 Water Softener Troubleshooting & Diagnostic Procedures
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Diagnose Water Softener Problems: this article describes procedures for diagnosing and repairing water softener or water conditioner problems including water conditioner control settings and adjustment or repair, brine tank and brine tank float cleaning and repair, and the proper amount of water softening or conditioning that is needed.
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Owner's Guide to Diagnosing A Water Softener that Is Not Working Properly
In addition to the questions & answers about water softener operating problems presented just below, additional water softener diagnosis and repair Q&As are at Questions and Answers about repairing water softeners and at SOFTENER ADJUSTMENT & CONTROLS.
Water Softener Checklist: if the Softener is Not Working Check These First
if the water softener doesn't seem to be doing anything,
check these items:
- Check the water softener bypass valve: You want first to see that the water softener is not on "bypass" - is household water flowing through the unit? A sketch of an Autotrol bypass valve is shown at left. Details about how to use this valve are at BYPASS VALVE.
This valve is an option and may not be installed on your unit. But there may be standard plumbing valves or globe valves that accomplish the same purpose.
- Check power to the water softener: If the unit uses electricity to run a timer be sure it's plugged in to a live outlet and has power. Some water conditioners use a low-voltage transformer to power the control - be sure that device is present, plugged in, and working. You can use a simple VOM to check that the transformer is outputting DC at the proper voltage level. See USING DMMs VOMs SAFELY
- Check salt tank: Is there salt in the salt tank?
- Manually regen cycle: Then try a manual regen cycle - you'll see on most units a lever you can push on the control box to start that process
- Set the water conditioner controls: Set the right doses and regen cycles for your water hardness and level of water usage
- Watch the water conditioner timer: it is possible that the timer mechanism itself has failed. You should see the timer wheels or clock wheels turning and, if you try setting a regen cycle at every day (just for starters) you should see and hear the system go through a regeneration cycle automatically the very next night.
- Feel and test the water supply: if you still can't get a lather when bathing the water may be insufficiently treated, or if the water feels slimy and you have trouble washing soap off, the water may be over-treated. Test the water for hardness so that you know how to set the controls.
How to Get a Water Softener Working & Confirm that It Works Correctly
Before replacing a water softener - a step that may not be necessary, here are some things to try:
- Make sure that the water softener is actually working, has electric power, valves turned on, not left on "bypass"
- Make sure the water softener is cleaned and that no debris is blocking any water passages or tubing. See Cleaning & Sanitizing the Water Softener. Also see Dirt & Debris in the Brine Tank.
- Make sure that the salt tank is properly filled. If the salt tank has stayed "full" for a long time, either no salt is being used (improper operation) or a crust of salt has formed over a virtually empty tank. Poke around into the salt to be sure the salt tank is really there. See Brine Tank Salt Crusting
- Use the water softener control to run the equipment through an extra cleaning/regeneration cycle.
- Watch the water softener control or check it frequently for several days to be sure the control is actually working and that it is cleaning and regenerating the water softener salt dose regularly. See DIAGNOSE SOFTENER BACKUP / FLOODING.
- Test the incoming water for hardness so that you know what level of treatment is required. See DETECT HARD WATER and MEASURE WATER HARDNESS
- Test the water softener output water for hardness and if you like, also test the output water salt level for excess salt
- Check the water softener control adjustments. If the equipment appears to be working, but water is still too hard (or has too much mineral content) you can increase the salt dose or the backwash/regeneration cycle frequency. See Water Softener Adjustment and Water Softener Regeneration Cycle. See DIAGNOSE SOFTENER BACKUP / FLOODING.
- If the water softener is leaving too much salt in the water, reduce the salt dose on your softener's controls. See HEALTH RISKS & WATER SOFTENERS and SALT OR WATER INTO SEPTIC
- If the equipment is not visibly broken, damaged, leaking, and/or you don't want to mess with it yourself, most water softener companies will be glad to send a service technician to your home to inspect, clean, adjust, and test the equipment.
Try these water softener diagnosis and repair steps before rushing to replace the water softener itself.
Too Much Water in the Brine Tank - Diagnosis and Cure
Question: I don't see a brine control valve and the water softener brine tank is too full of water. What should I check?
I did as you suggested and emptied and cleaned out the water conditioner brine tank, I notice that there is nothing in the tank except a 1/4 inch line for water and that is it, when I put it all together again it fill up to 3/4 full again and the salt was all submersed. In other words, my water softener brine tank does not seem to include a brine refill control valve. What else should I try.
Reply:
When we find that the brine tank on a water softener or water conditioner system seems to be too high, or the tank is flooded, there are several things to check. An accurate diagnosis of what's wrong with your water softener depends on the particular model water softener and what controls it uses.
Here are the most common reasons for finding too much water in the brine tank: [1]
- The drain line flow control is clogged with debris - the control needs to be cleaned
- The injector system is clogged - there is an injector and screen that need to be cleaned
- The water conditioner timer is not cycling properly - this problem means a new timer is needed
- There is crud "foreign material" inside of the brine level control valve - the valve can be disassembled and cleaned (if there is a valve)
- There is crud "foreign material" inside the brine line flow control - the flow control can be cleaned.
Here are a few other explanations for too much water in the softener brine tank:
- Missing brine level or regeneration control valve: your system has lost its entire Brine Refill Control Valve assembly (sketch at left from G.E. [2]) and it needs to be replaced.
In some water softener manuals you can see the "regenerant tank check valve" and a note - not provided, furnished as an option from the water conditioner system manufacturer. Note in this GE manual that some filter systems do not use the regenerant (brine) connection.
- Your system supposed to be using a different method of brine level control - and that control is missing or more likely, not working or not properly set. There are some water conditioner models that do not use a brine tank float valve. [2]
But you'll see that in no case does normal operation leave the water softener brine tank full of water. So if this is like your system the control on the conditioner is not working properly or not set properly. In other water conditioner manuals the manufacturer describes how the control is set to change the length of "brine tank refill time" - this is the same as the amount of water to be sent into the tank.
- Your system has a leak in the tubing between the brine tank and the water conditioner. Even a small leak can cause the regenerant (brine solution) to drain back into the brine tank when it is supposed to be flowing through the water conditioner. Check your tubing for leaks at the tubing connectors as well as through its length just to rule out this problem.
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- If your water softener system uses an air check valve (sketch at right, example from G.E. [2]) when it should not have one installed (some controls have a built-in air check valve) this can cause the system to stop drawing brine back into the conditioner before the brine tank is empty. Or the air check valve itself may be debris-clogged. Here is another air check valve sketch from According to G.E. [2]
- The regenerant line from the tank connects to the [air check] valve. Make the
connections and hand tighten. Be sure that the regenerant line is secure
and free from air leaks. Even a small leak may cause the regenerant line to
drain out, and the conditioner will not draw regenerant from the tank. This
may also introduce air into the valve causing problems with valve
operation.
- Most installations utilize a [brine tank] check valve. This is not necessary when
using the 255 valve with the built-in aircheck. Using a tank check valve
with the 255 valve with aircheck will result in premature checking of the
aircheck valve, before the tank is empty.
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Below we illustrate two other air check valves used on some brine level control systems such as GE [2] and Water Right.[1]
- Your system has a clogged or partly clogged drain tubing, or a too-small drain line piping, or a drain line not properly routed, resulting in abnormal brine water levels.
Bottom line: until we are sure we have correctly identified the water conditioner model, found its installation and operating manual, and made sure that it has all of the proper parts installed, trying to debug a problem with water level in the brine tank leaves us just guessing.
Give your water conditioner manufacturer a call - their contact information is right there in the water conditioner operating manual - and ask about your model and just what brine tank level controls it uses.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about Water Softener Problem Diagnosis
Question: White Deposits on Faucets: why does my water keep leaving water marks on my plumbing fixtures? Should I replace my water softener?
I currently have a water softener system in my home BUT, there are always water marks on my chrome fixtures and on my windows,mirrors,etc.
What can I do to improve this system or should I just replace it with a different one?
I realize that soft water does not mean non-staining water but I was hoping for better results.
Can you help of advise? - C.T.
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Reply: Diagnose, clean, adjust, and test your water softener before buying a new one
We speculate that there are several likely explanations for what you describe:
- The water softener is not working adequately or not properly adjusted, does not remove enough minerals, and minerals continue to be deposited on your fixtures
- The water softener is not adjusted properly and excess salt is being sent through your system, depositing salt on the fixtures.
- The water softener unit is old, dirty, and needs cleaning and perhaps also adjustment
- The water softener simply has stopped working - broken, perhaps leaking, clogged, or with a control that no longer functions.
- The water softener regeneration system is not working: no salt in the salt tank, or improper regeneration cycle or salt dose setting, or the regeneration control timer may be stuck. See DIAGNOSE SOFTENER BACKUP / FLOODING for an example of what can happen.
Watch out: too often a problem that could have been corrected by a simple adjustment, cleaning, or repair, is in stead "repaired" by installing new equipment.
Since a new water softener just installed is more likely to be clean and properly adjusted, the old problem may indeed go away, and you may think that replacement was needed, but if simple cleaning and adjustment of the old water softener would have been sufficient, you have faced an unnecessary expense.
Question: Why does my Water Softener Keep Running Longer Than it Should?
My water softener continues to run when no water is being drawn from anywhere in the house. Why is this happening? - Joe Hernandez, Brighten MI
Reply: What's the difference between normal water softener backwash regen cycle running and "stuck on" running?
Joe:
Causes of Long Water Softener Run or Regeneration Cycles
Normal Water softener regen cycle usually occurs when household water is not being drawn by occupants
What you describe might be normal if the water softener runs when no water is being used in the house but later stops itself. The water softener itself does not deliver water to your home. That is done by the water pump or incoming water supply. So when a water softener "runs" it is in its regeneration or "backwash" cycle during which the softener pumps water into a salt tank to make brine, then flushes the brine backwards through the water treatment tank, then flushes the brine out of the treatment tank.
Because during the regeneration cycle the water softener is on "bypass", any household water used by occupants during that interval is not treated or softened during the regeneration cycle. Therefore we usually set the water softener timer to process its regeneration cycle in the middle of the night - when no one is using water. That may be what you are hearing.
See HOW SOFTENERS WORK for details about how water softeners work.
See SOFTENER ADJUSTMENT & CONTROLS for advice on how to set the water softener timer and salt dose.
Stuck water softener runs continuously: what to do
On the other hand, if the softener actually seems to "run" or to be "stuck" in regeneration mode, running continuously, then its operating control needs to be repaired or replaced. Don't leave the softener running forever - doing so wastes water and if your home is connected to a private septic system it will also flood and damage the drainfield.
In an emergency if the water softener is "stuck" running water continuously I'd just unplug it and also perhaps set the control to bypass while (see Water Softener Bypass Valve) waiting for a water treatment company to perform the needed control repair.
Question: Why does the water conditioner take longer for drawing brine from the salt tank than for refilling the salt tank?
Can someone explain why, during a regeneration cycle, the time for drawing brine from tank is five times longer than refilling water into tank. That part of the cycle is drawing all of the water from tank and continues that cycle long after the brine tank is empty. This system was installed and setup by a water softener company who I'm assuming made all necessary tests. My new job is to maintain this system and insure proper operation. I had a stuck float in the brine tank which was repaired, than I forced a regeneration cycle and noticed the brine tank and cycle setup. - Bob
Reply: The water softener does not re-fill the brine tank with water immediately after drawing out brine
Bob, indeed it sounds as if the water softener control or perhaps the brine tank fill control is not working properly. Or maybe not.
Some water softeners do not pump water into the brine tank until the start of a regen cycle. In that case once brine has been drawn out of the tank you won't see water pumped back into the salt tank until the next regen cycle.
The water softener regeneration takes place by cycling salty water backwards through the treatment tank and out into a disposal drain, followed by some wash-out of brine from the treatment tank so that the household water is not full of salt.
So the regeneration cycle would be expected to run for the sum of the brine passage plus the flushout water passage - longer than just the time to remove the brine-water from the salt tank.
An abnormally long regen cycle past time that brine has been pumped out of the salt tank? Check the float.
But if the cycle is abnormally long compared to the exhaustion of the brine tank liquid, another possibility is the following: the softener is set to use a particular quantity of salt (in the form of brine water) based on water hardness and quantity used.
But if the float in the brine tank prevented sufficient water from entering the tank at the start of the regen cycle, then the softener control could find itself blithely pumping along, having exhausted the undersized salt dose but having no way to know that (the brine float is a mechanical device that has most often no direct communication with the actual electrically powered softener control).
So I'd make a double check that the un-stuck float in the brine tank is properly set in its height and free in its movement. See Float Adjustment in the Softener Brine Tank
Question: Water softener output smells like rotten eggs
Water softner just put in action after three years of sitting idle!cleaned filter"!now water smells like rotten eggs. - Terry 8/9/2011
Reply:
Terry, if water coming from your well smells like rotten eggs there is a problem with sulphur in the water supply and you probably need a separate water treatment system for that problem.
But if water from the well does not smell like sulphur, then the problem could be iron & bacterial contamination in the water softener itself. See SOFTENER CLEANING & SANITIZING for the steps to solve this problem.
Question: water softener overflows
water overflows - citation, 8/31/11
Reply:
Citation, see in the article above the section titled Water Softener Keep Running Longer Than it Should - your system overflowing may be due to
- a stuck control
- a crimpled or clogged water softener drain hose or pipe
- a brine tank float or control valve that is not shutting off water coming into the brine tank - see How to Adjust the Float Level in the Water Softener Brine Tank - if your water softener brine tank is overflowing the float control may be stuck. You should be able to remove, clean and replace the float to fix the problem.
- a leak in the brine tank
- See the water softener overrflow/backup diagnostics at DIAGNOSE SOFTENER BACKUP / FLOODING
Question: water softener brine tank not draining
Water softener has water stuck in tank, not draining. - Amy 9/19/11
Reply:
Amy, at DIAGNOSE SOFTENER BACKUP / FLOODING we describe how to diagnose & fix a water softener that is not draining properly. Typically the problem is a crimped drain line, a control not operating properly, or a stuck brine control float that is not allowing the regen cycle to function properly.
Question: discolored water after water softener regen cycle
AFTER REGENERATION CYCLE DISCOLORED WATER GETS IN THE SERVICE LINES TO HOME. CLEARS UP AFTER THE WATER IS USED FOR A LITTLE WHILE - Rodger 7/31/12
Reply:
Rodger, have you checked inside the brine tank to see if it's filthy - you may need to remove salt to see the crud collected at the tank bottom. See SOFTENER CLEANING & SANITIZING
Question: sudden increase in water softener salt usage
I have a twin tank and all of a sudden I am using tons of salt. Any ideas? - Joanne 8/16/12
Reply:
Joanne,
Check for a change to the salt dose or water softener backwash/regen cycle frequency on the unit controls
Check for a water softener stuck in backwash/regen cycle - see DIAGNOSE SOFTENER BACKUP / FLOODING and Water Softener Keep Running Longer Than it Should
Question: Lindsey Ecodyne Water softener settings
I have an Lindsey Ecodyne Water softener and I have cleaned out the brine tank and tubing. I can't figure out why my brine tank is not getting any water? The control head has only 2 knobs. One with the days and times and the other that says extra cycle. The day/time knob says "loosen and tighten" a assumed this was to set the time and day b/c this allows you to rotate the knob. This knob also has 7 peg/buttons (at 2am) that can be pressed in an pulled out. I assumed these were for choosing what night you wanted your system to run.
I pushed 2 of the buttons in bc I need about 40000grains to refresh and it's a 20k grain tank, so i figured 2xs a week. The parts I really have no idea about are the "white plastic screw/knobs that can be screwed in and out with a wrench" Are these valves? There's one on the back side of the control head area that is just before the "out". Then there are 2 more small ones on the same side(right side if looking at it head on).
Then I also have a three valve bypass(with handles) that has been installed in the piping in the house before the 2 pipes go into the softener tank. Is there something I'm missing: tubes attachments in service position? White plastic screw looking valve adjustment? Do I need to refill my brine tank after emptying it? Any help would be great! I can send pictures if needed. Thanks - Adam 8/22/12
Reply: how to contact Ecodyne for water softener information
Adam, I'm not sure what parts you're looking at. Often a time control on some water softeners has pins or screws that are set up or down through a round rotating dial or timer face plate so that as the timer plate rotates (under clock control) as a pin encounters (or does not encounter) a trip lever it will cause the system to process a regeneration cycle.
Use the contact-us link found at page top or bottom to send us photos of the part you are asking about and we can look it up in the Ecodyne Water Softener Manual for you if needed - but we'll need the model number
Ecodyne produces a range of water conditioning equipment including models sold under the Whirlpool brand as well as industrial water softeners & equipment.
For Whirlpool brand water softeners made by Ecodyne, use this contact information: Tel: 1-866-986-3223
Email:
info@ecodynewatertreatment.com
For direct contact with the company and for their commecial equipment see:
Ecodyne Industrial, 1270 Frontenac Road, Naperville, IL 60563
Tel: 1 800-228-9326 (USA Only)
Tel: +1 630-961-5043
Fax: 1 800-671-8846, Customer Service: 1 800-228-9326, Email: customers@ecodyneind.com, Website: http://www.ecodyneind.com/
Question: water softener brine tank does not empty fully
I just noticed today that there was still some water in my salt tank after the cycle
completed this morning (the drain hose is fine). Is this something I need to worry about?
The softener (Kenmore) is 12 years old now. - Scott 8/27/12
Reply:
Scott, possibly the float control valve in the brine tank needs cleaning, or the whole tank is due for a cleanout. See see How to Adjust the Float Level in the Water Softener Brine Tank - if your water softener brine tank is overflowing the float control may be stuck. Also see SOFTENER CLEANING & SANITIZING for the steps to solve this problem.
Question: very poor water flow and brownish yellow stuff comes out of faucets
There is hardly any water coming out of all my bathroom sinks, toliets, and showers. When a little water is disbursed there is a little of brownish yellow stuff that comes out with the water. What is the problem? - TJ 9/10/12
Reply:
TJ - with so little information any guess would be wild arm-waving. Try cleaning the faucet strainers, any water filters in the system should be replaced, check water at a tap closest to the input; if you are on a private well we want to start there: is the incoming water clean or dirty? Thus, is the problem part of your pluming system or is it due to the water source itself?
Question: backwash observed when water softener returned to service
I moved into a new house 3 months ago to find the softener to be "out of service" meaning my inlet outlet valves to softener were closed and bypass open. When I lined softener up I noticed that water was running out of my backwash line this continued for 15-20 min. It was not in a regeneration cycle? Any answers would be great thanks - Josh 10/5/12
Reply:
Josh, I'm guessing you bumped an extra regen cycle switch on the control; But it's just a guess. If the system was put out of service and on bypass it might be because the system was stuck in regeneration mode and needs cleaning or repair.
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Technical Reviewers & References
Related Topics, found near the top of this page suggest articles closely related to this one.
- [1] North Dakota Standards for Water Softeners, North Dakota General Authority Law, Chapter 62-04-08, Water Softener Units http://www.legis.nd.gov/information/acdata/pdf/62-04-08.pdf. "The objective of this chapter is to provide a standard of quality, capacity,
and performance for water softener units. Water softener performance
is to be based upon referee tests procedures described in section
62-04-08-09."
- [2] Culligan Mark 10 Water Softener 1994-1998 Installation and Operating Instructions (covering models manufactured after 1995) (1-96) 01881948.pdf available from www.culligan.com
- [3] Water Softeners, CMHC, Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation, cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/maho/wawa/wawa_005.cfm - October 2008. Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation acknowledges the contribution of Health Canada to the development of this document. For further questions regarding water treatment and water quality, contact Health Canada at watereau@hc-sc.gc.ca or call 613-957-2991 or 1-866-225-0709.
- [4] "Commercial Water Softener Installation and Operating Instructions", IBC Filtration & Water Treatment Products (Australia) for commercial, industrial and residential application www.ibcwater.com.au (07) 3219 2233
- [5] "Non electric water softener,
Installation and Operating Instructions", IBC Filtration & Water Treatment Products (Australia), op.cit.
- [6] "Water Softener Twin Tank Installation and Operating Instructions", IBC Filtration & Water Treatment Products (Australia), op.cit.
- [7] Our Water Hardness Table used at originated with but was edited and added to from http://www.bestfish.com/tips/110598.html and also from http://www.water-research.net/hardness.htm
- [8] Thanks to reader Gail Sanchez for discussing water softener backups and floods after an electrical outage - August 2010
- [9] Water Right, 1900 Prospect Court
Appleton, Wisconsin 54914, Tel: 920-739-9401, Website: http://www.water-right.com/ and their water softener manuals are available online at http://www.water-right.com/library/literature/literature_manuals.html
- [10] General Electric Corporation, Operation Manual, 740/760 [Water Conditioner or Water Softener] Control, 255 and Performa Series Valves, (268, 268 FA), General Electric Corp. 2007
- [11] Ecodyne Industrial, 1270 Frontenac Road, Naperville, IL 60563
Tel: 1 800-228-9326 (USA Only)
Tel: +1 630-961-5043
Fax: 1 800-671-8846, Customer Service: 1 800-228-9326, Email: customers@ecodyneind.com, Website: http://www.ecodyneind.com/
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both suitable and difficult environments. Septic tank installers, planners, state and local regulators, civil and sanitary engineers,
consulting engineers, architects, homeowners, academics, and land developers will find this publication valuable.
- Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems, Bennette D. Burks, Mary Margaret Minnis, Hogarth House 1994 - one of the best septic system books around, suffering a bit from small fonts and a weak index. (DF volunteers to serve as indexer if Burks/Minnis re-publish this very useful volume.)While it contains some material more technical than needed by homeowners, Burks/Minnis book on onsite wastewater treatment systems a very useful reference
for both property owners and septic system designers. We refer to it often.
While Minnis says the best place to buy this book is at Amazon (our link at left), you can also see this book at Minnis' website at http://web page .pace.edu/MMinnisbook
- Septic Tank/Soil-Absorption Systems: How to Operate & Maintain [ copy on file as /septic/Septic_Operation_USDA.pdf ] - , Equipment Tips, U.S. Department of Agriculture, 8271 1302, 7100 Engineering, 2300 Recreation, September 1982, web search 08/28/2010, original source: http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfimage/82711302.pdf
- Water Wells and Septic Systems Handbook, R. Dodge Woodson. This book is in the upper price range, but is worth the cost for serious septic installers and designers.
Quoting Amazon: Each year, thousands upon thousands of Americans install water wells and septic systems on their properties. But with a maze of codes governing their use along with a host of design requirements that ensure their functionality where can someone turn for comprehensive, one-stop guidance? Enter the Water Wells and Septic Systems Handbook from McGraw-Hill.
Written in language any property owner can understand yet detailed enough for professionals and technical students this easy-to-use volume delivers the latest techniques and code requirements for designing, building, rehabilitating, and maintaining private water wells and septic systems. Bolstered by a wealth of informative charts, tables, and illustrations, this book delivers:
* Current construction, maintenance, and repair methods
* New International Private Sewage Disposal Code
* Up-to-date standards from the American Water Works Association
- Wells and Septic Systems, Alth, Max and Charlet, Rev. by S. Blackwell Duncan, $ 18.95; Tab Books 1992. We have found this text very useful for conventional well and septic systems design and maintenance --DF.
Quoting an Amazon description:Here's all the information you need to build a well or septic system yourself - and save a lot of time, money, and frustration. S. Blackwell Duncan has thoroughly revised and updated this second edition of Wells and Septic Systems to conform to current codes and requirements. He also has expanded this national bestseller to include new material on well and septic installation, water storage and distribution, water treatment, ecological considerations, and septic systems for problem building sites.
- The NSFC Products List has an excellent list of design manuals/modules available from their website or by telephone 800-624-8301
- ...
Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair
 The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
Or choose the The Home Reference eBook for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAEHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.
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