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Jetted tub installation best practices:
This article discusses best installation practices for jetted tubs, soaking tubs, whirlpool baths and spas.
A list of kitchen and bath product manufactures and sources is included. This article series discusses current best design practices for kitchens and bathrooms, including layout, clearances, work space, and accessible kitchen and bathroom layout, clearances, turning space, grab bars, controls, etc.
We include advice on choosing and installing kitchen countertops, cabinets, and kitchen or bathroom flooring, sinks, and other plumbing fixtures and fixture controls such as faucets.
The simplest and least expensive installation
is into a two-wall or three-wall cove with factory-supplied
skirts to conceal the mechanicals. However, many customers
prefer the look of a drop-in model with a custom tile surround
(see Figure 6-53).
With either type of installation, it is critical
that the weight of the tub be supported by the base, not the
lip. With larger tubs, often holding 50 to 80 gallons of water
(at 8 pounds per gallon), the framing and subfloor may need
to be reinforced to support the total weight of the tub, water,
and bathers. A larger water heater may also be needed.
The most common method to support the tub bottom
and dampen vibration is to set the tub onto several small
mounds of wet plaster or mortar mix that compress and
conform to the shape of the tub bottom as it is installed. A
non shrinking grout such as Sonogrout 10K (Sonneborn) is
best since it will not leave gaps as it dries.
the tub with water until the mortar sets will ensure a good
fit. Many contractors recommend using mortar even with
units including “self-leveling” bases, which are designed
to sit on a level subfloor with no additional support.
A few tubs are designed with individual bearing points
molded into the bottom of the tub. With this type, it is important
to make sure that the bearing points fall on joists
or solid blocking. Solid bridging should also be added to
help distribute the load to the surrounding joists.
Access Panel Designs for Whirlpool Baths, Jetted Tubs, Spas
With a custom-built surround, it is necessary
to leave an access panel. Although access to the mechanicals
is rarely needed, it should not require tearing apart
the tile surround.
A simple approach is to tile the access
panel, hang it with magnets, and caulk the joint between the
access panel and surrounding tiles. If access is necessary,
the caulk can be slit with a knife and the panel removed.
Where the tub rim meets tile at a wall or the top of the
surround, use a flexible caulk rather than grout, which will
crack as the tub flexes, and expands and contracts with
Question: jetted tub elevation for basement installation
6/16/2014 Anonymous said:
Is it necessary to raise a jet tub installed in the basement by 12 inches to allow for drainage?
You have two general approaches to drainage options when installing a jetted tub or any other plumbing system in a building basement:
IF the outlet of the plumbing fixture trap is sufficiently high above the point at which the fixture drain connects to a building drain then the fixture can drain by gravity. Sometimes we gain a little height at the fixture to make a drain line work by building a platform onto which the toilet, tub, or shower is installed, allowing it to drain by gravity. You need between 1/8" and 1/4" of slope per foot over the entire run of the plumbing drain.
IF the fixture outlet trap is too low to drain by gravity and building a platform is not practical, for example when the building drain exits high on the basement wall, you'll need to install an ejector pump and check valve so that drainage from the fixture can be lifted to the height of the building drain. If a toilet also empties into the ejector pump then a grinder pump is needed.
Where to Get Instructions for Specific-Brands of Jetted and Soaking Tubs
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