Mold Contamination on or in Books, Paper, Photographs
how to remove mold & mold stains from books & papers

BOOK MOLD, Moldy Book Cleaning - CONTENTS
Can I Save Moldy Books, papers, photographs?
ART CONSERVATION - Cultural Heritage and Aerobiology - separate article
ARTWORK MOLD CONTAMINATION - separate article
BIODETERIORATION AGENT & STAIN CATALOG - separate article
BLACK LIGHT & UV LIGHT USES - separate article
BLOOD in ART WORKS, TESTING FOR - separate article
FLOOD DAMAGE ASSESSMENT, SAFETY & CLEANUP - separate article
FLOODS IN BUILDINGS-mold - separate article
FOXING STAINS on books & papers - separate article
MILDEW REMOVAL & PREVENTION - separate article
Questions & answers about mold contamination on books, papers, libraries, documents
References

Click to Show or Hide Related Topics

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

This article explains how to deal with mold on books and papers, and what options we have for cleaning or storing moldy books. The moldy books in a college library (photo above) were in the opinion of some people "an old inactive mold problem" but see our warning below about "dormant mold". The extensive range and area of moldy books in this library was capable of producing very high (and unsafe) levels of harmful mold spores. We explain why the airborne mold level actually got worse at the start of mold remediation. We also discuss moldy books at FOXING STAINS on books & papers and at MOLD ACTIVITY in buildings. See MOLD CLEANUP GUIDE- HOW TO GET RID OF MOLD for details on cleaning moldy materials. Readers should also see MOLD AGE - Old is the Mold?. Also see MOLD GROWTH on SURFACES for an index of what mold genera/species are frequently found on various building surfaces and materials.

Moldy Books and Papers - Can I Save Moldy Books?

Question: Is it possible to get rid of mold in books?

I have mold disease and I'm wondering if it's at all possible to get rid of mold in books or if I need to give them all away. Should I even try? - E.A.

Answer:

OPINION: A competent onsite inspection by an expert usually finds additional clues that help accurately diagnose a problem, so it could be dangerous to assume that the moldy books are the only or even the most serious mold problem in your home.

Watch out: as you indicate that you personally have a mold-related illness, you should not attempt a mold cleanup project yourself without first checking with your doctor. Most likely the physician will tell you to keep your hands off of mold stuff, and to have a professional handle the cleanup (negative air, dust control, containment, etc). See DO-IT-YOURSELF MOLD CLEANUP WARNINGS. Also see MOLD RELATED ILLNESS SYMPTOMS.

As we explain at MOLD AGE - Old is the Mold?, especially in older buildings where there has been a recent sudden leak event associated with mold growth, it is often possible to identify pre-existing mold as well as mold-producing conditions.

Considerations When Preparing to Clean or Salvage Moldy Books or Papers

That said, here are some things to consider when deciding to clean or scrap moldy books or papers:

First inspect the books carefully (or have someone not mold sensitive do that inspection - see our warnings below). IF mold is only on the book exterior, you can probably wipe down the book exterior or brush the book exterior. You could use any household cleaner, even water. We're not trying to kill the mold, we're trying to remove it. If you can remove loose mold from the book exterior it wont' hurt if some stains remain.
As a DIY book mold removal project, some folks have successfully cleaned books that suffered just exterior mold, but it may leave a moldy smell in some or all of the books even when there is no longer visible mold.
How we should clean the book exterior: take your books outside for cleaning on a dry sunny day. But work in the shade. Excessive sun exposure can damage books by fading and warping. (OK so if it's just one book I clean it in the kitchen.) The book exterior is lightly brushed, or much better, HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air - a filter system that traps very small particles) vacuumed, gently so as not to damage the book.

Watch out: if you try using an ordinary household vacuum that is leaky and especially not HEPA rated, you will be aerating small mold spores, creating a potential health hazard and sending potentially harmful dust throughout the building. If you do not have access to a HEPA-rated vacuum cleaner, you may have some book cleaning success using a "magnetic" wiping cloth such as Swifter Sweeper Dry Sweeping Cloths, un-scented but be careful to avoid using wipes that are themselves dampened with a chemical, cleaner, or perfume - see our next warning below. At References we list book water disaster procedures, book conservation articles, and cleaning and HEPA vacuum supply sources.

For certain sticky deposits found on some book exteriors (candy, sugar) we used a very slightly-damp steri-wipe or disposable cloth to wipe the book exterior. Some book mold cleaning articles recommend using a wipe dampened with ethyl alcohol - enough to clean but not so much as to make ink run.

Watch out: we do not recommend the advice we've read by some who advise using a damp sponge to wipe the book. Using our portable field lab we monitored a major book cleaning operation conducted for a U.S. National Park Service facility in New York. According to book conservation experts such as the Department of Preservation & Collection Maintenance, Cornell University Library:
- Do not wipe your books with any cloth treated with wax, liquid, or perfumes; chemical additives may harm your books.
Test results for "cleaned" book surfaces: We inspected and tested (by collecting surface samples of dust and debris) the level of mold on individual books before treatment and after each stage in the cleaning procedure - an initial wipe-down and an final outdoor wipe down and HEPA vacuum. We found that mold was distributed at high levels uniformly over books leaving the cleaning station. On investigation we found that the workers at the cleaning station were dipping a sponge (or rag) into a bucket of "disinfectant", then wiping each book, then rinsing the sponge/rag in the bucket again, then wiping the next book.

The result was that mold and fungal hyphae were quickly spread rather uniformly over every book that was processed - in some cases the level of book mold contamination was actually increased! The solution was to use a disposable wipe or clean rag, wipe the book, and throw the wipe away or fold the clean
Vacuuming moldy books: is a procedure we like, and we've also see references to using an "electrostatic duster" to clean the surface of books, but

Watch out: similar to our warning above about wiping books with a contaminated sponge or rag, we have sometimes found that a vacuum brush itself can become mold-contaminated and may spread mold from one surface to another. However it may be possible to lightly vacuum book exteriors and the edges of moldy pages with the book closed, sufficient to significantly reduce the level of loose mold before then continuing with a wiping procedure.
If the book interior pages are moldy, simple exterior book wiping won't do the trick. There are services that can clean moldy books but it's expensive, especially if mold is on more than the book exterior. Treatment of individual pages of a valuable book absolutely needs to be performed by a conservator or other expert. Just going at the book with bleach and rags can damage the book and even spread moldy debris throughout otherwise previously clean pages, just as we warned above about cross-contaminating one book exterior from another.
Freezer treatment, Heat Treatment, or Microwave treatment for books: Some of our clients and readers have tried do-it-yourself mold cleanup methods like putting their moldy books in a freezer for a week or two to see if they can dryout and "kill" the mold.

Experts may use a "freeze-dry" system combined with cleaning.

Watch out: We are doubtful that a simple "overnight" treatment of a book in a freezer will be sufficient. Microwaving (heat) might also kill mold but it may also damage the book. And again, it's a mistake to try to "kill" mold when what's needed is to remove it. Even "dead" mold spores may be toxic or allergenic. See MOLD KILLING GUIDE.
- Heat treatment to attempt to deactivate mold, insects, bedbugs, etc. is often used for books, papers, even furniture or carpets. Exposure to temperatures at or above 180F for as little as an hour has been reported [citation needed] to be effective.
- Microwave treatment for books or furnishings is similar to more conventional heat treatment but may not be viable for products that contain metal, including metallic glazes, gold leaf, etc.
- Freezer treatment for moldy books & papers offers a potentially significant advantage in that it avoids the deterioration that may occur to books, papers, artwork or other items when subjected to high temperatures. However the procedures we have reviewed also require more time for freezer treatment (often at temperatures around -18F) than for heat treatment approaches.
Foxing stains on books, papers & photos: reddish brown stains observed on book pages, paper edges, and on other paper documents & photographs are caused by a combination of humidity, mold colonization by certain genera/species, and paper chemistry including the presence of iron oxide. Details about foxing are at FOXING STAINS on books & papers.
After treatment by freezing, drying, or fumigating (?), books are then individually steri-wiped, HEPA vacuumed, and inspected. This treatment includes not just the book exterior, but its interior pages - that's why hiring a professional to clean and restore books is costly. Also see MOLD CLEANERS - WHAT TO USE.
Sun Treatment for Moldy-smelling books: That remaining musty or moldy smell or book odor, even after cleaning, will be a mold volatile organic compound or MVOC is itself a health or irritant problem to some people, especially someone who has become sensitized to mold, is asthmatic, or has other illnesses or fragile health. We have found that you can often significantly reduce MVOC levels and mold odors in cleaned books by placing them in sunlight but

Watch out: book conservators warn against leaving books in the sun. The sun will also warp and damage book covers, especially wet or damp books, and heaven forbid if it rains while you've left your books outside. See MVOCs & MOLDY MUSTY ODORS. And remember, the object is to remove the mold, not "kill" it.
Valuable books: may be re-bound. If the book or books is or are valuable, and if the book binding is in poor condition as well as moldy, it may make sense to have the moldy binding removed, the book interior cleaned, and the book then re-bound. But this is certainly too costly for an ordinary home library.
Storing books after mold removal: Some of our clients decided to keep valuable moldy books after drying them, vacuuming, wiping the books themselves. But because the books smelled, they were permanently stored in air-tight plastic bins. The bins were opened and the individual book aired out when needed. Another client constructed a dry, air-tight bookcase with sealed doors for storage of their cleaned de-molded books. Be sure that the book container itself is dry and clean.
After examination and brief use, the book was returned to the airtight storage bin.
Other steps to prevent books from becoming moldy, besides storing them in a dry airtight container will start with a focus on storing books where they are not exposed to water or high humidity.

Watch out for desiccants: We have read suggestions to use silica gel or other moisture-absorbing materials to try to keep stored books dry - it sounds like a great idea but we've seen some poor results when folks bought the silica gel, placed it and forgot it. Because the material is hygroscopic, it can ultimately become a soup that stops absorbing moisture and instead starts giving it back to the books.

We prefer to maintain humidity, where necessary, by removing unwanted moisture sources (leaks, poor venting) and using a dehumidifier. See HUMIDITY CONTROL & TARGETS INDOORS.

So ultimately, if the books are valuable, some of them may merit professional cleaning. Otherwise, unless the mold on your books is superficial, it's more likely less costly to dispose of the moldy books and purchase new clean dry copies.

Dormant book or paper mold problems?

We have also read book mold cleaning articles recommending that you make the mold go "dormant" so that it's dry and powdery.

That makes some sense insofar as it's easier to vacuum or wipe off a dry powdery substance than damp moldy surfaces. And while we wouldn't call it a "dormant" state, the ongoing growth of mold may slow or even stop if conditions are no longer favorable for the particular species present - for example, if the books are dried and kept at sufficiently low humidity. But be sure to see our health hazard warning immediately below.

Health Hazards of Moldy Book Collections: Clouds of Mold Rose from the Library Book Shelves

Watch out: The moldy books in a library (photo at page top and at left) were in the opinion of some of the parties "an old inactive mold problem".

But when workers began dehumidifying the area in preparation for a mold cleanup, conditions actually got quite dangerous: there were so many moldy books with such thick mold growth that visible clouds of Aspergillus sp. spores were released into the air by small air currents caused by simply walking down the aisle between stacks of books.

On book bindings we found heavy growths of Aspergillus sp. and on some books, Cladosporium sp. Not surprisingly, mold growth density varied significantly from book to book, even among adjacent books, depending on the binding materials.

Lab Photos of Book Mold from a Library

Our book mold lab photographs made from samples at the project above show dense Aspergillus sp. spores from a book binding surface (below left) and Cladosporium sp. fungal spores (below right) from a different book binding. Very high levels of airborne Aspergillus sp. were found in the book storage area after the dehumidifiers began operating and before the cleanup had begun.

Aspergillus on moldy books (C) Daniel Friedman

Cladosporium sp on moldy books (C) Daniel Friedman

Properties of Typical Library Bookshelf Dust

By contrast, our lab samples and photos of typical dust found on bookshelves in areas of a library that were not mold-contaminated were more like typical house dust.

The dominant library dust particles were paper fibers, carpet fibers, skin cells and of course a few pollen grains and isolated fungal spores. In our photo of typical library bookshelf dust (below left) that large particle is pine pollen. In older sections of a library and in basements, insect fragments and elevated levels of dust mite fecals.

Where renovations had gone on nearby, we found non-fungal granular debris typical of plaster or drywall dust (photo below right).

Typical library bookshelf dust (C) Daniel Friedman

Is there Ever Mildew on Books?

We have seen several articles that refer to mildew on books. Those writers are almost certainly technically mistaken. Mildew (a much smaller subclass of members of the mold family) is an obligate parasite that grows on living plants - like grapes. So unless your books are bound in grape leaves, the fungal growth found on books and papers is indeed mold, often Aspergillus sp. (especially on bindings) or other problem molds, but it's not actually mildew (Oidium-Erysiphe - powdery mildew, or Peronosporaceae - downy mildew).

Below in this article at we discuss this book mildew issue in more detail. Also see MOLD Distinction between "mold" and "mildew" is questioned & answered and be sure to review CLEANUP GUIDE- HOW TO GET RID OF MOLD for additional details.

Below at References (after the list of our related website links) we list book water disaster procedures, book and paper conservation and restoration articles, and cleaning and HEPA vacuum supply sources.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) or comments about how to deal with mold on books or other important papers or documents

Question/Comment: what causes rusty stains or foxing marks on books and paper ? Foxing definition, chemistry, causes, treatments or removal methods, and prevention

Are foxing marks on books and paper always caused by mould or are other factors also at work?

Also, I have a couple of books with shiny pages that have become sticky during a humid summer and have developed orange lines along the edges of some of the pages.

Is this a reaction of the acid in the books seeping through the cut edges or could mould be a factor? - Rachel 9/2/202

Reply: iron oxide, fungi and yeast associated with foxing on books and papers: causes, cures, prevention

Rachel,

Your surmise that more than mold is at work in the development of local discoloration or reddish-brown foxing marks on paper and books is correct in that at the core, foxing is caused by exposure of those materials to high humidity, and the brown stains characteristic of foxing marks are typically found to contain high levels of iron oxide (FeO) in one or more chemical forms. Paper chemistry as well as chemistry of inks and other materials comprising the book, paper, stamp, or other foxed document are also important components in the foxing problem. (Carter explains that the general yellowing of some paper products is distinct from the localized red-brown stains associated with foxing. [36][37])

Please see our detailed article that includes a more complete answer to your question, found at Details about foxing are at FOXING STAINS on books & papers.

Watch out: Tronson warns

There has been no definite cure for neutralising the mildew [properly, mold not mildew - Ed] spore, chemical use not only breaks down the paper cellulose but also reactivates the ink so not only do the fibres of the paper break down, after a while and the paper starts to disintegrate and the ink or what ever medium can be rubbed off!
...
Bleach treated or chemical treated papers on the other hand will always be subject to the foxing returning and eventual disintegration. [25]

Question/Comment: distinction between "mold" and "mildew" is questioned

As a book collector and once-upon-a-time mycologist I found your web site of interest.

However, I do not believe there would be uniform acceptance among professional mycologists of your distinction between "mold" and "mildew". The organisms involved are all fungi in the classical sense. Those attacking dead organic matter like cellulose are not all that different biologically from their relatives that may have a preference for the living cells of plants and animals.

The fact that some parasitic species may be facultative heterotrophs (feeding on non-living materials) supports this view. I believe your cause is best served by promoting the idea that the fungi, a diverse and highly successful breed, will exploit any environment where nutrients and moisture are available whether or not it is living or dead. Books and their bindings in a high humidity environment are sitting ducks.

One final point: since fungi and their spores and hyphae are ubiquitous in nature it should be recognized that there is little chance of getting rid of all of them by any practical means (HEPA filters included). Since fungi (including species that attack damp books) play such an important part in our ecosystem we would be unwise to eliminate them entirely. We can, however, slow them down. - Chris 9/7/2012

Reply: Mildew doesn't grow on books, nor on leather shoes, nor on wallpaper, nor on other indoor building surfaces, though lots of other mold genera/species might

Chris,

Thank you for the interesting comments about book mold, mildew, HEPA vacuuming, and the important role of the fungi in our environment. I'm grateful to read your opinion and want to emphasize that we welcome polite, informed discussion or debate about this or any other topic found at InspectApedia.com.

Indeed even among expert book restorers the term mildew is often used loosely and technically incorrectly to refer to the role of certain fungi or mold genera/species in the cause of foxing on books and papers. A few points need clarification: by no means do I suggest that mildew is not a fungus, as mildew is indeed a proper subset of the huge kingdom of fungi. But the fungi appearing on books are different genera/species from the two fungi properly named mildew. There are some important distinctions to be made.

Mildew doesn't grow on shoes, nor on paper, though many other mold genera/species can grow on these materials

I learned about the distinctive properties of mildew as a living plant pathogen among other members of the Fifth Kingdom from Dr. John Haines, my friend and mentor, when John was still serving as the NY State mycologist. Discussing some mold samples I'd brought along for us to examine, I mentioned that I'd just collected some white mildew from leather shoes found in a moldy home. Like many people I just bandied the word mildew about willy-nilly. John asked why I thought it might be mildew, allowed me to embarrass myself, and then kindly explained that mildew grows on plants, not shoes.

Perhaps it's technical nitpicking, but mildew a subset of "mold" that only grows on living plants. Mildews are a small group of fungi found among the Basidiomycota, Ustilaginales if I recall correctly, and any "mildew" if properly identified, will be either Oidium-Erysiphe or Powdery Mildew or Peronosporaceae or Downy Mildew. Mildew, then, has nothing to do with and won't be found growing on books nor on other building surfaces unless the item in the building is a live or recently-live plant.

The fungi identified as growing on or in paper materials included the following

In research on foxing stains (see FOXING STAINS on books & papers. ) experts have identified at least ten species of fungi and one yeast have been identified as growing on/in or "hosted by" paper, [16][17][17a][29]

In addition, when we add consideration of the different (from paper) materials used in book bindings, covers, etc., it is likely that there are additional mold genera/species that may be found growing on books. In our own field and lab experience, while there was some variation in mold genera/species present, the dominant fungus contamination found on the exterior of books in a moldy library basement was Aspergillus sp.

Indeed, a literature search confirms that among scholarly and research papers we researched for this article, not one authority detected the presence of either of the two types of mildew (Oidium-Erysiphe - powdery mildew, or Peronosporaceae - downy mildew) among the various fungi found growing on books, papers, photographs, stamps, or other paper based works. [1] op. seq. Fungal species commonly identified as found growing on or in books, papers, photographs, stamps, etc. include:

Aspergillus sp.
- Aspergillus melleus [brownish stains, visible microscopically]
- Aspergillus sclerotiorum [pale brown stains on paper, visible microscopically]
Cladosporyum sp. [Cladosporium sp. - ed.]
Cladosporyum sphaerospermum [pale brown stains on paper]
Penicillium sp. [at least 5 different species or strains]
- Penicillium purpurogenum [brownish-yellow stains; pale whitish stains, visible microscopically]
Pithomyces chartarum [often appearing black on surfaces, brown or dark brown stains visible microscopically]
Ulocladium alternarie
Yeast [species to be identified]

The fungi identified as mildew include these two groups

Below I include photos of Oidium or powdery mildew that I collected from a jasmine plant (below left) that was growing indoors (we moved it outside before this photo was taken) along with a photo of the same mildew from that plant under my lab microscope (below right).

What's wrong with misidentifying fungi types or genera/species

You make an important point, that fungi are very versatile and that many genera/species adapt well to growing on stuff found indoors, including books. On the other hand, if my "mold expert" insists on calling white or light colored molds on books or on other indoor building surfaces "mildew" it makes me nervous on several scores:

In some cases involving book, paper and photograph conservation and restoration, conservationists have devised treatments whose effectiveness has been tuned to (in their opinion) specific fungal genera/species.[25] [I'm uncertain of the role of that distinction and though I'm not a conservationist it appears to me that other factors such as the type of paper and paper fibers, the paper's condition, strength, etc. may be more critical.]
In some instances, especially such as building mold consultants who primarily provide mold tests and mold remediation advice, the expert doesn't know much about mold nor mycology so may not be very good at understanding building mold nor finding where problems actually are located. Such an expert's advice about what to do about indoor mold contamination may involve more opinion than accuracy
in real estate transactions as well as other cases where there are conflicts of interest, too often some parties will attempt to misdirect the attention of a building buyer or occupant of a moldy building with the "it's just a little mildew" argument, potentially putting future occupants at serious health risk as well as exposing the new owner to a very expensive surprise.

Why does the Mold / Mildew Distinction Matter? Implications for Building Testing

From one point of view, since the remedy for an indoor (or book) mold problem does not depend much on the mold genera or species, understanding mycology might not seem to make much difference in improving a moldy indoor building area. But that's not quite so. Having the luxury of my own forensic lab along with performing field investigations for many years, I have been able to make a wide study of which mold genera/species seem to best like different indoor building surfaces and materials.

I've enjoyed collecting mold samples from every single type of surface and material in very moldy homes, having cataloged (MOLD GROWTH on SURFACES, TABLE OF) and photographed quite a few, nearly 100 of which can be seen online at MOLD GROWTH ON SURFACES, PHOTOS.

This work has suggested that when building investigators or "mold experts" survey a building for mold contamination, a lot depends on where and how the sample is collected. For example, in pulling a tape sample of mold growth on a hollow-core luan door in a very moldy home we find completely different genera/species preferring the edge of the door (probably southern yellow pine wood) from that growing on the door surfaces (luan mahogany). If the investigator does not realize this, his/her report that claims to characterize what molds are present or potentially harmful in the building might be quite inaccurate.

Watch out: In a library of moldy books, if by careless language we informed building management that we thought the dominant mold present was just a bit of mildew (say Oidium) we would erroneously conclude that other than a possible allergic response or perhaps a problem for nearby houseplants, there was no health risk to building occupants. But in point of fact what I find on moldy library books is typically a potpourri of fungi dominated on book jackets by several species of Aspergillus - far more likely to present an IAQ and health hazard to occupants.

HEPA Vacuuming is Not a Mold Cure: the two key steps are remove the mold and fix the cause of mold growth

You are of course also completely correct that HEPA filtering of air is never a cure for mold problems on books or other indoor surfaces. Such cleaning is, however, an important step in mold remediation in general and in the cleaning of visibly moldy books and papers - a topic which we discuss in greater detail at Considerations When Preparing to Clean or Salvage Moldy Books or Papers. The effective cure for indoor mold problems involves two basic efforts:

Remove the problem mold - this means physically cleaning it off (some remaining stains may be harmless)
Find and fix the cause of high indoor moisture or leaks that caused the mold growth and fix those conditions

The reference to HEPA filtration that you may come across in reading about mold remediation in buildings typically involves either a HEPA filter on a machine used to create negative air pressure in the infected area in order to protect other building areas from cross contamination during the period of mold cleanup and repair work, or a HEPA filter used during dust cleaning in other building areas as a means of reducing indoor dust levels without just stirring up worse dust than before.

Why We Need Mold in the Environment

I also agree with and appreciate your observation that the fungi are a crucial part of our ecosystem - without them and their ability to break down cellulose (not just books, but leaves and dead wood) I doubt that their partner in cellulose decay (some bacteria) would alone be up to the job. Imagine the earth being buried in all of the dead trees, leaves, grass and similar stuff that had ever died since the Jurassic period because we didn't have the fungi to break that matter down!

Or on a smaller scale, imagine if Dr. Florey hadn't found P. notatum on an orange in the marketplace and hadn't hidden some in his coat during the development of the antibiotic Penicillin? And on a still smaller scale, we enjoy both blue cheese and Ustilago maydis (Huitlacoche or "corn smut") in various food preparations here in Mexico.

Nevertheless, as a book collector you probably will agree that we don't particularly need nor want mold on books nor on other important papers or documents, a point of view that quite a few experts have made amply clear. [1][2][3][4][5][6][7][8]9][10][11][12][14]

Thank you again for the discussion, we'd be glad to hear further from you in this matter, particularly I'd like to know more about foxing on books and papers.

See these articles about mildew

MILDEW in BUILDINGS ?
MILDEW ERRORS - MOLD PHOTOS
MILDEW REMOVAL & PREVENTION

Question: what's the best way to remove mold from a book?

I realize that you generally restore items for people, but I'm in a heck of a bind and am hoping that you can advise me. I have a book with green mold on the paper and need to remove the stain as much as possible. As it is to be for Christmas, I can't let it go the way it is. Is there any truth at all to ethyl alcohol or a diluted bleach solution being effective? I would be very careful not to wet the paper too much... Any information would be sincerely appreciated as I really am in a tough spot. Thanks in advance for any insight, - S.J. 12/15/12

Reply:

SJ, in addition to the article above on book mold, check the expert citations in the references below, and also take a look at the cleaning suggestions also found for a different staining material found in foxing on books and papers - see FOXING STAINS on books & papers

...

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Technical Reviewers & References

Related Topics, found near the top of this page suggest articles closely related to this one.

American Institute for Conservation of Art and Historic Artifacts (AIC), 1717 K Street NW, Suite 200, Washington, DC 20006 Phone 202-452-9545 Website: http:/aic.stanford.edu/
[1] Book Conservation, Department of Preservation & Collection Maintenance, Cornell University Library, Website: http://www.library.cornell.edu/preservation/operations/bookconservation.html - quoting:
Conservation staff will advise and assist the public with regard to water, mold or insect damage and offer advice on storage and environment. The book conservation unit is a resource for libraries, organizations, and individuals outside Cornell. The following book preservation publications are available to the public at the Cornell University Library website: http://www.library.cornell.edu/preservation/publications/index.html
- Air Drying of Wet Books, Cornell University pamphlet, gives critical advice on how to handle books that have been wet. Original source: http://www.library.cornell.edu/preservation/publications/documents/AirDryingofWetBooks.pdf
- Disaster Response Plan, Cornell University Library, Disaster Subcommittee, Department of Preservation and Collection Maintenance, Security and Library Safety Working Group, Cornell University Library, Ithaca, NY 14583, Rev. July 2006.
  Includes advice on preserving books following a disaster, storm, water, etc. including book drying and book cleaning methods following a water or flood disaster.
- Pigment Particle & Fiber Atlas for Paper Conservators, Claire McBride, Getty Trust Postgraduate Fellow 2002, see http://www.library.cornell.edu/preservation/publications/mcbride.html [draft, incomplete, unedited] includes pigment atlases for Eastern pigments and fibers, Western pigments and fibers, and combined sources.
- Preserving Books in Your Home Library, Cornell University Library, original source: http://www.library.cornell.edu/preservation/publications/PreservingBooks.pdf
[2] Book Conservation Internship Program, U.S. Library of Congress, see http://www.loc.gov/preserv/int_book.html
Canadian Conservation Institute (CCI), 1030 Innes Road, Ottawa ON K1A 0M5, Canada, Tel: 613-998-3721, Website: http://www.cci-icc.gc.ca/html/
Conservation on Line (CoOL), http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/
[3] Frost, Gary, Teaching Book Conservation Methods Within a Training Program, The Book and Paper Group Annual, Vol. Five 1986, Book & Paper Specialty Group, AIC, Chicago 1986. Gary Frost, Asst. Professor, School of Library Service, Columbia University. Web-search 02/23/2011, original source: http://cool.conservation-us.org/coolaic/sg/bpg/annual/v05/bp05-13.html
[4] Godsey, Joyce, Book Repair for Booksellers: A Guide for Booksellers offering practical advice on book repair, CreateSpace (April 22, 2009), ISBN-10: 1442137320, ISBN-13: 978-1442137325 [author is a bookseller trained in book conservation and repair].
[5] Greenfield, Jane, The Care of Fine Books, Skyhorse Publishing; Reprint edition (September 1, 2007), ISBN-10: 1602390789, ISBN-13: 978-1602390782. Quoting from Amazon.com product description:
Jane Greenfield, advisor in rare book conservation at Yale University Library, is a leading authority on preservation and repair. After attending the New York School of Applied Design, she operated her own bindery for several years, enabling her to write from an unusual level of both education and experience. Here she offers a concise yet thorough discussion of book construction, storage, handling, cleaning, and repair, as well as essential expert advice on how to properly store and handle books of value in order to protect them from fire, flood, theft, and common wear and tear. With a new introduction by bestselling author Nicholas A. Basbanes, this is an indispensable volume for bibliophiles of every description.
[6] Guild of Book Workers, 521 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10175-0038, National Organization for all the Book Arts, Website: http://guildofbookworkers.org/
Heritage Preservation (HP), 1012 14th Street, NW Suite 1200, Washington, DC 20005, Tel: 202-233-0800, Website: http://www.heritagepreservation.org/
[7] Johnson, Arthur W., The Practical Guide to Book Repair and Conservation, [may not be available]
[8] Lavender, Kenneth, Book Repair: A How-to-Do-It Manual (How-to-do-It Manuals for Libraries, No. 107) (How to Do It Manuals for Librarians), Neal-Schuman Publishers; 2 Sub edition (February 1, 2001), ISBN-10: 1555704085, ISBN-13: 978-1555704087 - Quoting:
Lavender's highly acclaimed guide has been completely revised and expanded to offer up-to-date help. Covering both basic book repair techniques and sound conservation practices, this completely revised step-by-step manual offers illustrated sections on cleaning, mending, hinge and spine repair, strengthening paperbacks, and more. Completely new chapters cover: wet and water-damaged books; mold and mildew; repair of book linings and pamphlet bindings; using acid-free materials to repair damaged books; lining paper objects; affordable repair tools and supplies and much more. A full discussion of when and how to make repairs, and alternative conservation practices that enable each librarian to develop procedures appropriate to his or her library are also provided. Here is the practical guidance you need to successfully perform archivally-sound repairs - even on a limited budget.
[9] McQueen, Sharon, Latorraca, Ellen, Warmbold, Richard, In-House Bookbinding and Repair, The Scarecrow Press, Inc. (September 26, 2005, ISBN-10: 0810852241, ISBN-13: 978-0810852242, Quoting:
In-House Bookbinding and Repair is a working document that contains information on setting up both a basic bookbindery and repair lab (i.e. the design, equipment, tools, and supplies needed) and instructions on rebinding and repairing cloth-bound books. Highly illustrated to greater enhance its usefulness, this manual also covers various aspects of book repair and conservation, and contains appendixes on manufacturers and suppliers of materials and products discussed in the text, an extensive Glossary of terms, a separate section on World Wide Web Resources, and a helpful bibliography. This manual will prove valuable to libraries of all sizes and locations.
National Park Service (NPS), Conserve-O-Gram [museum management series], Website: http://www.cr.nps.gov/
NEDCC, "Preservation of Library & Archival Materials: A Manual", Northeast Document Conservation Center (NEDCC), 100 Brickstone Square, Andover, MA 01810-1494, Tel: 978-475-6021 Website: http://nedcc.org/
[10] Rosenberg, Margot, Marcowitz, Bern, The Care and Feeding of Books Old and New, St. Martin's Griffin (March 1, 2004), ISBN-10: 0312326033, ISBN-13: 978-0312326036. [Authors are owners of Manhattan's Dog Lovers' Bookshop]
[11] Schecter, Abraham A., Basic Book Repair Methods,
[12] Swifter Sweeper Dry Sweeping Cloths, Unscented, [at Amazon, also at grocery stores, cleaning suppliers] [ Note: Amazon pays us a small pittance when items are purchased through the link above - Ed.]
[13] HEPA Vacuum Cleaners, HEPA-Rated [at Amazon.com - Note: Amazon pays us a small commission on purchases through this store]
- C-Backpack HEPA 10 Q Vacuum Cleaner - HEPA (recommended for professional and large project book and library cleanup projects)
- Dustless Technologies 6-gallon HEPA Vacuum Cleaner (small shop vac size)
- Eureka 2694F Pet Lover Mighty Mite (floor canister - may be suitable for book cleaning)
- Eureka 4870MZ Boss Smart-Vac Upright HEPA Vacuum Cleaner (upright)
- Hoover Platinum Upright Lightweight Vacuum Cleaner - HEPA (upright)
- Rigid WD1450 14-BGallon 6-HP Wet/Dry Vac - HEPA (shop vac size), may be too powerful?
- Sunpentown V-8506 Bagless Upright Vacuum Cleaner (upright)
[14] Verheyen, Peter D., Basic Paper Treatments for Printed Book Materials, presentation, Guild of Book Workers 9th Anniv. Seminar, Portland OR, 1989, web search 02/23/2011, original source: http://www.philobiblon.com/gbwarticle/gbwjournalarticle.htm Quoting:
Since these presentations and the synopses that later appeared in the GBW Newsletter, there has been some discussion. The presentations and these articles are not to be construed as a "how to" of basic paper conservation but rather as an introduction for those with interest but little experience. For the more experienced, they present the methods of the individual conservator for dealing with common problems. None of these methods is the only way to carry out a specific treatment. Each project has its own challenges and no two are alike. It is therefore important to continue to build our knowledge through both reading and the lessons of experience.
[15] Thanks to reader Mike Olsen for discussing the problem of how a lab can determine whether or not mold in a test sample is active or inactive - June 2010
[16] Zotti (2011): M. Zotti, A. Ferroni, P. Calvini, "Mycological and FTIR analysis of biotic foxing on paper substrates", International Biodeterioration & Biodegradation Volume 65, Issue 4, July 2011, Pages 569–578, [copy on file as Zotti_2011.pdf]
Abstract The small rusty stains (foxing) frequently found on historic paper documents, books, and prints have generally been analysed in the past by optical microscope through their morphochromatic appearance under visible light and UV radiation. Despite increased research efforts with more sophisticated techniques (mainly SEM and XRF), the biotic or even chemical origin of these stains remains unclear. The purpose of this paper is to verify to what extent a simple technique such as FTIR-ATR spectroscopy can be utilised for a clearer understanding of the controversial nature of foxing. Since this technique is sensitive to several organic chemical groups that are in common with both fungi and gelatine-sized ancient paper, some modern cardboards stained by biotic foxing have been selected for the analyses. The results clearly show the importance of FTIR and mycological analyses for the identification of residual microfungal agents, together with the by-products of their activity on paper substrates. Keywords: Archaeometry; Foxing; Moulds; Fungi; Paper biodeterioration; Paper composition. Corresponding author. Tel.: +39 0103099378; fax: +39 0102099377. Email: milla@klaatu.com.dist.unige.it
[17] Zotti (2008): Zotti, Mirca,Ferroni, Alice, Calvini, Paolo, "Inhibition Properties of Simple Fungistatic Compounds on Fungi Isolated from Foxing Spots", Restaurator [Restaurator. International Journal for the Preservation of Library and Archival Material] Volume 28, Issue 3, Pages 201–217, ISSN (Print) 0034-5806, DOI: 10.1515/REST.2007.201, April 2008, online publication, Summary:
Only few solvents and chemical compounds are employable for the reduction of acidity and fungi in aged paper documents. In this study, we tested the fungistatic properties of calcium propionate (already proposed as deacidificant) either in aqueous or ethanolic solution. Further, we compared the effect of this treatment with that of a commercially available fungistatic spray based on 4-hydroxybenzoate and propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate. One set of tests was performed on fungi isolated from foxed old paper samples. Another was performed on a sheet of glass that had recently covered a cardboard backing in a frame and that showed a one-to-one correspondence between the spawn on the glass and the foxing stains on cardboard. Ten species representative of filamentous fungi genera and one yeast form were identified. Of the fungal species, the one most frequently represented was Penicillium, with 5 different strains, while for each of the other genera there was only one species. The antifungal chemicals investigated presented different levels of effectiveness in inhibiting micro-organism growth: the results of a number of tests carried out on strains cultured in suitable media demonstrate that saturated solutions (3.5 g/L) of calcium propionate in ethanol significantly inhibit the fungal growing.
[17a] Zotti (2008): M. Zotti, A. Ferroni, P. Calvini, Microfungal biodeterioration of historic paper: preliminary FTIR and microbiological analyses International Biodeterioration and Biodegradation, 62 (2008), pp. 186–194
[17b] Zotti (2007): Zotti, M., Ferroni, A., Calvini, P., 2007. Foxing biologico: diagnostica multidisciplinare. In: Atti del V Congresso Nazionale IGIIC e Lo stato dell’Arte e Cremona, 11e13 Ottobre 2007. Nardini Ed, Firenze, pp. 267e272.
[18] Book Repair Guide, Bookcraft®, supplier of book, paper & photograph conservation and restoration supplies; archival storage advice, Tel. 1-800-448-6160 Website: www.gaylord.com, retrieved 9/1/12, original site http://www.gaylord.com/images/Bookcraft_BookRepairGuide.pdf, [copy on file as Bookcraft_BookRepairGuide.pdf] and sources recommended by Gaylord:
- [19] Banks, Paul N. & Pilette, Roberta, Eds., Preservation Issues and Planning, Chicago and London: American Library Association, 2000
- [20] Lavender, Kenneth and Stockton, Scott. Book Repair: A How-To-Do-It Manual, for School and Public Libraries. 2nd ed. New York: Neal Schuman, 2001
- [21] Lull, William P. with Banks, Paul N. Conservation Environment Guidelines for Libraries and Archives. Ottawa: Canadian Council of Archives, 1995, from the Canadian Council of Archives, 3444 Wellington St., Room 1009, Ottawa, Canada K1A 0N3
- [22] Ogden, Sherelyn, Editor. Preservation of Library & Archival Materials: A Manual. 3rd ed. Andover, MA: Northeast Document Conservation Center, 1999 (technical leaflets available online at www.nedcc.org)
- [23] Preservation of Library & Archival Materials: A Manual. 3rd ed. Andover, MA, Northeast Document Conservation Center, 1999
- [24] Young, Laura. Bookbinding & Conservation by Hand. Reprint edition. Newark, Delaware: Oak Knoll Press, 1995
[25] Tronson, Paul, "Removing Foxing and Mildew", Bookbinding & Royal Bindings-Commissions Accepted-Worldwide, Canada, Email: paul@periodfinebindings.com, Tel: +1 250 580 1547, retrieved 9/11/12, original source: http://periodfinebindings.typepad.com/removing_foxing_and_milde/ [copy on file as Removing_Foxing_Tronson.pdf]
[26] Coleman, M.H.; Baynes-Cope, A.D.; Agabeg, R.C., "Foxing", Chemistry and industry, Vol. 7, February 15, 1969, p. 197, three letters to the editor, quoting:
These three letters to the editor discuss removal of foxing stains from philatelic materials. Coleman recommends, in order of increasing severity, immersion in solutions of 1) 0.25% washing soda, 2) 2% chloramine T, 3) 2% sodium chlorite with 2.5% formalin, or 4) 5% potassium permanganate followed by 2% oxalic acid. Paper requires re-sizing. Baynes - Cope recommends early detection by ultra violet (UV) light, and removal by oxidative bleaching in hypochlorites. Test for color sensitive materials (eg. manuscript inks) or gums. Prevent foxing (microbiological attack) by maintaining humidity (RH) at 50-60% with good ventilation (air circulation), or interleaving pages with paper impregnated with orthophenyl phenol fungicide or its' sodium salt. Agabeg describes treatment of stamps using 1-5% chloramine T. Color sensitivity should be tested using a blank. Loss of original gum will reduce a stamp's value. This article is a reference for the conservation of library, archival and philatelic materials, and works of art (eg. prints, drawings) on paper.
[27] E. Sarantopoulou [Email: esarant@eie.gr] , S. Kobe,Z. Kollia, A.C. Cefalas, "Removing foxing stains from old paper at 157 nm", Applied Surface Science, Volumes 208–209, 15 March 2003, Pages 311–316, Physics and Chemistry of Advanced Laser Materials Processing,
Abstract: Using a molecular fluorine laser at 157 nm foxing stains were removed successfully from a 16th century old paper. Laser cleaning of stains and foxing from old paper manuscripts is far more effective at 157 nm in comparison to different wavelengths without leaving any yellowish after-effect on the paper. This is because at 157 nm illumination of old paper, complete bond breaking of all the organic molecules of the paper is taking place. Mass spectroscopy at 157 nm and for moderate laser intensities up to 1 mJ/cm2 of old paper suffering from foxing indicate organic matter disintegration to small photofragments atomic, diatomic or triatomic, which are flying apart with supersonic speed. In addition high spatial resolution energy dispersive X-ray system (EDXS) analysis over the effected areas indicate the presence of iron, suggesting that biological activity is taking place preferentially in paper areas containing iron.
[28] S. Sequeira, E-mail: , E.J. Cabritab, M.F. Macedoc, "Antifungals on paper conservation: An overview", International Biodeterioration & Biodegradation Volume 74, October 2012, Pages 67–86,
Abstract & Highlights: Since its invention, paper has become one of the main carriers of our cultural, scientific, political, economic and historical information. Given the importance of this material, its preservation is a matter of great interest. Paper can be deteriorated due to physical, chemical and biological agents. Within microorganisms, fungi are the major paper biodeteriogens. Throughout history, several methods have been used to prevent and stop fungal deterioration on paper based materials. In this work we present a review of the main chemical and physical methods used to avoid fungal paper biodeterioration until nowadays and also of some new approaches tested recently. The advantages and disadvantages of these methods are discussed as well as their health effects. Studies regarding antifungal compositions, methods of application, performance and effects on the treated materials are also presented with the aim of providing a clear set of conclusions on the topic.
The use of antifungals on paper conservation is reviewed. Performance and effects on the treated materials of each antifungal method are discussed. The advantages and disadvantages of the antifungal methods are compared. Composition, methods of application and health effects are described. Two tables summarizing the results are presented.
[29] Sabrina Manente Email: manente@unive.it, Anna Micheluz, Renzo Ganzerla, Giampietro Ravagnan, Andrea Gambaro, "Chemical and biological characterization of paper: A case study using a proposed methodological approach", International Biodeterioration & Biodegradation, Volume 74, October 2012, Pages 99–108,
Abstract: One of the most important causes of paper degradation is biodeterioration, caused especially by fungi and bacteria under certain environmental conditions. This study was designed to check the presence of cellulolytic microorganisms on documents from the 19th century, and to verify any biodeterioration that may have occurred by using a series of predominantly non-invasive analyses in order to preserve their integrity. For the characterization of paper documents various non-destructive micro-analyses were performed in succession, so as to deepen our knowledge of these step by step and thus provide a logical approach for the general study of this type of artifact. The samples were analyzed by using light microscopy, histochemical tests, pH analysis, SEM–EDS observations, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy in ATR, and GC–MS. Organic cultures were also made with the samples taken from the surfaces of the documents; in particular, four fungal species, Aspergillus sp., Penicillium sp., Cladosporium sp., and Ulocladium alternarie, have been identified, as well as the presence of bacteria and dust mites. Finally, relations/correlations between the results of chemical and biological analyses are discussed.
Highlights: The biodeterioration of paper is caused especially by cellulolytic fungi and bacteria. Characterization of paper documents with non-destructive micro analyses. SEM–EDS, FT-IR in ATR, GC–MS and organic cultures. Isolated: Aspergillus sp., Penicillium sp., Cladosporyum sp., Ulocladium alternarie.
[30] High Definition Infra Red, The Truth About What You Thought You Knew, FLIR Systems, Inc., 27700 SW Parkway Ave., Wilsonville OR 97070, USA, Tel: 800-727-3547, Website: www.FLIR.com, retrieved 9/11/12, original source: http://gs.flir.com/uploads/file/white-papers/hd-infrared.pdf [copy on file as FLIR_hd-infrared.pdf]
[31] Arai, H., 1984. Microbiological studies on the conservation of paper and related cultural properties: Part 1, isolation of fungi from the foxing on paper. Science for Conservation 23, 33e40.
[32] Arai, H., 1987. On the foxing-causing fungi. Preprints of the ICOM Committee for Conservation.
[33] Arai, H., 2000. Foxing caused by fungi: twenty five years of study. International Biodeterioration and Biodegradation 46, 181e188.
[34] Arai, H., Nemoto, C., Matsui, N., Matsumura, N., Murakita, H., 1989. Microbiological studies on the conservation of paper and related cultural properties: Part 8, on the components found in foxing. Science for Conservation 28, 7e15.
[35] Meynell, Guy, "Notes on Foxing, Chlorine Dioxide Bleaching and Pigments", Paper conservator, ISSN 0309-4227, Vol 4, No. 1, 01/01/1979 p. 30
[36] Henry A. Carter, The Chemistry of Paper Preservation: Part 1. The Aging of Paper and Conservation Techniques, Journal of Chemical Education 1996 73 (5), p 417
Abstract: This study provides an introduction to the problem of the aging of paper and the conservation techniques that are currently being employed in paper preservation. The chemical reactions that are responsible for the aging of paper are discussed with the conclusion that acid-catalyzed hydrolysis is the predominant mechanism for cellulose degradation and strength loss. A description and the chemistry of a number of mass deacidification methods are presented. The more viable deacidification methods include the DEZ, Wei T'o, FMC, Bookkeeper, Viennese, Book Preservation Associates, Sable and the Batelle processes. A summary of the literature on the evaluations of these processes is presented, and the benefits and limitations of the mass deacidification methods are discussed. Other conservation techniques such as paper strengthening, conservation bleaching, and pest control are briefly introduced, followed by an introduction to alkaline papermaking.
[37] Henry A. Carter, The Chemistry of Paper Preservation: Part 2. The Yellowing of Paper and Conservation Bleaching, J. Chem. Educ., 1996, 73 (11), p 1068 DOI: 10.1021/ed073p1068, November 1, 1996
Abstract: The discoloration of paper on aging is of interest to the archival community and also to the pulp and paper industry where new and improved mechanical pulps are being developed. The yellowing of paper on aging can be attributed to the presence of chromophores found in some of the products formed from the degradation of one or more components of paper. This study identifies the nature of the chromophores found in cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin. The photooxidation of lignin-containing papers and the mechanism for photoyellowing are discussed. This is followed by a description of the basic principles of conservation bleaching which involves chemically treating papers in order to remove unwanted discoloration or stains. The washing of paper and the use of oxidizing and reducing bleaches are presented. The discussion on oxidizing bleaches includes hydrogen peroxide, alkaline hypochlorite, chlorine dioxide and sunlight. The chemistry of reducing bleaches focuses on dithionites and borohydrides.
[38] Henry A. Carter, The Chemistry of Paper Preservation Part 3. The Strengthening of Paper, Journal of Chemical Education 1996 73 (12), p 1160
Abstract: The following study describes the parylene and graft copolymerization processes that have been developed to strengthen fragile or brittle paper artifacts. Theparylene process involves vaporizing di-para-xylylene at 150o - 250 oC and splitting the dimeric parylene gas at 650o - 690 oC to mono-para-xylylene. The monomer vapor collides with the surface of the paper sample at room temperature and penetrates the cellulose fibers. Polymerization of the monomeric units to poly- para-xylylenes then occurs with the deposition of a thin uniform film. This parylene film forms mechanical links with broken fibers and strengthening occurs. The graft copolymerization (British Library) method involves treating papers with gaseous monomeric ethyl acrylate and methyl methacrylate, and initiating copolymerization by irradiating the papers with low intensity gamma rays. Webs of long-chained polymers are deposited on and between the cellulose fibers thereby strengthening the papers. The chemistry as well as modifications to both processes are discussed.
[39] Henry A. Carter, The Chemistry of Paper Preservation: Part 4. Alkaline Paper, Journal of Chemical Education1997 74 (5), 508
Abstract: The inherent instability of old papers is largely due to the presence of acids which catalyze the hydrolytic degradation of cellulose. The use of alkaline paper can minimize the problem of acidity for new papers. This study focuses on the chemistry involved in the sizing of both acid and alkaline papers and the types of fillers used. The waterproofing agent that is used in acid paper is alum-precipitated rosin size, which tends to spread and create a hydrophobic surfaces over the cellulose fibers. Alkaline paper uses the synthetic sizing agents, alkyl ketene dimers(AKD) and alkyl succinic anhydrides (ASA). These alkaline sizing agents become chemically bound to the cellulose fibers with hydrophobic chains pointing outward, producing a water repellent surface. The sizing reactions take place in a neutral-to-alkaline medium. Calcium carbonate can then be used as a filler to replace expensive titanium dioxide. Finally, the advantages and potential problems in alkaline paper making are discussed.
[40] Henry A. Carter, The Chemistry of Paper Preservation. Part 5. Permanent Paper Journal of Chemical Education 2007 84 (12), 1937
Abstract: The acid-catalyzed hydrolysis of cellulose accounts for the deterioration of paper in library books and other written records. To combat this threat to our written heritage, new permanent papers have been developed that are relatively chemically stable and undergo a very slow rate of deterioration. Many of these new papers are manufactured from mechanical pulps that contain large amounts of lignin, and are stable when a calcium carbonate buffer is present. Based on the performance involving accelerated aging of the papers, the inclusion of lignin has been accepted in the standards for permanent paper by Canada and Germany, providing that a calcium carbonate buffer is present. Other countries are still reluctant to make the change in standards to include lignin. Research needs to be done to define optical properties and their requirements for the standards. The applications of the chemistry of paper preservation to teaching are also discussed.

Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair

Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.

The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.

Or choose the The Home Reference eBook for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAEHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.

Building inspection education & report writing systems from Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd

Carson Dunlop, Associates, Toronto, have provided us with (and we recommend) Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates' Technical Reference Guide to manufacturer's model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment
Special Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Technical Reference Guide purchased as a single order. Just enter INSPECTATRG in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.
Environmental Health & Investigation Bibliography - our technical library on indoor air quality inspection, testing, laboratory procedures, forensic microscopy, etc.
Adkins and Adkins Dictionary of Roman Religion discusses Robigus, the Roman god of crop protection and the legendary progenitor of wheat rust fungus.
Kansas State University, department of plant pathology, extension plant pathology web page on wheat rust fungus: see http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/path-ext/factSheets/Wheat/Wheat%20Leaf%20Rust.asp
"A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home", U.S. Environmental Protection Agency US EPA - includes basic advice for building owners, occupants, and mold cleanup operations. See http://www.epa.gov/mold/moldguide.htm
US EPA - Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Building [Copy on file at /sickhouse/EPA_Mold_Remediation_in_Schools.pdf ] - US EPA
US EPA - Una Breva Guia a Moho - Hongo [Copy on file as /sickhouse/EPA_Moho_Guia_sp.pdf - en Espanol
"A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home", U.S. Environmental Protection Agency US EPA - includes basic advice for building owners, occupants, and mold cleanup operations. See http://www.epa.gov/mold/moldguide.htm
"Disease Prevention Program for Certain Vegetable Crops," David B. Langston, Jr., Extension Plant Pathologist - Vegetables, University of Georgia (PDF document) original source: www.reeis.usda.gov/web/crisprojectpages/209797.html
"Disease Prevention in Home Vegetable Gardens," Patricia Donald, Department of Plant Microbiology and Pathology, Lewis Jett
Department of Horticulture, University of Missouri Extension - extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=G6202
"Management of Powdery Mildew, Leveillula taurica, in Greenhouse Peppers," Ministry of Agriculture and Lands, British Columbia - Original source: www.agf.gov.bc.ca/cropprot/peppermildew.htm
Fifth Kingdom, Bryce Kendrick, ISBN13: 9781585100224, is available from the InspectAPedia online bookstore - we recommend the CD-ROM version of this book. This 3rd/edition is a compact but comprehensive encyclopedia of all things mycological. Every aspect of the fungi, from aflatoxin to zppspores, with an accessible blend of verve and wit. The 24 chapters are filled with up-to-date information of classification, yeast, lichens, spore dispersal, allergies, ecology, genetics, plant pathology, predatory fungi, biological control, mutualistic symbioses with animals and plants, fungi as food, food spoilage and mycotoxins.
Fungi, Identifying Filamentous, A Clinical Laboratory Handbook, Guy St-
US EPA: Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Building [Copy on file at /sickhouse/EPA_Mold_Remediation_in_Schools.pdf ] - US EPA
Mycology, Fundamentals of Diagnostic, Fran Fisher, Norma B. Cook, W.B. Saunders Co. 1998, ISBN 0-7216-5006-6 (buy this book at Amazon)
...


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