and plant selection
Details on optimal soil formulation
Illustrations featuring various stages of construction
Best practices for green roof maintenance
A survey of environmental benefits, including evapo-transpiration, storm-water management, habitat restoration, and improvement of air quality
Tips on the LEED design and certification process
Considerations for assessing return on investment
Color photographs of successfully installed green roofs
Useful checklists, tables, and charts
Problems in Roofing Design, B. Harrison McCampbell, Butterworth Heineman, 1991 ISBN 0-7506-9162-X (available used)
Roofing The Right Way, Steven Bolt, McGraw-Hill Professional; 3rd Ed (1996), ISBN-10: 0070066507, ISBN-13: 978-0070066502
Slate Roofs, National Slate Association, 1926, reprinted 1977
by Vermont Structural Slate Co., Inc., Fair Haven, VT 05743, 802-265-4933/34. (We recommend this book if you can find it. It
has gone in and out of print on occasion.)
Roof Tiling & Slating, a Practical Guide, Kevin Taylor, Crowood Press (2008), ISBN 978-1847970237, If you have never fixed a roof tile or slate before but have wondered how to go about repairing or replacing them, then this is the book for you. Many of the technical books about roof tiling and slating are rather vague and conveniently ignore some of the trickier problems and how they can be resolved. In Roof Tiling and Slating, the author rejects this cautious approach. Kevin Taylor uses both his extensive knowledge of the trade and his ability to explain the subject in easily understandable terms, to demonstrate how to carry out the work safely to a high standard, using tried and tested methods.
This clay roof tile guide considers the various types of tiles, slates, and roofing materials on the market as well as their uses, how to estimate the required quantities, and where to buy them. It also discusses how to check and assess a roof and how to identify and rectify problems; describes how to efficiently "set out" roofs from small, simple jobs to larger and more complicated projects, thus making the work quicker, simpler, and neater; examines the correct and the incorrect ways of installing background materials such as underlay, battens, and valley liners; explains how to install interlocking tiles, plain tiles, and artificial and natural slates; covers both modern and traditional methods and skills, including cutting materials by hand without the assistance of power tools; and provides invaluable guidance on repairs and maintenance issues, and highlights common mistakes and how they can be avoided.
The author, Kevin Taylor, works for the National Federation of Roofing Contractors as a technical manager presenting technical advice and providing education and training for young roofers.
The Slate Roof Bible, Joseph Jenkins, www.jenkinsslate.com,
143 Forest Lane, PO Box 607, Grove City, PA 16127 - 866-641-7141 (We recommend this book).
Solar heating, radiative cooling and thermal movement: Their effects on built-up roofing (United States. National Bureau of Standards. Technical note), William C Cullen, Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Govt. Print. Off (1963), ASIN: B0007FTV2Q
"Weather-Resistive Barriers [copy on file as /interiors/Weather_Resistant_Barriers_DOE.pdf ] - ", how to select and install housewrap and other types of weather resistive barriers, U.S. DOE