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InspectAPedia ® Home HEATING SYSTEMS AFUE DEFINITION, RATINGS AGE of CHIMNEYS & FIREPLACES AGE of AIR CONDITIONERS & HEAT PUMPS AGE of HEATERS, BOILERS, FURNACES AIR CONDITIONING & HEAT PUMP SYSTEMS AIR FILTERS for HVAC SYSTEMS AIR HANDLER / BLOWER UNITS AIRBOUND HEAT SYSTEM REPAIRS ANODES & DIP TUBES on WATER HEATERS ANTIFREEZE for BOILERS ANTI SCALD VALVES APPLIANCE EFFICIENCY RATINGS ASBESTOS IDENTIFICATION IN buildings BACKDRAFTING HEATING EQUIPMENT BACKFLOW PREVENTER VALVE, HEATING SYS BACKFLOW PREVENTER, HEATER WATER FEEDER BACKUP HEAT for HEAT PUMPS BANGING HEATING PIPES RADIATORS BAROMETRIC DAMPERS BASEBOARD HEAT BIOGAS PRODUCTION & USE BLEVE EXPLOSIONS BLOWER FAN CONTINUOUS OPERATION BLOWER FAN OPERATION & TESTING BLUE vs YELLOW COMBUSTION FLAMES BLUERAY Recall BOILERS, HEATING BOILER CHEMICAL TREATMENTS BOILER COMPONENTS & PARTS BOILER CONTROLS & SWITCHES BOILER LEAKS CORROSION STAINS BOILER LEAKS, HOW TO LOCATE BOILER NOISE SMOKE ODORS BOILER OPERATING PROBLEMS BOILER OPERATION DETAILS BOILER PRESSURE & TEMPERATURE SETTINGS BOOKSTORE - InspectAPedia BTU USAGE MONITORS BUILDING SAFETY HAZARDS GUIDE CAPACITORS for HARD STARTING MOTORS CARBON DIOXIDE - CO2 CARBON MONOXIDE - CO CHEMICAL TREATMENTS for BOILERS CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR CHIMNEYS & Flues - Asbestos Transite Pipe CIRCULATOR PUMPS & RELAYS COOL OFF HEAT, Thermostat Switch COMBUSTION AIR COMBUSTION AIR for TIGHT buildings COMBUSTION GASES & PARTICLE HAZARDS COMBUSTION PRODUCTS & IAQ COMPLETE COMBUSTION, Stoichiometric CREOSOTE FIRE HAZARDS CONDENSING BOILERS/FURNACES CONDENSING BOILERS/FURNACES DAMAGE CONVECTOR HEATERS - HYDRONIC COILS DEFINITION of Heating & Cooling Terms DEFINITIONS of ELECTRICAL TERMS DEFINITIONS: OIL PIPING CONTROLS DEHUMIDIFICATION PROBLEMS DIAGNOSE & FIX AIR CONDITIONER / HEAT PUMP DIAGNOSE & FIX HEATING PROBLEMS-BOILER DIAGNOSE & FIX HEATING PROBLEMS-FURNACE DIRECT VENTS / SIDE WALL VENTS DIRECTORY of OIL TANK EXPERTS DRAFT HOODS - gas fired DRAFT MEASUREMENT, CHIMNEYS & FLUES DRAFT REGULATORS, DAMPERS, BOOSTERS DUCT SYSTEM & DUCT DEFECTS DUST, HVAC CONTAMINATION STUDY DUST SAMPLING PROCEDURE ELECTRIC HEAT, DIAGNOSIS, REPAIR ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH ELECTRICAL POWER SWITCH FOR HEAT FAN, AIR HANDLER BLOWER UNIT FAN AUTO ON Thermostat Switch FAN, COMPRESSOR/CONDENSER UNIT FAN CONVECTOR HEATERS - HYDRONIC COILS FAN LIMIT SWITCH FAN NOISES FILTERS, AIR for HVAC SYSTEMS FILTERS, OIL on HEATING EQUIPMENT FIRE SAFETY CONTROLS FIREPLACES & HEARTHS FLAME COLOR, BLUE vs YELLOW COMBUSTION FLOODED HEATING EQUIPMENT REPAIR FLUE SIZE SPECIFICATIONS FLUE VENT CONNECTORS FREEZE-PROOF A BUILDING FUEL OIL TYPES & CHARACTERISTICS FUEL UNIT, HEATING OIL PUMPS FURNACES, HEATING FURNACE CONTROLS & SWITCHES FURNACE HEAT EXCHANGER LEAKS FURNACE OPERATION DETAILS FURNACE OPERATING TEMPERATURES GALVANIC SCALE & METAL CORROSION GAS BURNER Flame & Noise Defects GAS FIRED WATER HEATERS GAS PIPING, VALVES, CONTROLS GAUGES ON HEATING EQUIPMENT GEOTHERMAL HEATING SYSTEMS HEAT EXCHANGER LEAK TEST HEAT LOSS in BUILDINGS HEAT LOSS DETECTION TOOLS HEAT LOSS INDICATORS HEAT LOSS PREVENTION PRIORITIES HEAT LOSS R U & K VALUE CALCULATION HEAT PUMPS, DIAGNOSIS, REPAIR HEAT TAPES & CABLES on Roofs for Ice Dams HEATING COST FUEL & BTU Cost Table HEATING COST SAVINGS METHODS HEATING LOSS DIAGNOSIS-BOILERS HEATING LOSS DIAGNOSIS-FURNACES HEATING OIL CLOUD WAX GEL POINT HEATING OIL EXPOSURE HAZARDS, LIMITS HEATING OIL - OLD, USEABLE? 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WATER HEATER NOISES WATER HEATER SCALE - De-Liming Procedure WATER HEATER SCALE PREVENTION WATER SOFTENERS & CONDITIONERS WINTERIZE A BUILDING WOOD, COAL STOVES & FIREPLACES WOOD STOVE SAFETY ZONE DAMPERS ZONE VALVES More Information |
Guide to TP valves: how to install, inspect, troubleshoot, repair pressure / temperature relief valves or straight pressure relief valves used on heating boilers, steam boilers, water heaters, and even on water pressure tanks. This article explains what TP or pressure relief safety valves are, why they are needed, how they work, and what goes wrong. We describe how to test (or when not to test) relief valves, how to know that this important safety device is in trouble, including by simple visual inspection, and we answer just about any question about these important safety devices. Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman. A Guide to Heating Boiler Temperature & Pressure Relief Valves, Inspection, Defects, Testing, Repair
At RELIEF VALVES - Water Heaters we discuss temperature and pressure relief valves used on residential water heaters. Pressure relief valves (that sense pressure only, not temperature) are also required on pressurized tanks such as water tanks in buildings. Building water tank pressure relief valves are discussed at WATER PUMP SAFETY. At HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE we discuss how we measure water pressure and how temperature changes affect water pressure in a closed water tank or heating boiler. Lots of controls are installed on modern hot water and steam heating boilers and many of them are principally concerned with safety. The combination of these devices provide a tremendous margin of safety on home and commercial heating boilers, as evidenced by the rarity with which we read in modern times of boiler explosions. Before these devices were in common use, and even today if the devices are improperly installed, poorly maintained, or damaged, the heating systems they are supposed to protect are in fact un-protected. A defective relief valve is a latent safety hazard in that the valve does not by itself cause a boiler to explode, but it may fail to protect against that event should other dangerous conditions causing over temperature or over pressure arise in a heating boiler or water heater. At HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE we discuss how we measure water pressure and how temperature changes affect water pressure in a closed water heater tank or heating boiler. Missing Relief Valve Extension Discharge Tube is a Safety Hazard
Leaking or Previously Leaking Pressure/Temperature Relief Valves are DangerousRelief Valves Connected to Shutoff Valves or Piped to Hidden Locations are UnsafeOld Heating Boilers (steam or hot water) may have No Relief Valve at All - Check the AtticList of Common Boiler Temperature/Pressure Relief Valve DefectsOur photographs below show an older type of pressure relief valve used on hot water heating systems. Our photo at below left shows a bronze-colored pressure reducer, followed by a red pressure relief valve. That valve is unsafe because of the drain valve installed at its outlet pipe. Our second relief valve photograph (below right, contributed by home inspector Ron Wells) shows the same combination of equipment with the pressure reducing automatic water feeder valve located to the right of the pressure relief valve. Installed in the proper order, the pressure reducer/water feeder is installed closest to the water supply source and the pressure relief valve follows the pressure reducer/water feeder and so is installed between that device and the heating boiler.
This type of relief valve responds only to water pressure and may be located at some distance from the heating boiler itself. Watch out: this older equipment does not provide the same protection as a pressure/temperature relief valve. Checklist of Temperature/Pressure Relief Valve Problems & Safety HazardsHere is a list of common defects where boiler or water heater temperature/pressure relief valves are installed. All of these are unsafe conditions.
Temperature/Pressure Relief Valve Testing Advice... Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) About Heating Boiler Temperature & Pressure Relief Valves: installation, inspection, maintenance, repair or replacementQuestion: does the relief valve discharge tube have to be of copper? Is PVC ok?Thanks for the information. Is there any requirement that the fitting and pipe extension is required to be made from copper? I came across a boiler where the fitting off the T&P and the extension to the floor is made of PVC. - Kevin 7/26/2011 Reply:Kevin the relief valve would itself tap into a metal fitting on the boiler or on older installations on metal heating piping. But the discharge tube on many new installations is plastic; it's a pipe that rarely sees service and whose job is to divert hot water to the floor rather than onto a bystander. In that application most code officials accept PVC. Question water is shooting out of a valve at our well head.Water is shooting out a valve on the well head in the front yard. What might be the problem - Sue 8/21/11 Reply:Sue: regarding "Water is shooting out a valve on the well head in the front yard. What might be the problem" Question: Pressure keeps going up in my hot water boiler - how do I diagnose this?Hot water furnace. My gauge goes up to 32 pounds then trips. Shut of furnace and still happens. My hot water tank is heated by furnace. I shut off valves on lines going to my hot water tank and problem stops. Should I suspect internal leak in hot water heating core allowing internal pressure in tank to leak back to furnace causing pressure to rise. - Will 8/22/11 Reply:Will, Question: water heater pressure goes up too high and the TP valve opensI have a water heating system with radiators and no tank. My pressure goes to over 40 psi and the safety valve opens. I touched the pipe going to the expansion tank and it's cold so it looks like no water goes in there when it should. If I shut off the water supply line and drain some water the pressure reduces, however after draining it seems as the amount of water is not enough to go all the way up to the 2nd floor radiator. I checked it by opening the bleed valve and nothing comes out since there is not enough water to fill it all the way up. It heats great when the supply line is open but the pressure goes way over normal. Based on the scenario below I am suspecting a bad feeder/pressure reducer valve. Do you think this might be causing the problem. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. - May0 12/4/11 Update: I ran a test for the feeder/pressure reducer valve and it's fine. It shuts off the water exactly at 12 psi. Once the systems turns on and starts heating the water, the pressure keeps rising way over 30 psi. I watched it and it went over 40 psi when the water temperature was 150 F. I really don't know what might be causing it. I looked at the boiler unit and I can't see any signs of leaks. Shouldn't the expansion tank take care of this? Thinking logically the water should escape there and therefore reduce the pressure in the system. I don't think any water goes in that tank. I shut off the valve on the pipe going to the expansion tank. I drained it - there was hardly any water in there. I opened the valve and I was touching the pipe to see if it will get hot once the water goes in there. All this was done while the pressure was over 40 psi. The pipe didn't get hot making me think no water went in there. After that I opened the drain valve on the tank and the water started coming out reducing the pressure immediately. What could be causing the pressure to rise so high? Is the expansion tank's job to at least partially help regulate the pressure in the system? Thanks for your advise. Reply:Mayo, the diagnostic procedure you need is at RELIEF VALVE LEAKS. Also take a look at WATER PRESSURE TOO HIGH: DANGERS for some examples of causes of abnormal water pressure. Question: the pressure valve leaks when my boiler runs for a long timeI have a 20 year old SlantFin cast iron oil boiler. I have had 3 different technicians clean and set it up and I still have the same problem. The pressure valve leaks pressure/water when the boiler runs for a long time. When just using hot water or if only one zone calls for heat, it is fine. However, if multiple zones call for heat such as first thing in the morning when the programmable thermostats turn up, the pressure rises to about 30 PSI after about 10-15 minutes which is enough to make the valve open and trickle water. The colder it is in the house the bigger the puddle. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. - Tom Dionne 3/28/12 Reply:Dionne, check the temperature on your boiler when the TP valve is leaking - if it is too high that could be the problem - fixed by adjusting or repairing the aquastat control. The diagnostic procedure you need is at RELIEF VALVE LEAKS.Also see WATER PRESSURE TOO HIGH: DANGERS for other causes and effects of of abnormal water pressure. Question: loud whooshing noise after we take a showerAfter showers we hear a loud "ccssshhh" noise which sounds like it may be from the hot water tank. What could this be. It happens a couple of times after shower - Julia 8/21/12 Reply:Julia, have someone standing at the water heater and other water handling equipment in the building so that first we know where the noise is coming from. That's the first step in diagnosing this problem. Otherwise an answer here would be just too-wild speculation. Question: can I use a hot water heater relief valve on an oil fired home heating boiler?
Reply: hell no, what you propose is unsafeAarron, In our photo at left [click to enlarge] you can see that this heating boiler TP relief valve is rated at 30 psi (it opens if boiler pressure reaches or exceeds 30 psi) and at 535,000 BTUH (it is capable of releasing 535,000 BTUs of energy per hour) - these are matched to protect a heating boiler that normally operates at pressures below 30 psi and whose BTU input rate is below 535,000 BTUH. A typical domestic water heater TP valve like the Watts M6 is set to open at 150psi of water pressure (five times higher than on a heating boiler) and at 210 degrees F of temperature (higher than the normal operating temperature of a heating boiler). Watch out: Installing a water heater TP valve on a home heating boiler would be UNSAFE and risks a very catastrophic explosion should an overpressure condition occur in the boiler. Watch out: also if you see leak stains on the pressure relief valve such as those shown in our photo. This valve is leaking around the stem that operates the TP valve test lever. This valve is unsafe and needs to be replaced. Question: I keep having to change my pressure relief valve due to leakageI regularly have to have my pressure relief valve changed after a year or so because it starts to leak. My oil company says that happens with anti-freeze. Is there a special one to use with anti-freeze? FYI: I am on city water but do not have a pressure relief valve. - Mike 10/22/12 Reply:Balderdash. Either you're getting a series of defective TP valves installed (unlikely) or there is a cause of abnormal temperature or pressure at your heating boiler that needs to be properly diagnosed and fixed. The diagnostic procedure you need is at RELIEF VALVE LEAKS. Question: my heating boiler shuts off at a temperature below the settingMy boiler is set at 190 degrees, but always shuts off at 170. Any ideas? - Mark 10/26/12 Reply:Mark, your aquastat may be improperly installed (lacks temperature sensing grease or has bad contact between the aquastat temperature sensor and the sensor well sides in the boiler) or the device may be defective, or your temperature gauge may be off. See AQUASTAT CONTROL for details. Question: what kind of pressure relief valve do I need on my water heater?hi i have water heater 40000 btu natural gas what kind of pressure relief valve i need ? thank you - Paul 12/11/12 Reply:Paul, the installation instructions for your water heater will tell you exactly what temperature/pressure valve is required for your unit. The specifications will include:
Watch out: installing a TP valve that does not meet the water heater's specifications is dangerous and risks an explosion Question: shouldn't I follow the manufacturer's instructions and test my boiler's TP valve every year?I like this set of sensible and logical inspection steps. However, the Watts 374A 30PSI pressure relief valve clearly states on its paper owners/users tag atop the metal specifications tag that the homeowner should activate it yearly to ensure proper function. I'd rather do what you are suggesting because it avoids the possibility of trapping any boiler water sediment/foreign material in the valve and preventing it from seating fully. But, wouldn't further 'flushing' of valve with more water usually rectify this? Like with Schrader valve with air in inner tube of bicycle tire or for auto tubeless tire valves? - Christopher 1/9/2013 Reply: better to ask your HVAC service tech to test the TP valveThanks for the good question Christopher. Normally we always want to follow the product manufacturer's directions - they have a great interest in safe proper use of their equipment. And I agree that sometimes you can stop a leaky TP valve by repeated flushing of the valve to get debris off the valve seat. But I also have opened a TP valve to flush it and had the valve spit out part of the valve seat washer - leaving me with gushing hot boiler water at scalding temperatures. The advice to "test" the TP valve by opening its test lever once a year is "safe" advice for the manufacturer to give. But it's not so safe for the homeowner because in my OPINION:
Therefore a safer suggestion for all homeowners is to ask their heating service tech to check the TP valve at the time of annual service. The service tech has a replacement TP valve right with him or her, in the service truck, and s/he knows how to replace the valve it if keeps on leaking. Question - Comment: relief valve drain froze leading to an explosion at the heating boilerOne danger (I may have missed) happened to me. The T & P valve had a slow leak which drained outside building. At a persistent 4 degrees above 0 F, the water drip outside eventually froze and sealed the drain pipe at the exit point. Once sealed the pressure built until the T & P valve exploded and the final six week repair cost came in at just over $36,000. T & P valves are a real hazard to home owners! - B.T. 1/27/2013 Reply:Excellent point; We've talked about the issues of draining to a remote or unobserved location, but not about the freeze risk. Thank goodness no one was killed. Actually you are describing a triple fault that led to an explosion:
Had your boiler had a different weakest-link than the TP valve itself, the whole boiler could have exploded, causing still more damage and risking injury or even death to building occupants. For example, had your device been draining a water heater the unit would become a rocket, shooting up through the building - details are at BLEVE EXPLOSIONS. Ask a Question or Search InspectApediaQuestions & answers or comments about pressure or pressure & temperature safety relief valves: inspection, diagnosis, installation requirements, relief valve testing, and relief valve repair procedures. . Ask a Question or Enter Search Terms in the InspectApedia search box just below. Technical Reviewers & ReferencesRelated Topics, found near the top of this page suggest articles closely related to this one.
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