Questions & answers about the Data Tags & Labels on Double-Wides, Mobile Homes, Trailers or Manufactured Housing:

This article answers frequently-asked questions about the labels or data tags found on manufactured cottages, mobile homes, trailers, doublewides, and other manufactured housing or cottages.

This article series provides mobile home inspection, troubleshooting & repair procedures, defect lists, & references to standards. We explain where to look for costly or dangerous problems on mobile homes, trailers, or double-wides.

Q&A on Manufactured & Mobile Home Data Tags & Labels & Certifications

Recently-Posted questions & answers about mobile home & manufactured home labels, data tags, and data tag decoding, contents, or use, posted originally

at MOBILE / MANUFACTURED HOME LABELS

On 2016-08-09 by NHFireBear - NFPA 501, Standard on Manufactured Housing (2013 edition) has its own labeling requirement for U.S. mobile homes

As I recently mentioned in the article about codes related to mobile homes:

Where applicable, NFPA 501, Standard on Manufactured Housing (2013 edition) has its own labeling requirement for showing certification of compliance with NFPA 501 on a permanent 2x4-inch plate, mounted on the taillight end of each transportable (mobile) unit, located one foot up from the bottom and one foot in from the "road" side, or as near that location as practicable.

Unless otherwise expressly superseded, that code would apply to mobile homes in a jurisdiction that has adopted NFPA 1 (e.g., 2015), in situations where the federal law doesn't preempt it with respect to manufactured homes.

On 2016-03-23 by (mod) - re: no one is getting my home finished so I can move in

Anon:

Check the EXPERTS DIRECTORY at the top of this page, and hire an independent home inspector who is familiar with manufactured or mobile homes. A comprehensive inspection focused on costly or dangerous conditions will give you a better overall picture no just of what work was being done (and completed or not) but what else you'll need to do.

On 2016-03-23 by Anonymous

I need to know who I will need to speak to on getting ripped off and know one is getting my home finished so I can move in

first the man 21st Mortage got to do the pad he tore the yard up also busted the tank and can know longer find fill lines or water lines and they are not fixing that a new roof was installed which has no vent pipes coming out I don't know which way to turn please help

Question: Who is responsible for the mailbox serving my mobile home ?

problem who is responsible for mail boxes the property owner o the resident ? ranaheim@roadrunner.com

Reply:

Ranaheim

I don't think there is a single right answer to the mailbox responsibility question as it varies perhaps by local jurisdiction and certainly by the practical matter of where the mailboxes are physically located.

In general a building or home owner is responsible for the condition of a mailbox that is attached to or part of their home or that is on their own property.

If the mailboxes at your home are grouped in a gang in a row at the front of your complex, you might expect the property owner to maintain the support system for the mailboxes. But certainly any individual who cares about their mail delivery will want to make sure that their box is secure, and that it remains accessible in all weather (such as deep snow cover).

Question: how do I get someone to inspect our doublewide, and how much will it cost

I am interested in buying a 1989 doublewide manufactured home in a retirement community in Hudson, Florida. I want to have it inspected. Where should I go to find a reliable manufactured home inspector in that area ?
How much should I expect to pay for the inspection?
Thanks so much for helping us. - Jackee 7/13/2012

Reply:

Anon, I'd start outside the home, inspecting the roof and roof edges for evidence of leaks or animal entry.

Jackie: unfortunately not all professional home inspectors are willing to inspect manufactured homes, doublewides, trailers, etc. Nevertheless I would start by contacting any of the overabundant number of home inspectors nad home inspector associations in Florida (ASHI, FABI, for example), to locate an experienced inspector in your area. Then call and ask if the inspector has experience with your type of housing and is willing to inspect it.

Fees are typically in the hundreds of dollars. But it would be a false economy to hire someone who is cheap but incompetent, or even free but does not know your type of home structure well. The risk is that the inspection is free or cheap but the cost to fix problems and surprises that such an inspector missed can be enormous.

Question: horrible tuna fish smell from double wide home ceilings

I bought a 2008 double wide and i have this terrible smell that smells like tuna that seems to be coming from the ceilings? - Anonymous 7/15/2012

Reply:

Anon, at ODORS & SMELLS DIAGNOSIS & CURE we provide procedures for tracking down and curing smells and odors in buildings. In your home, I'd also inspect outside as well as inside for evidend of leaks into the roof / ceiling structure, or animal entry there. Check first for safe and un-blocked heating and ventilation flues as a blockage there by a dead animal would also be unsafe.

Aside from animals, leaks into the ceiling could have produced a mold problem.

Don't forget to inspect and check in the crawl space too - odors travel in structures so you could be fooled about a source.

Question: do mobile homes have an attic?

we r currently buying a 1971 dw mobile home, it has been bricked in. this type of mobile home have a attic? - q Cecilia Jones 8/6/2012

Reply:

Cecilia,

I've rarely found a doublewide that has a usable attic, though there may be access to look into that space via an access hatch or a gable-end louvered vent. I would certainly ask the inspector to check that area as you'll want to know about insulation and about the roof leak history.

Also I'm confused about "bricked-in" - use the CONTACT US link on any of our pages to send me some photos and I may be able to comment further.

Question: Rental-unit double-wide mobile home with no insulation, no heat, flickering lights: is this normal?

Do these come pre trimmed in the inside? Or do I have to pull them off and insulate underneath them? Im renting and its costing me 600 a month to heat. I don't think the renters insulated it at all. I pull a piece of trim from around the slider door and no insulation there. The pipes, no caulk or anything

. I can throw a penny down to the ground from the bath pipes. It is a double wide. The house has a gap in the floor where it looks like the house is coming apart. I can stick a long needle rite threw it to the ground. - Kevin 8/13/12

Do Double wide Mobile come pre trimmed to the sellers in the inside? Or do the businesses that sell them have to have to pull them off and insulate underneath them? I'm renting a 2004 and its costing me $500-$600 a month to heat. I don't think the renters insulated it at all.  I pulled a piece of trim from around the slider door and no insulation there. I put my hand underneath the cement foundation and the floor. No insulation there as well.

The heat comes out semi cold. It only has a 56000 BTU heater and is new. But.. This seems low for a 40X60 or 40X70 Im not sure which one this is. But it runs for house trying to get the house warm. The dishwasher water freezes in the inside of it during the winter. I tried pulling it out to see why.

But its hooked in. Cold air rushes from the light sockets to where it blows a lighter out. I came from a 3 story victory. So I know little about pre-manufactured homes. The pipes, no caulk or anything. I can throw a penny down to the ground from the bath pipes. I have caulked around it now.

The house has now  formed a gap in the floor where it looks like the house is coming apart. I can stick a long needle rite threw the carpet it to the ground. Is the house just settling? Also the electric is $300-to $400 a month. The light bulbs flash like a strobe light all the time.

They had a 12,000 volt cow fence hooked and water  for their 50 head of cows in when we got here. After paying for that (unknowingly) for 6-8 months I realized that it was hooked in.

When I turn off the electric to the house. The fence and water  would turned off. So they put in a separate pole. But the lights still flicker and the fuse box blows fuses all the time (for no reason) like if I have the washer on. I have two small girls. The renters say this is all normal. - Computer Geekz - 8/13/12

Regarding your mobile home codes & standards question, please see MOBILE HOME CODES, STANDARDS & MANUALS.

FAQs about the properties of double-wide homes:

Do these [double wide homes] come pre trimmed in the inside?

- Yes double-wide and mobile homes are usually sold completely finished, including wall and ceiling, coverings, trim, appliances, and fixtures. However depending on the manufacturer it may be possible to buy these units without some of these features installed, intended to be finished by a buyer. A typical example might be leaving out carpeting and offering carpet choices.

Do I have to pull them [wall finishes, ceiling finishes, trim] off and insulate underneath them in a double-wide?

- No it would be unusual for a completed double-wide home to be sold uninsulated unless it were a specially-contracted version as I've mentioned above.

And it would make no sense whatsoever to complete a home's interior finishing, trim, wall coverings etc., and then expect a buyer to tear these off in order to insulate the structure

. Also in our OPINION it is not normal for a tenant renting a double-wide or mobile home to be expected to insulate, install heat, install electrical wiring.

The heat [in my double-wide] comes out semi cold.

- This is not a normal nor proper condition. Either your heating system is not working and needs repair, or as you suggest, your unit was not properly constructed and insulated, perhaps routing heating air ducts through a cold, uninsulated space. I can only SPECULATE that perhaps your home was contracted for and sold as an incomplete unit, or was sold for and moved from a different climate.

The light bulbs [in my double-wide home] flash like a strobe light all the time.

- Watch out: You are describing an unsafe condition that includes risk of overheating electrical circuits, amateur or improper electrical wiring, and a risk that could include a fire, personal injury, property loss or even death. As you say you are a tenant, not the property owner, our advice is

• turnoff any electrical circuits that are behaving oddly as you describe
• notify the property owner immediately orally and in writing that your home is unsafe and not safely habitable, requesting that inspection and repairs be made by a properly qualified and licensed electrician or other professional (such as for the heat) as needed.

Keep us posted on how things progress - what we learn may help other readers. I've kept your questions here because this is where you posted them and we want you to find our reply But details about how mobile homes and double-wide homes are built, inspected, and maintained is at MOBILE HOMES, DOUBLEWIDES, TRAILERS.

Reader follow-up:

I crawled underneath today. There is nothing there. No blanket insulation......(nothing) lol WOW - Computer Geekz - 8/15/12

Question: Clayton mobile home does not match blueprints

(Oct 28, 2011) michael lavalle said:

the claton home that was delivered is not what i order .blue prints all wroung

(Mar 6, 2012) Plumbing los gatos said:

I have learned something new from you this morning Daniel. I have worked with a great many different plumbing systems over the years, but I had never heard of this system before. I have printed this one out and have added it to my plumbing information binder.

Reply:

Los Gatos: thanks for the note; I'm not sure what new topic you refer to, but glad to be of use; we welcome questions about our website articles and are glad to research further to work on answers when needed. It benefits everyone. Daniel

Question: knocking sound in home blamed on low water pressure - when the furnace kicks on

(Mar 17, 2014) Jeani said:

We have a 1987 Holiday Manor double wide that we love except for the noisy heating system. Right before the furnace kicks on, there is a knocking sound that travels throughout the house starting out slow and getting faster and faster as it moves through the rooms. It's loud enough that it wakes us up at night. Any suggestions?

It's a natural gas furnace and is the original one that came with the house. We had a local heating contractor check it out and their explanation was that the water pressure is too low. They put in a backflow preventor and a shut off valve off the water line so you don't have to drain the furnace to service the whole system but didn't have any other solution.

Any suggestions? The heat works, but boy oh boy, the noise is awful!

Reply:

Jeani,

Low water pressure to a building would not normally affect the operation of a heating boiler; a service tech might indeed check water level and pressure in the boiler itself to be sure it's within normal operating levels and pressures (typically 12 psi when the boiler is cold).

Search InspectApedia for "heating system noises" for articles offering further help. Indeed banging radiator pipes or baseboards can be common on heating systems.

Question: how do I figure out who made my manufactured home?

Sharon said:

How can I find the name of the manufacturer and model, and possibly a serial number of a 1971 manufactured home? The title says Make: MALB, Body: HS. The home now has vinyl siding so any label is concealed.

Reply:

Sharon, at

MOBILE / MANUFACTURED HOME LABELS - Mobile Homes and Manufactured Housing Labels & Certifications

we list some locations where you might find the data tag on your mobile home - that's where the manufacturer should be identified. On a home as old as yours there may be no tag. At that point I'd start asking my neighbors who have similar-aged homes.

Question: structural connections, movement, separations, repairs for a double-wide home

(Apr 30, 2014) Anonymous said:

I have a older double wide and am doing floor repair work. The center two joists are connected with a long spick at an angle. The bottom is flush but there is a gap of about one inch on the top. What do I do ? leave it as is or bolt the top together ?

Reply:

(Apr 30, 2014) (mod) said:

Anon I'm sorry but I don't have a clear enough idea of what's going on with the structure of the doublewide to be confident of an answer. I can say in general that structural connections are very important to prevent a building collapse or to prevent dangerous movement that an open a gas line or rip an electrical wire.

I can't tell if the gap you describe has been there since original construction or if it indicates more worrisome ongoing movement.

If you are referring to the mating of the joists of the two halves of the doublewide at the center of the floor structure, it'd be normal for them to be bolted together. If they're through-bolted securely, say 18" on center (I'm not an engineer) I think they'd be quite secure.

Reader follow-up

Dan,

Thanks for your quick response. The floor joists are not bolted together, but are connected with a spike driven at an angle of about 20 degrees from horizontal. The bottom of the joists are flush but the tops are separated by about an inch. I am wondering if I should bolt them at the top to bring them together again, or whether I am better off leaving things as they are.

I don't know how long the gap between the joists has existed. It is a 1979 unit that I bought a couple of years ago and I recently discovered the issue with the joists when I tore up some damaged sub-flooring.

Reply:

Anon,
Opposite side angled toe-nailing, if properly done, is quite strong. But when we see the sort of separation you describe going on I'd want to understand why before prescribing the "fix".

Picture two floor structures, say wood-framed, with their perimeter rim joists bolted together at the center of the combined area.

Picture a floor support on piers set both beneath the combined rim joist center girder and the outer perimeter rim joists that run parallel to the nailed-together center.

Imagine that the outer perimeter piers or foundation settled downwards beneath one or both of the floor sections.

That sort of settlement *could* explain the center joist separation you describe. If investigation shows that that's the case (start by checking for out of level floors), the trying to pull the nailed-together center joists with bolts would be futile and risks separating the rim joist from the floor joists.

Let me know what you find. Send along some sharp photos using our CONTACT link and I can comment further.

Question: what will it cost to remodel a 1995 mobile home single wide inside and out

(5 days ago) Frankie Neal said:

Need to know what will it cost to remodel a 1995 mobile home single wide inside and out

Reply:

Frankie, without knowing a shred of information about the home, I'm afraid any cost guess would be just arm waving. More, we don't know what underlying issues will be found, not even the size, type, age of the home. But a fair rule in remodeling is to figure the end cost will be as much as twice the original estimate.

Question: how to figure out if the mobile home is livable

5/26/14 Mac said:

I'm having some trouble getting any ideas on if my mobile home that I'm renting is even considered livable. I'm not technically in a park, so there doesn't seem to be any information regarding what the codes would be. I already know I've been mislead about the condition of the place, and that IS on me, but I am seeing increasing evidence that the home is not water tight,

I know the roof is bad, and I believe I can go right through the pop-out wall if I wanted to. There is packing tape slapped over a large hole in the wall and painted over, so I missed finding that on my walk through, but a lot of the north side of the home seems to have rot in the walls.

This is at least a 78, maybe a 75 era mobile, and the master bedroom on the front got destroyed by a fallen tree a few years before I moved in.

Thank you in advance,
A wiser renter

Reply:

Mac, indeed leaks n older mobile homes are common at roofs,moron edges, windows, doors, and can rot the structure as well as even the floor - meaning the home could be unsafe. Sometimes I find that a careful inspection from below, with a food light,mlooking for leak stains, can give an idea of the areas and extent of leakage.

Ask if you have specific questions or let me know how we can assist.

Question: how to find access to the attic of a Fleetwood Mobile Home or Patriot Doublewide Home

(July 17, 2014) WANDA RIDGWAY said:
HOW DO I GET TO THE AIR UNIT THAT FLEETWOOD BUILT IN THE ATTIC SPACE OF MY MOBILE HOME

(Mar 13, 2015) jacque said:
I have a 1995 patriot double wide home and am wondering where the attic access is.

Reply:

Wanda and Jacque

Look for an attic hatch or a removable cover on one of the roof gable-ends. If none is provided then the installation is a terrible one as no one anticipated the need for service, maintenance, repair - in that case you'll need to make an access opening.

Question: mobile home ductwork leaks and holes

(Aug 6, 2014) Donna said:
I have holes in the duct work right under the register (3 of them). I want to repair them from inside instead of going under....is that possible?? and what would cause the holes? any suggestions?

Reply:

Donna if you can reach the holes through the register you may be able to patch them - depending on the materials used for the original duct. For example sheet metal patching or even fiberglass and epoxy patching can work on metal ductwork; but flex-duct with holes needs to be replaced.

Question: buckled floors in double-wide home

(Oct 13, 2014) lee said:
buckled floors in my double wide in kitchen laundry room and bathrooms seems to only occur in summertime live in nc. whats the problem also no apparent leaks in house and under house.

Reply:

Lee, I would double-check again for a leak, wet insulation under the home. If none of those are present I suspect that subflooring sections may be tightly-butted, inadequately supported, and buckling from moisture from the soil below. Check for subfloor fasteners that have pulled loose.

A repair may be rather involved: one would have to remove the finish flooring such as carpeting from above, then if necessary cut relief kerfs with a power saw, parallel to and centered over the floor joists at the existing subflooring butt joints, and possibly add screws to secure the flooring in place. If the framing itself is damaged contact me and we'll discuss that further.

Question: repair damaged wall framing in a trailer or mobile home

(Oct 23, 2014) Jean said:
I have a 1983 trailer with structural water damage in the wall. The framing is like mush. How can it be repaired?

Reply:

Jean:

Repairing rotted wall framing on any structure is troublesome and costly; several investigations and decisions need to be made before proceeding:

1. Does the damage present immediate safety hazards such as risk of collapse or inability to open emergency exit doors in case of a fire.
2. What is the extent of damage: we need to know how much of the home has been damaged to understand the scope of repair work needed.
3. What will be the cost of repairs: if the actuyal out-of-pocket repair cost approaches the value of the home then repair may not make economic sense.
4. Where are the leaks and have they been repaired: there's no point making leak damage repairs before the cause has been corrected.
5. From which side of walls should repairs be attempted: it may be less costly to remove interior wall paneling or drywall if that's where the damag is present. But if the damage is extensive and continues behind cabinets or other built-in components or extends into the roof, removal of outside cladding (also a mess) may be less disruptive and less costly.

Question: market value of a 1970's doublewide

(Dec 3, 2014) Anonymous said:
wondering what the market value is on an older unrenevated early 70's double wide?

Reply:

Contact a local real estate agent, since home prices vary quite widely by geographic location as well as specific lot or site properties. General values for mobile homes are given by a number of online soruces such as nadaguides.com.

Question: plumbing pipe repairs on a Peachtree home

(Jan 6, 2015) Emma Brinson said:
I have a Peachtree home 1984 and no one never called a pipes need to be replaced

277 pond pine st Tallahassee 32310
how can I get some one to call me 850 556 6991 850 575 6974 home wk 850 617 2590

Question: Poor quality of windows in a 1975 doublewide home: should I replace the windows on my doublewide?

(Mar 4, 2015) Hendo said:
I am looking to buy a 1975 DW home in a Senior Park in Oregon. The windows are single pane, I want to replace them if I buy it, with double glazed that are more efficient. I thought that the walls were 4" but now I think they are probably 2"-3"?

Reply:

Hendo:

I agree that the windows on older doublewides are often in poor condition, leaky, causing damage to the structure, and that they increase heating or cooling costs. Certainly there are companies who sell replacement windows designed for these structures. But before replacing your windows I'd look carefuylly at the following questions:

1. Is there leak damage to the doublewide that means that a window-replacement project is going to run into still larger costs that were not anticipated
2. What will be the installed-cost per windows?
3. What will be the pay-back period for the cost of window replacement versus reduction in heating or cooling costs?
4. How long do you expect to live in and own the home? If the time period is short and the payback period long, replacement of the windows may not make economic sense.
5. Is it possible or feasible to install outdoor or interior storm windows atop the existing windows to improve energy costs, stop air leaks and spend much less on window improvements?

Question: find instruction or installation manuals for older mobile homes by Dualwide

(Mar 8, 2015) Anonymous said:

Is there a way to find old installation manuals? I have a old 1970's mobile home made by Dualwide. They have since gone out of business and I have not been able to locate the installation manual. The county I live in requires the manual for permits because they need to know the specs for load bearing walls etc. Any suggestions?

Reply:

Anon:

Dualwide Homes was a manufactured home producer incorporated in California but with a mailing address at 55 Madison, Denver Colorado 80206. The company was incorporated in 1968 in California with an ID of CO552078. Its registration as an active company was suspended in California on 4 May 1987 according to the California Franchise Tax Board. - source: wysk.com, retrieved 9 April 2015

Like you, I was unable to find an online source for Dualwide mobile home manuals.

My suggestion (which means more of an expense to you than buying a manual) is to go back to your county building department to ask what other certification they will accept. Normally if you obtain a statement or home description by a licensed building design professional such as an architect or engineer the building department may be satisfied.

After all, in the case of a home that is more than 40 years old, a statement of its present condition is more reliable than what might be inferred by a 1970's installation manual.

Question: where to find the mobile home label

(Mar 18, 2015) Steve said:
where is the model number and manufacturers I.D. located on a double wide trailer?

Reply:

Steve, at MOBILE HOME LABELS we list some locations where you might find the data tag on your mobile home - that's where the manufacturer should be identified. On a home as old as yours there may be no tag. At that point I'd start asking my neighbors who have similar-aged homes.

Question: NHFireBear suggests source for HUD regulMOBILE / MANUFACTURED HOME LABELS Homes and Manufactured Housing Labels & Certifications", above:

The "Data plate": 24 CFR § 3280.5 Data plate. "Each manufactured home shall bear a data plate affixed in a permanent manner near the main electrical panel or other readily accessible and visible location..." It includes a list of installed equipment, wind zone, roof load, manufacturer, model, serial, etc.

24 CFR § 3280.11 Certification label. "The label shall be located at the tail-light end of each transportable
section of the manufactured home approximately one foot up from the floor and one foot in from the road side, or as near that location on a permanent part of the exterior of the manufactured home unit as practicable." It is an aluminum plate, ca. 2x4 inches, attached by 4 blind rivets or other permanent fasteners.

Reply:

Thank you NHFireBear. We have added a live link to the HUD documents where previously they were named in this article series and at MOBILE / MANUFACTURED HOME LABELS we quote the full maufactured home labeling requirements.

...

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MOBILE HOME CODES, STANDARDS & MANUALS

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MODULAR HOME or OFFICE LABELS & CODE COMPLIANCE - using a modular or mobile home label to prove code compliance

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MOBILE / MANUFACTURED HOME LABEL FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

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