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Photograph of a substantial settlement crack in poured concrete.Foundation Repair Methods FAQs-2
Recent Q&A on Approaches to Repairing Foundation Damage

  • POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about foundation repair methods and procedures: repairs to foundation cracks, gaps, movement, tipping, leaning, settlement, or footing damage

Questions & answers about foundation damage repair methods for bowing, cracking, leaning, settling or other types of foundation damage:

These foundation repair questions and answers help understand three foundation repair topics: the proper approach to diagnosing the cause and effects of foundation damage: the two first steps in deciding on item three, the proper foundation repair method.

This article series discusses How to Repair Damaged Foundations, Foundation Cracks, Slab Cracks, Bowed, Buckled, Leaning Foundation Walls, Settled Floors.

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Recent Foundation Damage or Crack Repair FAQs2

Vertical foundatin crack, leaning wall (C) Inspectapedia.com JaniceThese questions and answers were posted originally at FOUNDATION REPAIR METHODS - home - that's a good place to start deciding on what, if any, foundation repair is needed.

Photo: significant vertical cracking at a poured concrete foundation wall corner, wider at top than bottom, indicating wall leaning or movement, meriting further investigation. See Janice's q&a below.

On 2018-11-21 by (mod) - Diagnose the problem before specifying the foundation repair

Susan

I don't assume that the right repair to foundation damage is to lift the house, though jacking might be necessary to repair or replace a foundation in some situations.

We need to start with answers to some basic questions:

1. what foundation damage has occurred? How significant is it?

2. what other effects of the structure have occurred, such as pulling apart framing or mechanical connections?

3. Over what time has the movement or damage occurred?

4. What is the underlying cause of the damage?

5. Therefore what foundation or other building repairs are needed to respond to the damage?

6. What repairs or changes at the site are needed to stop further foundation damage?

No one with a shred of competence or honesty should pretend she can answer those questions without an expert inspection of the property. I just can't see enough from your etext.

FOUNDATION DAMAGE SEVERITY may be helpful

To understand the cause, effect, and remedy for all types of building foundation or masonry wall damage or movement we have categorized foundation damage into these broad categories:

  1. FOUNDATION FAILURES by MOVEMENT TYPE: is the movement active or not, how is the foundation moving: bulging, leaning, settling, etc. ?
  2. FOUNDATION FAILURES by TYPE & MATERIAL: how does damage show up in different types of foundation material & what are the implications for collapse risk or repair need?
  3. FOUNDATION CRACK DICTIONARY, what is the severity of foundation damage, what is its effect on the stability of the structure, and how urgently are foundation repairs needed?
  4. FOUNDATION REPAIR METHODS discusses alternative ways to fix a damaged foundation or floor slab crack or movement

On 2018-11-21 2 by susan

The house I want to purchase is from 1950. There is a section of foundation wall pushing in from the outside.

Also there is a crack in foundation in another room same wall. How much to repair? My contractor quoted me $25,000.

What can go wrong when the house is lifted? What could be my potential cost?

On 2018-11-03 by (mod) - If only the slab is sinking in the foundation isn't damaged

If only the slab is sinking in the foundation isn't damaged then it doesn't sound like there's a threat to the structure. That case there wouldn't be an urgent need for a repair, with this exception that you need to realize that if the slab heaves and you can't get a door open you could be trapped in the event of a fire.

On 2018-11-03 by john

Walk-out basement slabs are sinking in our 20-year old mountain home. Slabs are now 1" lower on the side of room nearest windows vs. other half of room. No cracks across slabs.

Beginning to see cracks in ceiling of main floor above. Foundation repair expert showed a foundation crack visible from the exit doors at both ends of the walk out basement (width of house).

Suggested 9 steel push piers along width of house & wrap the couple of feet on each end to the doors to stabilize. Cost $20k. Can we make it thru an upcoming freezing Idaho winter and do in spring? Does $20k seem reasonable? Hard to find a 2nd local repair company. Getting nervous!

On 2018-10-07 by (mod) - significant foundation movement, further investigation needed

Vertical foundatin crack, leaning wall (C) Inspectapedia.com JaniceThe fact that you see the crack expanding in winter could point to frost push - an outdoor drainage issue.

A reasonable guess for you to explore is Frost pressure on me other side of that wall. You might be able to reduce or even eliminate that if you can drive the area out and keep water away.

Of course you'll tell me if it's not an exterior wall.

SETTLEMENT vs. FROST HEAVE CRACKS may be helpful.

On 2018-10-07 by Janice

I want to finish my basement but I am concerned about a large crack. I have had numerous foundation professionals out and have been told they would use the fiber straps.

The crack expands in the winter (the crack becomes much larger than the photo I attached), the crack is larger on top and smaller on bottom .

The location is where the corner of the attached garage meets the house.

I don't want to "bandage" it without being sure of the cause. Any thoughts on this crack? Thanks in advance.

On 2018-09-21 1 by (mod) -

Thank John. Regrettably for you, your effort to sneak in an advertisement for your basement waterproofing company by including link is a step that is automagically blocked by our security software. We don't permit readers to post advertisements.

InspectAPedia.com is an independent publisher of building, environmental, and forensic inspection, diagnosis, and repair information provided free to the public - we have no business nor financial connection with any manufacturer or service provider discussed at our website. We do not sell products nor services.

We are dedicated to making our information as accurate, complete, useful, and unbiased as possible: we very much welcome critique, questions, or content suggestions for our web articles. Working together and exchanging information makes us better informed than any individual can be working alone.

On 2018-09-21 by (mod) -

John Brown said:
You have shared great suggestions for foundation crack repairing. I really liked it. I have found wet basement at my home. After investigation I found foundation crack in the basement. I was thinking to hire basement waterproofing contractor. You have shared a quick method to stop basement water entry through the foundation crack. I think it will help.

On 2018-04-24 by (mod) -

Muyah

I appreciate the suggestion but am a bit confused by it as well. A wall crack would not normally cause damage to the supporting foundation; rather or more-likely, foundation movement would result in a wall crack, from settlement, frost heaves, tipping, construction on improper fill.

You will find a complete catalog of types of foundation movement and damage, sorted both by movement type and by foundation materials, in the complete ARTICLE INDEX - find the live link and see

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to BUILDING STRUCTURES

On 2018-04-24 by MUYAH DERICK

With the help of images, show how a wall crack can affect a wide strip foundation and indicate the pattern of deformation at the cracked axis on the foundation.

On 2017-10-21 by Barry Santana

Thanks very much for your reply! First, I overestimated control joint crack width.

I put a ruler on the worst case cracks (near the center of the slab and found that they were 3/8" to 7/16" (a little confusing with the plastic Zip-strip showing). It was a troublesome placement.

The contractor had the forms on the edge of the slab fail and actually float in one corner. Not enough guys to reinforce forms, place concrete and pull wire mesh op to center of 4" slab. Except for the first quarter of slab placement, the wire mesh was left on the bottom.

The concrete floor slab is in Alaska. When I refer to insulation, I am referring to a double layer of 2" rigid board insulation placed below the concrete slab, to insulate the radiant heated floor slab from the ground.

The edges of the slab are also insulated in a similar manner. I just thought that the radiant heat cycling from 100 degF to 55 degF might have an influence on the amount of temperature and shrinkage cracking that has occurred at the control joints.

I'm thinking now, the fact the much of the reinforcement is at the bottom of the slab is the reason for some wider cracks (3/8" not 1" as I originally guessed).

I was thinking that I could fill the narrower cracks (1/16"-1/8") with a pourable material, like Black Jack Speed Fill and the wider cracks up to 7/16" with the Black Jack Speed fill in tubes (the manufacture says the tube material is about 4x the viscosity of the pourable material in bottles).

I am also considering Quikcrete Concrete Crack Seal in bottles as a better color choice. There seem to be several other products available and local availability will determine what I use. Any comments on whether I need a crack repair material or a calking material will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

On 2017-10-21 by (mod) - cracks in a control joint may be ok but not big ones

Barry,

Shrinkage cracks, usually very fine (in the 1/32" wide range) are very difficult to "fill" with masonry patch or concrete patch as the crack is so narrow. You'd need to cut the crack to allow a filler a mechanical bond. For those I prefer to leave them alone.

But a 1" shrinkage crack in a concrete slab is extreme and gives one to worry that the concrete was not properly mixed or placed or both - meaning that more problems may ensue.

For other readers, the Zip-Strip control joint device is a rigid polystyrene insert intended to provide straight control joints in slabs, walks, etc., sold by Superior Profiles -http://www.superiorprofiles.com/ - the strip is inserted into the concrete while the concrete is still wet.

(Details at http://www.superiorprofiles.com/zip-strip.html) According to the company, their smallest, 1" deep Zip-Strip control joint is suitable for slabs up to 6" thick.

We discuss control joints in detail starting at CONTROL JOINT CRACKS in CONCRETE https://inspectapedia.com/structure/Concrete_Control_Joints.php

I would need to see more and know more about your specific slab, but even where there are control joints, shrinkage cracks do not always follow the rules about where they are supposed to appear.

Just today I photographed a large walkway slab whose sections cracked in diagonals running away from the control joints. There I could see an explanation: an inside corner shaped pour. In other cases the cause of a wild shrinkage crack are less obvious.

But in no case is a 1" WIDE shrinkage crack normal. Something else is wrong, so I share your anticipation that there may be more slab cracking and movement and, if you live in a freezing climate, or where there are expansive clay soils or other external stresses, there are probably other cracks and other causes in the future of this floor.

See SHRINKAGE CRACKS in SLABS https://inspectapedia.com/structure/Concrete_Shrinkage_Cracks.php

Radiant heat tubing is not an "insulation" method but rather it's a heating system in which hot water carrying tubes are routed in the floor slab, usually near the slab top.

You should review RADIANT HEAT MISTAKES https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Radiant-Slab-Heat-Mistakes.php since it's possible that a radiant heat slab snafu is a contributor to the cracks you're seeing.

At CONCRETE SLAB CRACK REPAIR we describe slab crack repair options.

But I would be reluctant to leap to filling the cracks you describe without some more investigation about how the slab was poured, what reinforcement it contains, where the radiant heat tubing is installed - you want to have an idea of what's going on before choosing a repair time and method.

On 2017-10-19 2 by Barry Santana

The cracks vary from 1" to 1/32" in the monoslab. Widest cracks are near the center.

On 2017-10-19 by Barry Santana

What is the most aesthetic method to fill shrinkage cracks in a 4" concrete slab-on-grade? The slab was placed 2 years ago and the contractor used "Zip-strips" in an attempt to induce straight line shrinkage cracking. For the most part, cracks formed along the plastic strips in fairly straight lines, although diagonal cracking occurred as well at other locations

. I am assuming this slab will continue to move due to temperature changes and creep-induced movement, so a flexible solution is probably best. The slab is insulated with radien heat tubing.

On 2017-09-22 by (mod) -

Dani,

You can use the page top or bottom contact link to send us photos for comment. However I suggest that if the pures are as far apart as you say and one of them is tipping it would be probably a good idea to add support even if it were just temporary in order to make sure that the structure doesn't suddenly side or collapse.

On 2017-09-22 by daniwittmann

My parents house is on concrete pillars (spaced 20 feet apart). The corner pillar has moved. and at risk of falling. How do I add photos?

On 2017-05-20 by (mod) -

The article FOUNDATION REPAIR METHODS - home describes slab crack repair methods. But first you want to understand the crack cause, as that will guide repair choices.

Eg., if there is ongoing settlement you may need both slab support and corrections to roof or surface drainage. But a simple shrinkage crack, haairline, may not need repair at all.

On 2017-05-20 by Sheikpeer

How to repair the foundation when its cracks between pillar to pillar


...

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