Question? Just ask us!
Free Encyclopedia of Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, Repair
InspectAPedia ® Home
STRUCTURAL INSPECTIONS & DEFECTS
ADHESIVES, EXTERIOR CONSTRUCTION
AGE of a BUILDING - how to determine
ALGAE, FUNGUS, LICHENS, MOSS
ASBESTOS IDENTIFICATION IN BUILDINGS
ATTIC CONDENSATION CAUSE & CURE
BATH & KITCHEN DESIGN GUIDE
BEST CONSTRUCTION PRACTICES GUIDE
CAULKS & SEALANTS, EXTERIOR
CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR
COLUMNS & POSTS, DEFECTS
CONNECTORS, FASTENERS, TIES
DECK & PORCH CONSTRUCTION
DECK FINISHES COATINGS PRESERVATIVES
DEFINITIONS of ENGINEERED WOOD OSB LVL etc
DRYWELLS, FRENCH DRAINS for FLAT SITES
EARTHQUAKE DAMAGED FOUNDATIONS
EIFS & STUCCO EXTERIORS
EXTERIOR WALL SIDING TRIM & FINISHES
EXTRACTIVE BLEEDING STAINS
FLASHING MEMBRANES PEEL & STICK
FLASHING for METAL ROOFS
FLASHING SIDING DETAILS
FLASHING WALL DETAILS
FLASHING WINDOW DETAILS
FLASHING WOOD ROOF DETAILS
FLOOD DAMAGE ASSESSMENT, SAFETY & CLEANUP
FOOTING & FOUNDATION DRAINS
GALVANIC SCALE & METAL CORROSION
GLUES ADHESIVES, EXTERIOR CONSTRUCTION
GRADING, DRAINAGE & SITE WORK
GUTTERS & DOWNSPOUTS
HOUSEWRAP INSTALLATION DETAILS
HUMIDITY LEVEL TARGET
ROOF ICE DAM LEAKS
INDOOR AIR QUALITY & HOUSE TIGHTNESS
INSECT INFESTATION / DAMAGE
KIT HOMES, Aladdin, Sears, Wards, Others
KITCHEN & BATH DESIGN GUIDE
LEAD POISONING HAZARDS GUIDE
LEED GREEN BUILDING CERTIFICATION
LIGHTING, EXTERIOR GUIDE
LIGHTING, INTERIOR GUIDE
MOBILE HOMES, DOUBLEWIDES, TRAILERS
MODULAR HOME CONSTRUCTION
MOISTURE CONTROL in BUILDINGS
MOLD DETECTION & INSPECTION GUIDE
ODORS GASES SMELLS, DIAGNOSIS & CURE
PAINT & STAIN GUIDE, EXTERIOR
PAINT FALURE, DIAGNOSIS, CURE, PREVENTION
PAINT FAILURE DICTIONARY
PORCHES & Sunrooms
PORCH CONSTRUCTION & SCREENING
RAILINGS, DECK & PORCH
RETAINING WALL DESIGNS, TYPES, DAMAGE
RETAINING WALL GUARD RAILINGS
ROOF COLOR RECOMMENDATIONS
ROOF VENTILATION SPECIFICATIONS
ROT RESISTANT LUMBER
SEPTIC SYSTEM INSPECT DIAGNOSE REPAIR
SIDING TYPES, INSTALLATION, DEFECTS
SOUND CONTROL in buildings
STAIN DIAGNOSIS on BUILDING EXTERIORS
STAIN DIAGNOSIS on BUILDING INTERIORS
STAIRS, RAILINGS, LANDINGS, RAMPS
SURFACE GRADING, SITE DRAINAGE
THERMAL EXPANSION of MATERIALS
TREES & SHRUBS, TRIM OFF BUILDING
TRIM, EXTERIOR CHOICES, INSTALLATION
VAPOR BARRIERS & CONDENSATION in BUILDINGS
VENTILATION in BUILDINGS
VINYL CHLORIDE HEALTH INFO
VINYL SIDING or WINDOW PLASTIC ODORS
VOCs VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS
WALL CONSTRUCTION BARRIER vs CAVITY
WATER BARRIERS, EXTERIOR BUILDING
WATER ENTRY in BUILDINGS
WINTERIZE A BUILDING
How to Inspect Double-Wides, Mobile Homes, Trailers or Manufactured Housing for Defects:
Detailed procedures, defect lists, references to standards. Here we explain where to look for costly or dangerous problems on mobile homes, trailers, or double-wides.
We address all of the major parts and systems of mobile home structures and suggest field inspection procedures as well as common hidden problem and common repair procedures.
Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2015 InspectApedia.com, All Rights Reserved.
Ver.14 , updated through 2014 - Steve Vermilye, New Paltz NY and Daniel Friedman, Poughkeepsie NY, Hudson Valley ASHI Chapter Seminar, Newburgh NY, January 4, 2000, NY Metro ASHI Fall 99 Seminar, Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza, White Plains NY, October 2, 1999.
With deep sorrow we report that our friend and associate, Steven T. Vermilye of New Paltz NY (photo at the top of this page) passed away on 19 June 2001, so of course you will have difficulty contacting him by normal means.
Steve was a leader in the home inspection profession, recognized nationally as well as among New York State professional home inspectors for his competence, kindness, honesty, humility, humor, and for his unequivocal commitment to the welfare of his clients.
Steve led our interest in mobile home inspections by offering us an opportunity to join with him to work pro-bono in behalf of agricultural workers in the Hudson Valley -- a service which we continue in his memory.
Definitions: If you are not sure if your home is a mobile home, trailer, double-wide, caravan, or a modular or panelized-built or factory built home, please see DEFINITIONS of Mobile Home, Doublewide, Modular, Panelized Construction
We found so many unsafe and un-healthy conditions in the trailers and mobile homes occupied by migrant farm workers that there was almost no safe habitable housing at the facility.
The facility owner, responding to suggestions from our report and from the N.Y. Office of the Attorney General and an attorney representing farm workers made extensive improvements in farm worker housing as a result of Steve's initiative.
Many of the photographs used to illustrate defects and needed repairs at these mobile homes, trailers, and double-wides came from Steve or from our own photos when we worked together.
We all miss Steve Vermilye and his passing remains a great loss. If the information in this report assists anyone in assuring that their home is more safe and secure than it would have been otherwise, that benefit is thanks to Steven Vermilye -- this information is one of his many gifts to the people for whom he cared deeply -- Daniel Friedman.
Consumer Reports (2/98) points out common weak spots surveyed and recommends that buyers hire a home inspector. But many inspectors are not familiar with the special problems found in mobile homes.
Definitions: What is a Mobile Home, Trailer, Camper, Doublewide mobile home, Modular Home, Factory-Built Home, Panelized-Construction-Built Home?
These terms are defined at Trailer vs Mobile Home vs Modular vs Panelized Construction an explanation of terms and how to identify these structures.
The double-wide home shown at left, as seen from a distance, appears to be in good condition, but only on close and thorough inspection can we become confident about the condition of and potential safety hazards at any home.
Trailer or mobile home foundations and tie-downs are discussed in detail at MOBILE HOME STABILIZING SYSTEMS
OTHER COMMON MOBILE HOME & TRAILER DEFECTS
Definitions: What is a Mobile Home, Trailer, Doublewide, Modular Home, Factory-Built Home, Panelized-Construction-Built Home?
The following is the opinion of the author and has not had a technical review by other industry experts. Various trailer, mobile home, and modular housing manufacturers may disagree with some of these views. Corrections and content suggestions are welcome.
Trailer traditionally describes a usually small, wheeled, home with a history and image of flimsy construction such as wooden 1x3 wall framing clad with aluminum siding, virtually no insulation, and low quality leaky windows.
"Trailers" up until the 1970's (my estimate) included both campers which really were intended to be towed by a car or truck and moved often from site to site (though some were left parked for decades at campgrounds), and also lightweight factory-made homes which were intended to be towed once to a home site and then kept there.
Our photo (left) shows a trailer that was finally abandoned as a living space. The little blue structure used as an addition to the left of the small house in the photo at the top of this page was undoubtedly a small camper.
No one building "trailers" calls them that any longer because of the "flimsy" image. The closest thing to a "trailer" in current products on the market are motor homes and campers. The least-costly campers (such as our pickup truck "slide-on camper") built after 2000 are probably considerably better constructed than the "trailers" of old.
In current language (2009), a "trailer" is either a "mobile home" that is more than 20 years old (see below), or it is a camper designed to be moved easily and often from site to site. (Or in different usage, a "utility trailer" is a utility vehicle intended to haul goods or large items and designed to be fastened to the back of a car or truck, and a "tractor trailer" is of course a larger (typically 40 ft long) hauling system for moving goods by highway from city to city.)
Trailers may have had their wheels left on, but normally they'd be set on a masonry pier foundation and a skirt installed around to hide the under-trailer area.
In the past few decades (to 2014), "trailer" manufacturers have considerably improved the quality of construction of such homes. The national manufacturing and building code standards for these structures have also been improved.
Perhaps in part to escape the less than wholesome image of "trailer", manufacturers use the term "mobile home" to describe what is usually larger and better made home than "trailers" of old, though perhaps with similar materials.
Mobile homes are built in a factory and are designed to be moved (once and uncommonly, perhaps once again) on its own wheels attached to its own frame to a site where a foundation is prepared and connections to utilities are made. In the U.S., states have regulations about the siting, foundation, steps and entry, wiring, plumbing, tie-downs for wind and storm safety that apply to these homes.
Some examples of mobile home regulations for New York State are this website. Individual state regulations will vary - you'll want to see what your state requires. Even within states regulations vary as wind and weather conditions do also.
Examples of mobile home improvements include stronger overall wall and roof construction, less leaky roof covering, and windows that are less notoriously leaky. In addition newer mobile homes have, for fire safety, bedroom windows that can be pushed out to a wide opening for emergency exit in case of fire - an important safety improvement.
Usually building departments grandfather in older structures, but sometimes they will insist that certain life-safety improvements be made, for example if an older mobile home is being brought to a new site in a new community. If this is the case one or two windows may need to be replaced to provide this important safety improvement.
When there is a severe storm or hurricane, mobile home communities are among the worst damaged as a strong wind can completely turn over or demolish mobile homes. For this reason, mobile homes set up in high wind-risk zones have extra requirements for tie-downs to secure the building against upset during a storm.
Mobile homes may arrive on wheels but they will be jacked enough to be set on some type of approved building foundation, such as masonry piers or a masonry foundation.
In case these terms are not confusing enough, some mobile home makers like to call these "factory built homes". But that use of "factory-built homes" is confusing too since modular homes are also "factory built" but are quite different from trailers or mobile homes.
Some manufacturers provide mobile homes constructed to be joined together, side by side to form a double-width living unit. While a double-wide mobile home is basically constructed by the same materials and methods just described above, the tie-down and connection requirements for these living units may be different in some jurisdictions, since their risk of being blown away in high winds is different.
Other installation and support requirements, such as connection of the two units and placement of foundation support will also have to accommodate this variation.
Mobile Home Moisture & Leak Troubles
Question: How can I track down what's causing high moisture in a doublewide manufactured home?
I have a double wide manufactured home that I'm renovated. It has vinyl siding and perforated soffits common on manufactured homes. We've noticed moisture high in the walls all around the home and can't identify the cause. Any ideas? Thank you, - T.B. - Colorado
A competent onsite inspection by an expert usually finds additional clues that help accurately diagnose a problem with too much moisture in a home. That said, gee, with absolutely no information whatsoever about the home you mention, I'd be just arm-waving to offer a specific diagnosis.
But I can suggest some directions of investigation for tracking down a moisture problem:
Generally the approach is to find the water sources and water or moisture traps.
That is, high indoor moisture, enough to put condensation on walls, might be tracked down to one or both of:
If I'm right that you're in Colorado, you're not in such a high humidity area as the Southeastern U.S. That in turn makes me wonder if there is not either water below the home or leaks in or into it from roof, windows or doors (notorious leakers on older manufactured homes).
If the moisture is uniform around all of the interior of the home I suspect it could be coming from a source that would equally wet the whole structure - below the entire structure up through floors, or leaks across a wide area of roof. Observing moisture high on walls may just indicate where the cool walls are in contact with warmer, high-moisture-content air inside the home. (Warm moist air rises).
If your renovation permits, you might need to make some test cuts to be sure you know where water is and is not, and to be sure you're not renovating by putting a new skin over a rotting or inset infested structure.
Sorry I can't be smarter but that's about as much arm-waving as I can dare with no more information. If you'd like to send some photos or further description of what's there and what you're seeing, that may permit some further suggestions.
At WATER ENTRY in BUILDINGS we collect a series of building moisture or water entry diagnosis & cure articles that might be helpful.
Follow-Up: wet walls traced to frost or ice in the home eaves and attic
Thanks for the reply. I managed to find a manufactured home installer who immediately knew what I was talking about. It turns out all this is a universal problem with manufactured homes (and some stick built homes) in cold, high wind areas.
The soffits are vented continuously. Snow actually drifts inside the soffit then, when the weather warms, melts and some water runs down the walls. As this can happen many days after the initial precipitation it’s often mistaken for a condensation issue.
The installer didn't have any suggestions for a solution. In fact, he said if I came up with anything to let him know. Any ideas?
We have seen several points of frost or even ice accumulation at house eaves and even deeper into the attic in uninsulated HVAC ductwork.
Clues that point to the attic ice or frost accumulation as the source of indoor leaks and moisture
I think a diagnostic clue that can help track down apparent building leaks or moisture on walls that originates in the attic may be the observation of leaks in a warming weather trend after a long cold spell. Also the moisture shows up only on the exterior walls, not on building interior walls. It doesn't have to be snow blowing into the soffits - which is unusual; anything that allows moisture condense, collect, and freeze in the attic or in attic HVAC ducts can produce such leaks when things thaw out.
The cause your installer cited, snow drifts in the soffits, is possible but more common are some of these other problems that can produce the same symptoms:
How do we fix these problems of ice and frost formation in the attic ... it depends. First let's accurately diagnose the cause by a careful inspection in the attic. Wind-wash will be obvious - insulation will have been disturbed. Ice dam leaks leave characteristic stains that we illustrate in that article.
Details about these attic frost, ice, or moisture problems that show up as "leaks or moisture on building walls" and how they are fixed are in the articles cited above.
At Inspect Attics for Moisture or Mold we discuss inspecting (and correcting) building attics for evidence of condensation, moisture, or even ice.
Continue reading at MOBILE HOME CODES & STANDARDS or select a topic from the More Reading links shown below.
Suggested citation for this web page
Green link shows where you are in this article series.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Question: Who is responsible for the mailbox serving my mobile home ?
problem who is responsible for mail boxes the property owner o the resident ? email@example.com
Question: how do I get someone to inspect our doublewide, and how much will it cost
I am interested in buying a 1989 doublewide manufactured home in a retirement community in Hudson, Florida. I want to have it inspected. Where should I go to find a reliable manufactured home inspector in that area ?
Anon, I'd start outside the home, inspecting the roof and roof edges for evidence of leaks or animal entry.
Question: horrible tuna fish smell from double wide home ceilings
I bought a 2008 double wide and i have this terrible smell that smells like tuna that seems to be coming from the ceilings? - Anonymous 7/15/2012
Anon, at ODORS & SMELLS DIAGNOSIS & CURE we provide procedures for tracking down and curing smells and odors in buildings. In your home, I'd also inspect outside as well as inside for evidend of leaks into the roof / ceiling structure, or animal entry there. Check first for safe and un-blocked heating and ventilation flues as a blockage there by a dead animal would also be unsafe.
Aside from animals, leaks into the ceiling could have produced a mold problem.
Don't forget to inspect and check in the crawl space too - odors travel in structures so you could be fooled about a source.
Question: do mobile homes have an attic?
we r currently buying a 1971 dw mobile home, it has been bricked in. this type of mobile home have a attic? - q Cecilia Jones 8/6/2012
Question: Rental-unit double-wide mobile home with no insulation, no heat, flickering lights: is this normal?
Do these come pre trimmed in the inside? Or do I have to pull them off and insulate underneath them? Im renting and its costing me 600 a month to heat. I don't think the renters insulated it at all. I pull a piece of trim from around the slider door and no insulation there. The pipes, no caulk or anything. I can throw a penny down to the ground from the bath pipes. It is a double wide. The house has a gap in the floor where it looks like the house is coming apart. I can stick a long needle rite threw it to the ground. - Kevin 8/13/12
Do Double wide Mobile come pre trimmed to the sellers in the inside? Or do the businesses that sell them have to have to pull them off and insulate underneath them? I'm renting a 2004 and its costing me $500-$600 a month to heat. I don't think the renters insulated it at all. I pulled a piece of trim from around the slider door and no insulation there. I put my hand underneath the cement foundation and the floor. No insulation there as well.
The heat comes out semi cold. It only has a 56000 BTU heater and is new. But.. This seems low for a 40X60 or 40X70 Im not sure which one this is. But it runs for house trying to get the house warm. The dishwasher water freezes in the inside of it during the winter. I tried pulling it out to see why. But its hooked in. Cold air rushes from the light sockets to where it blows a lighter out. I came from a 3 story victory. So I know little about pre-manufactured homes. The pipes, no caulk or anything. I can throw a penny down to the ground from the bath pipes. I have caulked around it now.
The house has now formed a gap in the floor where it looks like the house is coming apart. I can stick a long needle rite threw the carpet it to the ground. Is the house just settling? Also the electric is $300-to $400 a month. The light bulbs flash like a strobe light all the time. They had a 12,000 volt cow fence hooked and water for their 50 head of cows in when we got here. After paying for that (unknowingly) for 6-8 months I realized that it was hooked in.
When I turn off the electric to the house. The fence and water would turned off. So they put in a separate pole. But the lights still flicker and the fuse box blows fuses all the time (for no reason) like if I have the washer on. I have two small girls. The renters say this is all normal. - Computer Geekz - 8/13/12
Regarding your mobile home codes & standards question, please see MOBILE HOME CODES & STANDARDS.
FAQs about the properties of double-wide homes:
Do these [double wide homes] come pre trimmed in the inside?
- Yes double-wide and mobile homes are usually sold completely finished, including wall and ceiling, coverings, trim, appliances, and fixtures. However depending on the manufacturer it may be possible to buy these units without some of these features installed, intended to be finished by a buyer. A typical example might be leaving out carpeting and offering carpet choices.
Do I have to pull them [wall finishes, ceiling finishes, trim] off and insulate underneath them in a double-wide?
- No it would be unusual for a completed double-wide home to be sold uninsulated unless it were a specially-contracted version as I've mentioned above. And it would make no sense whatsoever to complete a home's interior finishing, trim, wall coverings etc., and then expect a buyer to tear these off in order to insulate the structure. Also in our OPINION it is not normal for a tenant renting a double-wide or mobile home to be expected to insulate, install heat, install electrical wiring.
The heat [in my double-wide] comes out semi cold.
- This is not a normal nor proper condition. Either your heating system is not working and needs repair, or as you suggest, your unit was not properly constructed and insulated, perhaps routing heating air ducts through a cold, uninsulated space. I can only SPECULATE that perhaps your home was contracted for and sold as an incomplete unit, or was sold for and moved from a different climate.
The light bulbs [in my double-wide home] flash like a strobe light all the time.
- Watch out: You are describing an unsafe condition that includes risk of overheating electrical circuits, amateur or improper electrical wiring, and a risk that could include a fire, personal injury, property loss or even death. As you say you are a tenant, not the property owner, our advice is
Keep us posted on how things progress - what we learn may help other readers. I've kept your questions here because this is where you posted them and we want you to find our reply But details about how mobile homes and double-wide homes are built, inspected, and maintained is at MOBILE HOMES, DOUBLEWIDES, TRAILERS.
I crawled underneath today. There is nothing there. No blanket insulation......(nothing) lol WOW - Computer Geekz - 8/15/12
Question: Clayton mobile home does not match blueprints
(Oct 28, 2011) michael lavalle said:
the claton home that was delivered is not what i order .blue prints all wroung
(Mar 6, 2012) Plumbing los gatos said:
I have learned something new from you this morning Daniel. I have worked with a great many different plumbing systems over the years, but I had never heard of this system before. I have printed this one out and have added it to my plumbing information binder.
Los Gatos: thanks for the note; I'm not sure what new topic you refer to, but glad to be of use; we welcome questions about our website articles and are glad to research further to work on answers when needed. It benefits everyone. Daniel
Question: knocking sound in home blamed on low water pressure - when the furnace kicks on
(Mar 17, 2014) Jeani said:
We have a 1987 Holiday Manor double wide that we love except for the noisy heating system. Right before the furnace kicks on, there is a knocking sound that travels throughout the house starting out slow and getting faster and faster as it moves through the rooms. It's loud enough that it wakes us up at night. Any suggestions?
It's a natural gas furnace and is the original one that came with the house. We had a local heating contractor check it out and their explanation was that the water pressure is too low. They put in a backflow preventor and a shut off valve off the water line so you don't have to drain the furnace to service the whole system but didn't have any other solution. Any suggestions? The heat works, but boy oh boy, the noise is awful!
Low water pressure to a building would not normally affect the operation of a heating boiler; a service tech might indeed check water level and pressure in the boiler itself to be sure it's within normal operating levels and pressures (typically 12 psi when the boiler is cold).
Search InspectApedia for "heating system noises" for articles offering further help. Indeed banging radiator pipes or baseboards can be common on heating systems.
Question: how do I figure out who made my manufactured home?
How can I find the name of the manufacturer and model, and possibly a serial number of a 1971 manufactured home? The title says Make: MALB, Body: HS. The home now has vinyl siding so any label is concealed.
Sharon, in the article above at
MOBILE HOME LABELS - Mobile Homes and Manufactured Housing Labels & Certifications
we list some locations where you might find the data tag on your mobile home - that's where the manufacturer should be identified. On a home as old as yours there may be no tag. At that point I'd start asking my neighbors who have similar-aged homes.
Question: structural connections, movement, separations, repairs for a double-wide home
(Apr 30, 2014) Anonymous said:
I have a older double wide and am doing floor repair work. The center two joists are connected with a long spick at an angle. The bottom is flush but there is a gap of about one inch on the top. What do I do ? leave it as is or bolt the top together ?
(Apr 30, 2014) DanJoeFriedman (mod) said:
Anon I'm sorry but I don't have a clear enough idea of what's going on with the structure of the doublewide to be confident of an answer. I can say in general that structural connections are very important to prevent a building collapse or to prevent dangerous movement that an open a gas line or rip an electrical wire.
I can't tell if the gap you describe has been there since original construction or if it indicates more worrisome ongoing movement.
If you are referring to the mating of the joists of the two halves of the doublewide at the center of the floor structure, it'd be normal for them to be bolted together. If they're through-bolted securely, say 18" on center (I'm not an engineer) I think they'd be quite secure.
Thanks for your quick response. The floor joists are not bolted together, but are connected with a spike driven at an angle of about 20 degrees from horizontal. The bottom of the joists are flush but the tops are separated by about an inch. I am wondering if I should bolt them at the top to bring them together again, or whether I am better off leaving things as they are.
I don't know how long the gap between the joists has existed. It is a 1979 unit that I bought a couple of years ago and I recently discovered the issue with the joists when I tore up some damaged sub-flooring.
Picture two floor structures, say wood-framed, with their perimeter rim joists bolted together at the center of the combined area.
Picture a floor support on piers set both beneath the combined rim joist center girder and the outer perimeter rim joists that run parallel to the nailed-together center.
Imagine that the outer perimeter piers or foundation settled downwards beneath one or both of the floor sections.
That sort of settlement *could* explain the center joist separation you describe. If investigation shows that that's the case (start by checking for out of level floors), the trying to pull the nailed-together center joists with bolts would be futile and risks separating the rim joist from the floor joists.
Let me know what you find. Send along some sharp photos using our CONTACT link and I can comment further.
Question: what will it cost to remodel a 1995 mobile home single wide inside and out
(5 days ago) Frankie Neal said:
Need to know what will it cost to remodel a 1995 mobile home single wide inside and out
Frankie, without knowing a shred of information about the home, I'm afraid any cost guess would be just arm waving. More, we don't know what underlying issues will be found, not even the size, type, age of the home. But a fair rule in remodeling is to figure the end cost will be as much as twice the original estimate.
Question: how to figure out if the mobile home is livable
5/26/14 Mac said:
I'm having some trouble getting any ideas on if my mobile home that I'm renting is even considered livable. I'm not technically in a park, so there doesn't seem to be any information regarding what the codes would be. I already know I've been mislead about the condition of the place, and that IS on me, but I am seeing increasing evidence that the home is not water tight, I know the roof is bad, and I believe I can go right through the pop-out wall if I wanted to. There is packing tape slapped over a large hole in the wall and painted over, so I missed finding that on my walk through, but a lot of the north side of the home seems to have rot in the walls. This is at least a 78, maybe a 75 era mobile, and the master bedroom on the front got destroyed by a fallen tree a few years before I moved in.
Thank you in advance,
Mac, indeed leaks n older mobile homes are common at roofs,moron edges, windows, doors, and can rot the structure as well as even the floor - meaning the home could be unsafe. Sometimes I find that a careful inspection from below, with a food light,mlooking for leak stains, can give an idea of the areas and extent of leakage.
Use the "Click to Show or Hide FAQs" link just above to see recently-posted questions, comments, replies, try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.
Search the InspectApedia website
HTML Comment Box is loading comments...
Technical Reviewers & References