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STRUCTURAL INSPECTIONS & DEFECTS
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CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR
COLUMNS & POSTS, DEFECTS
CONNECTORS, FASTENERS, TIES
DECK & PORCH CONSTRUCTION
DEFINITIONS of MOBILE HOME, DOUBLEWIDE, MODULAR, PANELIZED CONSTRUCTION
DEFINITIONS of ENGINEERED WOOD OSB LVL etc
DISASTER BUILDING INSPECTION & REPAIR
EARTHQUAKE DAMAGED FOUNDATIONS
FIRE DAMAGE vs MOLD DAMAGE
FLOOD DAMAGE ASSESSMENT, SAFETY & CLEANUP
FOOTING & FOUNDATION DRAINS
FOUNDATION CRACKS & DAMAGE GUIDE
FRAMING DAMAGE, INSPECTION, REPAIR
GRADING, DRAINAGE & SITE WORK
HOUSE PARTS, DEFINITIONS
INSECT INFESTATION / DAMAGE
KIT HOMES, Aladdin, Sears, Wards, Others
LOG HOME GUIDE
MOBILE HOMES, DOUBLEWIDES, TRAILERS
MODULAR HOME CONSTRUCTION
MOISTURE CONTROL in BUILDINGS
PORCH CONSTRUCTION & SCREENING
PRE-CUT & KIT HOMES
RETAINING WALL DESIGNS, TYPES, DAMAGE
ROT, FUNGUS, INSECT DAMAGE
SINKHOLES, WARNING SIGNS
STAIRS, RAILINGS, LANDINGS, RAMPS
STRAW BALE CONSTRUCTION
STRESS SKIN INSULATED PANELS
STRUCTURAL WOOD ASSESSMENT
TIMBER FRAMING, ROT
TRUSSES, Floor & Roof
WATER ENTRY in BUILDINGS
WOOD STRUCTURE ASSESSMENT
This article gives details about the standard or traditional size and spacing of wood framing members in residential construction. By taking a look at the actual dimensions of framing lumber as well as its spacing you can often determine the age of a building or of its various parts.
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What are the actual sizes of dimensioned lumber studs, rafters, and joists?
In North America, up to about 1930 it was common for dimensional lumber to be full-sized - a 2x4 was really 2" x 4" in cross section. Modern wood framing wall studs 2x4's (a modern dimensional lumber "two by four" is actually 1.5" thick by 3.5" wide) and larger members (x" deep by 1.5" thick).
Common Spacing Intervals for Dimensioned Lumber Framing Studs, Joists, Rafters
Here are some common intervals or spacings used in frame construction in North America.
Here is a photograph of post and beam framing with joint number markings.
The observation of framing materials, framing markings, and framing styles provides considerable information about the probable age of a house.
We discuss framing materials and styles here as an aid to house age determination.
Also see our article on " Saw Cuts and Tool Marks" (links at the "More Reading" links at the bottom of this article ).
Log framing and both modern and antique log construction are discussed at Log Home Guide.
Antique and modern trusses are distinguished and modern laminated beams and I-truss beams and wood joists are discussed.
Keep in mind that even when we can identify specific types of building materials and building methods, precise dating of the time of construction of a building remains difficult: old building materials were often re-used, so beams, siding, and other components may appear in a building built later than when the materials were first made.
Also, in the U.S. various states had machines for making cut nails, screws, and sawmills at different times. For example, New York State was industrialized earlier than some western or southern states, so machine-made nails appear earlier in New York than elsewhere.
History of U.S. Lumber Standards Since 1900
Below, quoting a US FPL article & courtesy John McDaniel and Paul DeBaggis is a historical document published by the Forest Products Laboratory report entitled "History of Yard Lumber Sizes Standards". Mr. DeBaggis points out that The first national U.S. lumber standard was composed in 1924. Apparently from nearly from the beginning, 4 inches was not quite 4 inches when citing lumber dimensions.
Prior to 1970 the size of a 2x4 was 1-5/8 x 3-5/8 and a 2x8 was 1-5/8 x 7-1/2 regardless of the moisture content.
The sizes of standard dimensional lumber changed in 1970 when separate size standards for dry and green lumber, under nominal 5-inch thickness were established.
In 1970 the minimum dressed size was related to moisture content and this lead to a dry (19% MC or less) 2x4 being 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 and a 2x8 being 1-1/2 x7-1/4; a green (over 19% MC) 2x4 being 1-9/16 x 3-9/16 and a 2x8 being 1-9/16 x 7-1/2.
Prior to 1970 the lumber standard was called Simplified Practice Recommendation R 16 and after 1970 the lumber standard was called Voluntary Product Standard 20 (PS 20). This history of the lumber standard can be found in Appendix D of that document. The history of U.S. lumber standards is summarized below.
Changing Wood Framing Span Tables & Modern Framing Lumber Strength
As we comment at DIMENSIONAL LUMBER,
Our opinion is that modern dimensional lumber is not the same product as it was in 1833 or even 1940. Modern 2x lumber is produced from trees that have been developed to grow rapidly to a size at which they can be harvested. Rapid tree growth means wide-spaced growth rings which may mean softer, weaker wood than dense-grained first-cut timbers or lumber. That combined with the increasing number of knots (as 2x's are cut from ever smaller trees) means that the building frame must rely on additional materials (such as plywood or OSB sheathing) for a critical part of its strength.
Paul DeBaggis commented further at the start of 2014:
The Southern Forest Products Association (SFPA) current (2014) suggested lumber spans are found at http://www.southernpine.com/span-tables/ The SPB provides this disclaimer about these recommended joist and rafter tables, wood framing member size tables, and allowable load tables:
Also see FRAMING TABLES, SPANS.
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about framing damage & the proper size & spacing of wood framing beams, joists, rafters
Reader Question: how to deal with a floor joist that is arched upwards
I have a floor joist in our cottage I’m about to install a bathroom in. During the inspection and layout, we have one joist directly under where the tub will go which rises approximately ¾ to 1”. I look through several articles, but only find this brought up on roof trusses.
I am proposing to fix this by bolting a metal angle iron on the joist, then a 4x4 post on the bottom side, then connect the two using nuts and all-thread. After connection, tighten the system till the joist comes back in line with the other joist.
My alternative is to cut the joist from top, till near the bottom, then applying a sister joist on the side of the cut a minimal of 3’ on each side.
This joist is under the house, therefore have room to apply the 4x4 post on the bottom side. Any input would be appreciated. - J.D.B. 11/18/2013
The arched roof trusses you mentioned (TRUSS UPLIFT, ROOF) are a special case of arching that probably does not pertain to a bathroom floor - rather that arching is traced to temperature and moisture variations caused by burying the bottom chord of a roof truss in insulation. The result can be cracks at the ceiling/wall juncture.
You are describing an arched floor joist that occurred for a different reason, possibly simply that when the framer (quite correctly) placed the joists "arch up", one of them was particularly arched or curved. The effort you describe to pull the arched floor joist down into position seems a bit more than necessary to me, and possibly risks some future arch-back that messes up the bathroom.
With the warning that I don't have a complete picture of the building, structure, age, condition of framing, cause of the "Rise" in one floor joist - all of which could change the recommendation, in general, if you simply have a single floor joist that happened to be more arched than its neighbors, and presuming we're talking about standard floor framing, 2x10s for example, I would not hesitate to simply chop off the arch with a power saw, getting back to a sufficiently level floor that when the subfloor is installed things will be flat and level.
IF the framing is sub-standard in dimension, for example some older homes used 2x8's or even 2x6's for floor framing, you may indeed want to add joists or sister joists.
IF you find that the joist arched because of some structural damage or problem, I'd look into that further before just making things nice and flat.
IF you are planning on a ceramic tile floor and the joists are smaller in depth you may want to add joists or sisters anyway - to be sure the floor doesn't flex - it depends of course also on the spans. In that event take a look at FLOOR FRAMING & SUBFLOOR for TILE and also FRAMING TABLES, SPANS (where the deck joist spans are typically required to have the same load-bearing properties as the interior building floors)
Questions & answers or comments about the proper spacing for wood framed buildings: what is the proper spacing for wall studs, rafters, floor joists, ceiling joists for common framing member sizes or dimensions. Framing tables for wood construction.
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