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Frost proof hose bib cross section (C) Daniel Friedman nee Woodford Co.Frost-Proof Sillcock Installation& Leak Repair
Install, diagnose & fix leaky frostproof sillcock anti-siphon valve

  • POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about outdoor wall faucets, sillcocks, hose bibbs, and freezeproof or frostproof faucets or faucet troubleshooting

Diagnose & fix frostproof hose bibb & sillcock leaks:

This article series gives the steps in diagnosing leaks at outdoor spigots, hose bibbs, or sillcocks.

As our illustration at page top explains, the long shaft (green) of this frost-proof faucet permits the actual stem washer and valve seat to be located on the warm side of the building exterior wall.

Using the popular Woodford Model 17, we illustrate & explain the steps in replacing a leaky sillcock anti-siphon valve.

This article series describes outdoor faucets, hose bibbs, sillcocks, or hose hookups, how they work, where they should be installed, freeze-proofing hose hookups, and troubleshooting or repairing stuck, broken, or dripping outdoor faucets.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

How to Install or Repair a Leaky Frost-proof Outdoor Faucet SillCock or Hose Bibb

Outdoor plumbing faucet schematic (C) Carson Dunlop AssociatesFrost-proof or freeze-proof outdoor hose bibbs or sillcocks use longer-stem frost-proof outdoor faucet (shown at left). These are required in new construction in most jurisdictions. This outdoor includes a vacuum breaker is designed to permit water to drain out of the faucet when the faucet is closed.

Explanation of the faucet's anti-siphon feature

The vent (allowing air into the faucet) combines with a check valve to prevent back-flow of unsanitary water from a garden hose backwards into the building water supply piping.

Explanation of the faucet's frost-proof feature

The long faucet body of a frost-proof hose bibb is long enough to extend fully through the building exterior wall or foundation and into indoor or heated space, places the actual shut-off stem washer and valve-seat inside the building.

[Click to enlarge any image]

The sketch above, showing the two types of outdoor water faucets is provided courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, a Toronto home inspection, education, and report-writing company.

Slope the Frost-Proof Faucet Down Towards its Mouth

Frost-proof outdoor faucets are installed with the faucet body sloping down from its connection inside the building. The low point should be the faucets opening that should also be facing down.

This position assures that when the faucet is turned off, any water remaining inside the faucet body will drain fully.

Our friends at Davies Hardware, 806 Main St. in Poughkeepsie, NY showed us this frozen, burst "frost proof" sillcock" as an example of what happens if the faucet is improperl-installed sloping down towards the inside of the building.

Frozen burst frostproof sillcock that was sloped down towards the inside of the building (C) Daniel Friedman & Davies Hardware at InspectApedia.com

Our detailed photo below shows that the pipe burst along what appears to be a manufacturing seam or stress line.

Davies also warns that when repairing frozen burst copper pipe or tubing, you may have to cut out and replace more than you thought: the same forces that split the pipe inside the building at its low-end (that held water that then froze), also expand or "stretch" the diameter of the copper tubing nearby.

Frozen burst frostproof sillcock that was sloped down towards the inside of the building (C) Daniel Friedman & Davies Hardware at InspectApedia.com

As a result you may find that just cutting out the split section of a frozen, burst copper pipe won't be enough. The remaining pipe end may still be too large to fit into a copper sweat fitting like a coupling or union. You'll need to cut back more of the frozen, expanded copper pipe.

Don't Leave Garden Hose Connected to Sillcock

Watch out: as we explained when describing standard compression type hose bibbs, you should never leave a garden hose attached to the outdoor faucet in winter.

Even with a frost-proof faucet, water in the hose may add to the risk that the faucet will be freeze damaged by preventing the faucet from draining fully even when it is turned to the "off" position.

 

What Kind of Faucet Have I Got?

Before starting to tear things apart or to buy repair parts, let's check that we know what kind of faucet we're repairing: the procedures and parts are not the same.

Anit siphon frost-free faucet (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

Our photo above is a typical frost-free anti-siphon faucet, or "Woodford" valve. Repairing that faucet is discussed here on this page.

If your outdoor faucet looks like our next photo shown below and if needs repair, it is NOT a frost-proof anti-siphon valve, it's a traditional compression valve faucet or spigot. You want to see the leak repairs starting

at FAUCETS, OUTDOOR HOSE BIBBS

Drain water pressure before taking faucet apart (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

Why do we Want an Anti-Siphon Faucet?

Cross connection at garden hose (C) Carson Dunlop Associates

How might we get backflow from a garden hose into the building piping? Easy. Suppose you are filling an above-ground pool, or a fish pond, with your garden hose.

The above-ground pond in our photo at left includes three levels, at least two of which are high enough to cause water back-flow when the pond fill-hose is left connected as shown in our photo.

As long as the upper surface of water in such an outdoor water container is higher than the hose bibb location on the building, the potential for back-flow occurs.

Back-flow of water from such a source through an open hose bibb faucet would then occur if the building happened to lose water pressure.

Also see CROSS CONNECTIONS, PLUMBING.

 

How to Repair Sillcock Leaks at the Anti-Siphon Valve

Leaking anti siphon hose bibb faucet Woodford No 11 (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.comThis leaky anti-siphon hose bibb is the same one as shown earlier in this article, before it leaked. The hose bibb worked perfectly for about fifteen years before in a sudden change of behaviour it began gushing water when the faucet was opened.

 

Question: where can I get repair parts for my frost-free anti-siphon sillcock

2018/06/27 Jim said:

I would like to replace the only the stem assembly (4 inch, spring loaded) in my frost free anti-siphon sillcock. Where the handle attaches the stem assembly is very bent.

Also, to replace the whole sillcock would require I open a hole in the bedroom wall.

I'm having trouble finding the replacement part and would like to know if anyone can identify the attached stem assembly and know where I could find one. Thanks

Reply:

Jim

Mansfield frostfree sillcock #500 retired product, replaced by Prier #400 - at InspectApedia.comTake the valve stem that you removed to a good hardware store and you may find they have a plethora of Replacements one of which will match.

Or if you can see a brand and model on the sillcock, such as the Woodford No. 17 shown above on this page, you can buy the exact parts from your local plumber supplier or you can order replacement parts from online vendors.

I agree that for a typical frost-proof sillcock installed in a building wall above ground you will have no access without cutting an access opening in the wall from inside or outside.

The Woodford sillcock shown above is installed in a wall outside of a bathroom on a wall abutted inside by a cast iron bath tub. There is no access from inside the building whatsoever. (You'd have to demolish the bathroom to remove the bathtub.

A plumber having to replace the entire sill-cock would cut an access opening from outside, make the repair, then repair the wall.

Reader follow-up:

Frostproof sillcock valve stem (C) InspectApedia.com reader Jim

Found the frost free anti-siphon hose bib at a local plumbing supply store

It only cost about $20. I will rob the stem assembly from the new hose bib and insert it into the old (still good) hose bib. Will save time and money from cutting a hole in my wall to get to the pipe connection and replace the whole thing.

Reply: How to Replace the Anti Siphon Valve on a Frost Free Woodford No. 17 hose bibb

Woodford Model 17 Hose Bibb (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

Very smart, Jim.

But before replacing the valve stem, let's be sure we understand just where the leak is occurring.

[Click to enlarge any image]

You can identify the brand and model of your frost-free anti-siphon faucet by looking at the cap - photo below.

Mansfield sillcocks series #500 use a gray plastic cap on the anti-siphon valve.

Woodford sillcocks use tan colored plastic and the anti-siphon valve cap is marked WOODFORD MODEL 17 ANTI SIPHON.

Woodford Model 17 Hose Bibb identification (C) Daniel Friedman

Find the Exact Sillcock Leak Before Trying to Repair It

Now look very closely at where water is leaking out of the valve.

Sillcock valve leak diagnosis (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.comIn our photo above water is gushing out of this sillcock valve, but we need to look more-closely to see exactly where the leak is originating. In my photo the yellow arrows point to the gush of water.

The blue arrow points to the most-common leak point at a hose bibb: leaks at the hose connection to the faucet mouth. Remove the hose and replace the hose washer and re-tighten it.

The green arrows point to occasional leaks at the valve stem or its packing washer.

The red arrow points to the point at which water will leak if the hose bibb or sillcock's anti-siphon valve has failed.

Here are three different cases:

  1. If water leaks from the valve outlet when the faucet handle is closed, (blue arrow) then the valve stem washer, or (rarely) the valve stem itself may need replacement.
  2. If water leaks around the valve handle stem (green arrows ) then the valve packing or packing washer is leaking and might need to be replaced, though on occasion a slight gentle tightening of the packing nut will stop such a leak.
  3. If water leaks from the plastic cap covering the anti-siphon valve when the valve is open (red arrow and also the photo below) then the anti-siphon valve assembly (simple plastic parts) should be replaced.

If the leak is at the brown (or gray on some brands) plastic cap on top of the anti-siphon hose bibb like the Woodford No. 17, those parts can be replaced quite easily without replacing the entire valve and without removing the valve stem at all.

Does your frost-free anti siphon valve look like the Woodford model No. 17 I show here?

Leak at the anti siphon valve on a Woodford Model 17 sillcock (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

Other frost-proof sillcocks such as Mansfield have similar features and can be repaired by ordering the proper repair kit for your valve brand and model.

Watch out: repair parts are generally not interchangeable between sillcock brands.

A Mansfield repair kit sold by Danco for the Mansfield-brand Series #500 sillcocks will not, for example, repair a Woodford-brand Model #17 sillcock.

Even though the white plastic anti siphon cap threads will fit into some other brands of sillcocks (such as Woodford) the Mansfield#500 anti siphon valve will NOT work in the Woodford Model #17 - we tried it and found that it simply leaked like mad.

Mansfield Sillcock Series 500 repair kit sold by Danco (C) InspectApedia.com

Woodford sells sillcock faucet repair kits for all of their product line through plumbing suppliers, building supply stores, as well as online vendors and by their own website given at the end of this article.

Woodford No. 17 frost-free sillcock repair kit - at InspectApedia.com

All of these parts can be replaced on the Woodford hose bibb working from outside.

However if the leak problem is only at the anti-siphon valve a simpler and less costly repair will be sufficient: remove the plastic cap, un-screw the anti-siphon valve, and replace the two parts (the threaded fitting and the washer-bearing pressure-operated valve seal inside) with the parts from the repair kit. Then snap the new plastic cover cap in place.

How to Replace the Anti Siphon Valve on a Woodford Model 17 Hose Bibb

Woodford Model 17 anti siphon valve repair kit (C) Daniel Friedman InspectApedia.com

Above are the three parts you'll need.

At your local plumbing or hardware store as well as from online vendors or building suppliers you can buy a replacement kit that includes just these items.

Step 1: remove the plastic anti siphon valve cap

Removing the plastic cap on the Woodford Model 17 anti siphon valve (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

Step 2: un-screw the anti-siphon valve

Water spouting from a damaged or dislocated anti siphon valve on a Woodford Model 17 hose bibb (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

My photo above shows what happens if you turn water on at this point: that's because the anti-siphon valve or its washer is dislocated or the valve is damaged.

I've successfully disassembled, cleaned-up and re-assembled old anti-siphon valve parts to repair a leak like this but a better approach is to simply replace the parts. That's a more-reliable repair.

Unscrew the Woodford Model 17 anti siphon valvce assembly  (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

My photo just above shows loosening the plastic anti-siphon valve assembly.

Once loosened, you can un-screw this plastic part by hand.

Below I'm holding the old anti-siphon valve parts (first photo) and the replacement parts (second photo).

The replacement anti-siphon valve parts look different but they work just fine in older Woodford Model 17 sillcocks.

Old black-washer Woodford Model 17 anti-siphon sillcock valve parts (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com New replacement red-washer Woodford Model 17 anti-siphon sillcock valve parts (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

Step 3: insert the new anti-siphon valve parts in the proper position

First put the smaller valve component into the underside of the clear plastic cap so that the washer is up inside the cap, not down towards the faucet body.

Assembling the Woodford Model 17 anti siphon valve parts (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectAPedia.com

Turn this assembly over so that you can thread it carefully into the brass body of the sillcock.

In my photo I'm holding the assembled valve with its upper side "up" - you can see through the clear plastic that the plastic pin on the red washer-bearing plunger is through the small hole in the center of the clear cap.

Woodford Model  17 anti siphon valvce ready to reinstall (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

Take care not to cross thread the anti-siphon valve plastic part.

If the small center plunger falls down into the valve, use a tiny screwdriver or equivalent to center it in the valve head space so that when you screw down the threaded valve top the plunger moves into the hole in the center of the top.

Step 4: Tighten the replacement anti siphon valve

Tighten the assembly by hand and then gently snug it down with your gooseneck pliers. Don't over-tighten the valve and take care not to damage these plastic parts.

Woodford Model 17 anti siphon valve parts back in place in the sillcock (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

Step 5: Replace the anti siphon valve plastic cap

Watch out: before replacing the cap, turn on the hose bibb - open the faucet handle - and verify that the sillcock's anti-siphon valve is not leaking.

You'll see water enter the clear plastic valve top and you may notice the red washered plunger snap up against the under-side of the valve top.

Water should not be leaking out of the anti-siphon valve at this point though of course, water is pouring all over your feet as you've opened the sillcock.

In my photo above [Click to enlarge any image] you may see that there's water inside of the valve, because I've opened the sillcock for testing.

Below, I've replaced the original cap - it just snaps in place.

Woodford Model 17 sillcock with anti siphon valve cap in place (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

You can use the new plastic cap. But I re-installed the old plastic cap for a trial run as it's obvious that you can't remove the plastic cap again without chewing it up with your pliers.

I kept the new un-damaged cap in reserve, planning to install it to replace the ugly chewed-up original cap once I'm sure that the repair was successful.

Step 6: Mistake to Avoid: A Closed Hose Manifold will Blow the Anti-Siphon Valve on a Sillcock

Watch out: especially if water pressure is high at your building, if you install and close any type of shutoff valve downstream from the sillcock's outlet and then open the sillcock valve the water pressure may blow out the anti-siphon valve.

Hose manifold valves attached to a hose bibb can blow out the anti-siphon valve on a Woodford Model 17 as well as other brands - keep at least one of the subordinate valves open when turning on the sillcock main valve (C) Daniel Friedman at InspectApedia.com

To avoid that fiasco, BEFORE OPENING THE SILLCOCK be sure that AT LEAST ONE DOWNSTREAM VALVE is OPEN.

Watch out: excerpt from instructions for installation of the Legend Valve sillcock cited just below:

Avoid the use of hose bibb accessories such as hose manifolds, hose Y-splitters or sprinkler timers, which may cause the TM-550 to malfunction. . The TM-550 is designed and certified in accordance with ASSE Standard 1019 Section 1.2.1, for non-continuous pressure service: Not more than twelve hours of continuous water pressure. Outlet-mounted devices may cause sudden or continuous, damaging.

Replacing the Entire Frost-Proof Anti-Siphon Sillcock Valve

Woodford No. 11 antisiphon sill cock new, available from plumbing suppliers and online vendors - shown at InspectApedia.comWatch out: while you cannot simply pull out a sillcock that was soldered in place, valves are sold terminating in either a solder-type or sweat fitting OR in a threaded fitting.

IF you knew that your valve is at threaded fitting installation, it might be possible to unscrew an existing sillcock like the Woodford valve shown below from outside the building.

You would remove the screws in the plastic mounting flange and then attempt to remove it, wrap the replacement sillcock valve threads with teflon tape and screw the new one back in place.

But there are some serious risks with this "easy" sillcock replacement approach:

  1. Flooded wall cavity: If you were not able to completely shut off water supplying the sillcock when you remove it you will flood the wall cavity, wet the insulation, and risk a serious water damage or mold contamination problem.
  2. Wet wall cavity: Even if you were successful in shutting off the water supplying the sillcock when you remove it some water is likely to spill out of the valve as well as the supply pipe into the wall cavity: same hazards as above, though smaller in scope.
  3. Continued leaks into the wall cavity: because you cannot see the plumbing connection between the sillcock and the receiving plumbing fitting in the wall cavity, there is a risk that your connection leaks continuously, ultimately causing the same sort of damages as in warnings #1 or #2 above.

To avoid these risks, if you cannot repair the hose bibb / sillcock by installing a repair kit or a new valve stem and repair kit while leaving the valve body in place, I'd cut an access opening in the exterior wall or in the interior drywall if that location is accessible, and I'd inspect for leaks before, during, and after the repair.

Where to Buy Frost-Proof Anti Siphon Valve Hose Bibbs, Sillcocks, & Yard Hydrants

Everbilt sillcock this is NOT a frost proof nor anti-siphon valve (C) Inspectapedia.com 2019What's the difference between a regular sillcock, a frost-free sillcock, and a yard hydrant?

Sillcock: Here we illustrate first a conventional sillcock or hose bibb intended to be mounted on the exterior wall of a building, supplied by building cold water (usually) piping. This is NOT a frost-proof sillcock and this valve does NOT include an anti-siphon feature.

This sillcock valve is intended for use in climates where freezing is not a concern.

[Click to enlarge any image]

In a freezing climate where hose bibbs like this one are installed, the plumber should have installed a shut-off valve inside the heated building interior.

Before freezing weather arrives the indoor shutoff valve is closed and then the sillcock or hose-bibb is opened to drain.

Watch out: be sure you shut off the water supply to this valve indoors before freezing weather. Otherwise the valve and piping near it can freeze, burst, and may leak into the building, causing costly damage.

Watch out: when you turn off the in-building water supply to this type of hose bibb or sill cock, remember to go back outside and open the valve so that it will drain completely - to avoid possible frost damage to the valve.

When you open the valve to drain it check to be sure that water stops dripping in a few minutes. If water continues to run or drip then the indoor shut-off valve is not fully closed, or is leaky and needs repair.

Frost resistant sillcock (C) Daniel Friedman

Frost-Proof Sillcocks like the valve shown above (from a Home Depot store) are designed to drain out when turned off. The same features that improve drainage out of the valvce when it's closed provide an anti-siphon feature that prevents back-siphonage of hose water (or nasty water into which the end of the hose rests) back into the building water supply where it might contaminate building piping.

The photo shows the long valve body that assures that the actual shutoff is inside the heated space.

Sillcocks discussed in the article above, also called "hose bibbs" are used to provide an outdoor water or hose hook-up at a building wall.

The water supply piping to the sillcock is routed through the building, in cold climates through a heated space, then must pass through the building wall to the exterior where a hose connection is provided.

Sillcocks may not be lead-free - including those listed below.

Frost Proof Yard Hydrants: a yard hydrant is usually a free-standing outdoor water supply spigot used for watering or for livestock.

It is fed by underground water piping. As you'll note from our illustration below, adapted from Menards' yard hydrant installation instructions cited further below, to be frost-proof or freeze-damage-proof, there are several features required:

Yard hydrant installation details from Menards' suggestions (C) InspectApedia.com 2019

Watch out: some sillcocks and yard hydrants, even including anti-siphon ball valves and sillcock models contain lead and do not comply with the U.S. Safe Drinking Water Act.

Those valves should NOT be be used anywhere that water passing through them will be consumed by humans nor (in our OPINION) other animals including livestock and for fish ponds.

Watch out: Never leave a hose attached to the hydrant after use. This will prevent the hydrant from draining properly and will cause the hydrant to freeze in cold weather. Leaving the hose attached could also siphon contaminants back into the water system. - this quote appears in literature from Everbilt and from Watersource.

Where to Buy & Installation Instructions for Sill-cocks & Hydrants

There is a nearly-overwhelming number of sillcock brands that specifically advertise that they are lead free, including some of the following.

Arrowhead 456-04LF Frost free hydrant, 3 3/4" wall cavity, 125 psi, all brass &^ Type L copper - at InspectApedia.com

Legend freezeproof sillcock or hose bibb (C) InspectApedia.com adapted from Legend instructions cited in detail in this article

Mueller 104 Anti-Siphon freeze-proof sillcock at InspectApedia.com

 




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Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

On 2020-06-23 - by (mod) - how to get the plumbing parts with the right thread size or pitch

Thread gauge used to be sure old and new parts or mating parts use the same thread size or gauge (C) InspectApedia.comJim

Thank you so much for the helpful post and photo.

I have also run into the "wrong threads" problem on other plumbing repairs, such as in trying to connect up or find fittings to marry flare fittings, compression fittings, and normal or standard US "NPT" thread pipe fittings. For example some flare fittings are sold in both a coarse thread and fine thread version.

I use several easy "tricks" to check thread compatability, similar to your own experience:

1. find a fitting or part that screws properly onto the "old" part and use that matching fitting (cap, nipple, etc) to select and buy the proper replacement part

2. Use a thread gauge (shown below)

3. Make note of devices using special threads or even reverse threads (uncommon but does occur)

On 2020-06-23 by Jim F.

@Tony Paccione, I had that "turn forever" problem for a sillcock valve with a new stem I just bought. Finally, by comparing the old-vs-new stem, I immediately saw the reason: the stems were alike EXCEPT for the thread pitch.

The advice from danjoefriedman is important -- in addition to checking the thread condition, realize that the "same" stem isn't really the same unless it's the same brand name; no standardization.

Different threads found on two othewise identical sillcock valve stems (C) InspectApedia.com Jim F

On 2020-05-15 - by (mod) - check plumbing valve stem lengths, threads, fit

Tony,

Do you still have the old parts?

If so, lets compare old and new hydrant stem lengths

Also, shine a light into the receiving end and check thread condition.

On 2020-05-15 by Tony Paccione - Mansfield 500 series hydrant stem

I have rebuilt my Mansfield 500 series hydrant stem with the items in the repair kit. This is the first time this has been done, the house was built in 1992. Now that it is rebuilt, the threaded end of the stem (inside the house) will not "catch". I cannot screw this stem in. What could be the problem? The new handle is assembled but it continually turns both left and right. Please assist/advise. Thanks
Tony Paccione
Brick, NJ 08723
avp0713@comcast.net

On 2020-04-17 - by (mod) -

Quite possibly, Greg, moreso depending on who actually made the hose bibbs.

Am I right that simply tightening the packing nut around the valve stem doesn't fix the trouble?

On 2020-04-16 by Greg

I've installed brand new model 17 bibbs at three different addresses over the past 4 years. Each has persistent leaking at the valve stem when the faucet is 'on". This occurs whether the faucet is 'fully 'on' or 'partially 'on'. This is VERY frustrating, being that the faucets are brand new. Is this a design flaw?

On 2019-05-02 6 - by (mod) - Woodford RK-17 anti-siphon valve was leaking.

Since the entire plastic part needs to be removed anyway I don't feel bad about gouging it up in order to create a slotted which I can insert a screwdriver or other tool to try turning it. Sometimes you can also tap the plastic carefully with a small screwdriver to cause it to turn in a counterclockwise Direction

On 2019-05-02 by Mike

Woodford RK-17 anti-siphon valve was leaking. I removed the cap and tried to loosen the clear plastic body of the anti-siphon piece. The top of the valve broke off and I can't remove the threaded part of the valve. Any ideas how to loosen it?

On 2019-08-13 by (mod) - steps in getting my hose bibb / sillcock inspected and approved

Dave

If you're in a freezing climate it makes sense to install a frost-proof hose bib. Details are at SILLCOCK INSTALLATION & REPAIR

Most likely - varying by the country and city where you live - you need a building or plumbing permit and at least two inspections, a rough-in inspection and a final inspection.

Mounting a sillcock (hose bib) through OSB covered with vinyl siding and connecting to PEX (why are you running red (hot water) PEX to an outdoor sillcock?) you may need blocking inside the wall between studs to be sure your sillcock is securely mounted.

This illustration is from the sillcock installation instructions for a Legend Model TM-550 Multi-Turn Anti-Siphon
Frost-Free Sillcock Installation Instructions - details are at the article I already cited

Legend freezeproof sillcock or hose bibb (C) InspectApedia.com adapted from Legend instructions cited in detail in this article

On 2019-08-12 by Dave

I am plumbing by myself, an addition to my home. In the addition, the plumbing will consist of; 1) a clothes washer connection, and drain. 2) a utility tub connection and drain. 3) A hose bib connection for outside use.

Once I have all the water and drain lines in place, do I have to charge the water lines with water, to pass the building code inspection or just have them run to where they will go, and I don't even have to have them connected to faucets etc?

Will the inspector want to look at my 'actual',/ physical, water connections, ( to the utility tub faucet and clothes washer water connections and the out door faucet) Thank you for this opportunity to ask my questions, and I look forward to reading your reply.

I want to install a outside water hose bib on a 1/2 inch thick OSB wall that has vinyl siding on the outside. The wall studs are 2x4s. Do I want a freeze proof hose bib, and if so, what type, and size to buy? Eventually, This plumbing will have to be code inspector approved.

Oor do I not need a freeze proof type here to pass inspection? If I don't then what type, and size etc. would I need to buy?

To help you visualize the area I am working in, I have attached a picture of the area and wall that the 1/2 inch PEX line will pass through to feed the hose bib. I'll look for your reply. And thank you for this great web site, and the ability to send you questions!

This Q&A were posted originally at PLUMBING SYSTEM INSPECT DIAGNOSE REPAIR


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