Q&A about brick filled cavity walls in wood frame buildings:

FAQs about replacing or living-with brick-lined wood framed buildings - brick nogging features, renovations, insulation options, structural considerations.

This article series describes brick wall lining or "insulation" in buildings, why it was used, what problems may occur, and the inspection methods and clues to detect brick lined walls in older homes (sometimes called Brick Nogging) and discusses the implications of brick wall liners in buildings.

Brick Wall Lining in Older Homes: how to identify brick nogging

These questions & answers about brick nogging or brick "insulation" or lining in wood framed or timber-framed walls were posted originally at BRICK LINED WALLS - be sure to see that topic home page.

On 2018-01-23 by (mod) - suggestions for insulating a brick-lined wall

Peter

Thanks for an excellent question. To have space for a wordy reply I repeat your questinon and give our answer at the bottom of the article BRICK LINED WALLS. Please take a look, post photos, or ask more questions.

On 2018-01-23 by Peter

@Peter,
Oh, and when I saw 'wall' I just mean the bricks between the studs

I have an old 1830's home in Kingston NY which has brick lined walls. One area of our home (which most likely used to be a porch) is especially drafty. It's not large... perhaps 10'x20'. How feasible would it be for me to tear down the wall from the inside, remove the brick, insulate, and then sheetrock? Is that a crazy idea???

On 2017-03-22 by (mod) - purposes of brick nogging in walls

Pfram,

Brick nogging was probably used both for fire resistance (rather incomplete as the wood framing isn't interrupted by the brick) and for thermal mass - a form of "insulation" in that it regulates building temperatures.

In any event I agree with your assessment of "goofy". One might wish that a building permit were required for substantial interior renovations - as is probably the case in Brooklyn NY, and that the building inspector would consider the integrity of the fire wall between abutting living units.

Ultimately the owner might be required to install fire-rated drywall.

On 2017-03-22 by Pfram

I recently saw one of those goofy home renovation case study stories about someone who had done a trendy renovation on "wood-framed brownstone" in Brooklyn, NYC. They had hacked away all the plaster on the firewall to expose the brick nogging, which had apparently was used to improve its fire resistance.

So the photo showed an ornately carved fireplace surrounded by messy wood framing and even messier brickwork, none of which was meant to be seen.

There's no accounting for tastes, but the owners had not only given up a significant amount of fire and noise proofing (the plaster may have been a better fire barrier than the brick), but they also cheated their neighbor of the same and left a potentially unstable wall hovering over anyone who entered.

On 2016-08-24 by (mod) - it was common to plaster the interior side of solid or structural brick walls directly.

Yes, CD it was common to plaster the interior side of brick walls directly.

On 2016-08-22 by cdjjr

I knew we had one of these brick-fill balloon frame homes from our inspection back when we purchased it, but I made new discovery when undertaking some plaster repairs on interior surface of outside walls.

After successfully using "Big Wally's" Plaster Magic kit to repair cracks in an interior wall, I tired to use it on an exterior wall and was having trouble hitting lathing with the screws -- discovered that there was no lathing and that the plaster was attached directly to the brick "nogging."

Was it common practice for plastering exterior brick-filled walls in homes of ours vintage (built ~1865)?

When tyring to use I discovered

On 2016-08-05 by Jhustins

The owner of the foam company apologized quite a bit for not checking further. I had an opening in one wall and had recently had a cable run through another (where an older cable had been run). I knew there were bricks up in the wall where the opening was between 2 windows.

If I knew it was common that would have been a red flag! I found this site after googling bricks between studs. I found it very interesting that two of the towns mentioned here are very near to me (I'm in the town of Newburgh, NY)

I'll be testing other parts of the house as I go. Thanks for the info

On 2016-08-04 by (mod) - Every hole they tried to drill hit brick.

JH

You betcha. What a frustrating surprise and a waste of time that nobody tried checking the walls before hiring the insulator.

Even if the post and beam section of a home is not brick-lined you (probably already know) have to find and insulate around diagonal bracing; otherwise some wall cavities won't be filled.

On 2016-08-04 by jhustins

I had seen houses with brick between studs exposed, but was not aware that they would be contained within the walls. Found out the hard way yesterday... Had an appointment to have the walls filled with foam insulation after removing an unused phone jack box and finding no insulation.

Every hole they tried to drill hit brick. Appears that the only spot that's open is where I checked. The odd part is I was told this addition was built in the 1920s - guess it must be older than we thought. The main house was built in 1869 - I haven't checked those walls yet!

On 2016-06-29 by (mod) - follow good construction practices regarding where you place vapor barriers, air barriers, and insulation

Ryan I would be careful to follow good construction practices regarding where you place vapor barriers, air barriers, and insulation so as not to create a water or moisture trap in the wall.

For example insulating over a brick-lined frame wall by putting solid foam or foil faced foam insulation on the exterior could create a moisture problem in the wall on the interior side depending on the total R-value of the wall and your climate.

It sounds as if you're removing and reinstalling clapboards: otherwise you wouldn't be asking about what goes behind them.

I'd install housewrap stapled to studs, properly lapped, taped around openings. Anything thicker means you'll have to redesign the wall and frame out all of the exterior trim to accomodate the new wall thickness.

Search InspectApedia for HOUSE WRAP INSTALLATION to see details.

To improve the total R value I'd either remove the brick and insulate the wall cavities (from outside or inside), or I'd consider a layer of interior insluation (that also leads to the trim build-out problem as well as having to bring forward receptacles and switches on extterior walls.

On 2016-06-29 by Ryan

I am in the process of renovating the clap board that is under faux brick asphalt and aluminum siding. I live in Illinois and found that my home has brick nogging.do I have to insulate behind the clapboard? And what would be best to fill the nail holes in the clapboard?

On 2016-06-01 by (mod) -

Thanks, Lynne. I'd enjoy seeing photos of the nogging if you've got'em to share. Last week I was examining stains on a stucco exterior church in Millbrook and was interested to find that inside the brick had always been left exposed in a half-timbered design - making an understanding of the wall a bit easier than when it's been plastered over.

On 2016-06-01 by Lynne D. Miller

This was extremely helpful as I inspected a dwelling in Zoar Ohio that was constructed in 1836. Luckily there was exposed nogging in the bed & breakfast.

On 2016-02-22 by (mod) -

Erik

Use the email at our page bottom CONTACT link to send us some photos for comment.

Generally these homes were framed using post and beam type construction, sometimes stud framing construction. Then brick was added as an infill to add "insulation" really adding thermal mass (which is not a substitute for insulation but can add comfort) and blocking drafts through the walls (by filling in the cavity completely with masonry).

IN principle you could remove the brick and insulate the walls; foam would be most effective where there are probably irregularly spaced framing members.

But a concern is the possibility of damaged framing from rot or insects or lost connections. Wherever that has occurred, the building, or parts of its walls, may be relying on or resting on the masonry infill in the wall. IF that's the case, pulling out the masonry could cause a collapse. So a competent and detailed inspection of the walls is in order.

If you leave the walls alone and add foam insulation you lose any benefit of thermal mass, and I'm doubtufl that you'll enjoy adding enough thickness of foam (probably 2") to give good R-values (unless you live in a climate with a very mild heating load). And the cost of building out trim around windows and doors can be ugly whether you try the foam trick inside or outside. I've seen it done and even done it with thin (not very effective) foam, but it's not what I would do now.

On 2016-02-22 by Erik

Thanks for the helpfull article any further input appreciated!

I own a 4 bedroom, former stage line inn house built in 1810. The old stage line developed over the years to become a 4 lane noisy US highway. Since buying my home I have long wanted to redo the interior in the bedrooms and upgrade insulation, electric and noise integrity in the process. My plan was:

1. to strip the primitive plasterboard that has ages of wallpapers and paint layers that are curled and cracked beyond rescue.

2. Rerun electric and get rid of wire mold on the base boards.

3. Fill the walls with closed cell spray foam

4. Finish walls with quietrock to help shut out the highway.

The bedrooms are on the second floor in the 4 corners with a central landing in the middle. Each room has 2 exterior walls with Windows that start at shin level and ceilings at approx 7 feet. So as I dug into the wall in the Guinea pig first room I was shocked to find brick inside of the exterior facing walls.

The brick is a single layer pieced in between studs and main structural beams like facia veneer or the original walls of the 1810 house. Further demo showed me while antique and primitive, the house is frame construction. So now the ?s. Upon this discovery I have stalled the project to collect knowledge .

Some say pull the brick and proceed as planned. Some have said pulling the brick may be catastrophic and cause the structure to relax and crack all the plaster on the first floor.

Another opinion was to put half inch foil coated foam board in the minimal gap that remains between the brick and the stud surfaces to which the quietrock will be anchored and foil tape the seams.

Doing this at least I would at least be getting a draft tight vapor barrier while only achieving piddly R3 insulation value. So ,ideas,opinions? Can email or upload pics of rooms and exposed framing/brick if helpfull. Thanks again Erik

On 2015-12-12 by (mod) -

Sorry Anon but I don't know what structural damage has been incurred.

On 2015-12-11 by Anonymous - I purchased a home with brick bogging

I purchased a home with brick bogging. The first floor bogging had been removed and insulated. This home also has a slate roof. How do I repair the structral damage caused by removing thr nogging

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Continue reading at BRICK LINED WALLS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see these

Recommended Articles

• BRICK STRUCTURAL WALLS LOOSE, BULGED
• INSULATION IDENTIFICATION GUIDE - home
• INSULATION LOCATION - WHERE TO PUT IT - home

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BRICK LINED WALLS FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

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INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to BUILDING INSULATION

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