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Air Bound Hot Water Heating System Repairs: how to remove un-wanted, air from noisy or air-bound hot water heating system pipes, radiators, convectors, and baseboards using a portable pump and drain valves on the heating boiler. Here we detail exactly how to hook up a transfer pump to force water through and air out of an airbound or air-logged hot water heating system. This pumping procedure is also used to add antifreeze to hot water heating boilers.
Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman.
If a hot water heating system develops too much air in the piping you may hear bubbling or gurgling in the heating pipes when the heating system is operating, or worse, so much air may be in the heating piping, radiators, or baseboards that heat may simply not circulate at all.
The following procedure is most useful when a heating system is already hot (we don't want to introduce cold water that might damage a hot boiler), or when a hydronic (hot water) heating system has been filled with antifreeze (we don't want to spill and waste the antifreeze filler).
Most newer heating systems using forced hot water include a service drain at the hot water riser pipe leaving the boiler or if the system is divided into multiple zones using individual zone valves, each heating zone should have a service drain installed, usually near the zone valve.
This procedure for repairing an air-bound hot water heating system is similar to method #1 above except that we connect our boiler drain to a 5-gallon bucket, and we use a pony pump with a short garden hose in the bucket to pump heating water from the boiler bottom service drain into a service drain on the hot water riser pipe or heating zone water pipe.
Forcing water in this manner uses a pump that can produce higher pressures than a heating system circulator pump - it pushes air through and out of the airbound heating system.
Note: this same procedure is used to add anti-freeze to hot water heating boilers & systems for freeze protection. Details are at ANTIFREEZE for BOILERS.
Step 1: Turn off the heating boiler, using the service switch. If necessary, see ELECTRICAL POWER SWITCH FOR HEAT.
Step 2: Confirm that the heating system appears to be air-bound: heat is on and boiler temperature is up and the circulator pump is running; by touch the technician confirms that one or more sections of radiator, convector, or heating baseboard remain cold even though all radiator or convector or other circulating system valves are in the open position.
Step 3: Connect hose from pony pump output side to boiler hot water riser service drain:
Our photo (left) shows a hose connected to the hot water riser pipe at the top of a heating boiler.
The pump will push high pressure water from the boiler bottom drain into the heating system distribution piping through this heat riser service drain, forcing water and air through the heat distribution piping and radiators and back down through the boiler and out at the boiler bottom.
(Some airbound heating system service procedures may reverse the direction of these flows.)
This photo (Left) shows the black hose connecting the boiler hot water riser pipe to the pony pump output side.
The pony pump's green hose will be connected to the pump's input side and the other end of the green hose will be placed into the blue bucket.
If you are using this procedure not for air removal but to install antifreeze, the bucket connected to the pump's input side contains the antifreeze product. (ANTIFREEZE for BOILERS)
Step 5: connect one end of a short garden hose length to the boiler drain valve.
Place the other end of this hose into the same 5-gallon bucket. The black hose (inside the blue bucket in our photo above ) will be connected to the boiler drain (photo at left).
Step 6: open the boiler drain - you should see boiler water flowing into the bucket, covering the ends of both the input hose (from the boiler drain) and the output hose (connected to the pony pump input side).
Step 7: open the service drain on the boiler heat riser pipe.
Step 8: turn on the pony pump. Be sure to keep the ends of hoses in the bucket always covered with heating system water (or antifreeze mix)
Step 9: watch for air bubbles appearing in the bucket. After you see air appearing as bubbles in the bucket, watch for the air to stop.
Step 10: turn off the pony pump when no more air appears in the bucket,
Step 11: close the service drains on the heat riser pipe and at the boiler drain at the bottom of the boiler.
Step 12: Set the proper boiler cold water pressure: The automatic water feeder will put additional water into the boiler until it reaches its starting pressure.
Step 13: turn on the heating boiler and assure that the thermostat is calling for heat. When the system has reached normal operating temperature and pressure, check the radiators, convectors, or baseboard sections that were previously cold - they should now be warm.
Step 14: Check the boiler drain valve and the boiler heat riser service valve to be sure nothing is leaking. In an emergency we screw a garden hose cap on the end of a leaky heating boiler drain or service drain valve.
Step 15: Monitor heating system operation: we never leave a property where we have worked on the heating system without first checking for leaks, inspecting for obvious safety hazards (such as a bad relief valve, blocked flue, improper oil or gas burner operation), and confirming that the heating system runs through it's on-off cycle normally.
How Do we Know That the Air Bleed Valve Operation Has Been Successful?
What size (horsepower) of Pony Pump do We Need to Force Air out of an Air Bound Heating System?
You should not need a very powerful pump to force water through an air-bound hydronic heating system, since the fact that nearly all of the heating pipes are already full of water means the pump does not have to have enormous lift capacity.
The Little Giant™ MPFVK115 Portable 115 Volt Non-Submersible Steel Transfer Pump is one that we have used successfully in this application.
This is a non-submersible transfer pump made of stainless steel, operating on 115 Volts, and rated for 365 gallons per hour, produced by manufacturer Little Giant. Part No. MPFVK115. You can purchase that pump from plumbing suppliers or online at Amazon.com.
Thanks to reader David Gould for discussing pump requirements (2010);
Contact us if you have other suggestions for improving this procedure. We are pleased to give credit and links to contributing reviewers, authors, or critics.
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