How to Get More Hot Water Pressure, Temperature, & Quantity from a Tankless Coil InspectAPedia® -
How to improve hot water pressure and how to improve hot water quantity from a tankless coil
How to stop running out of hot water, How to make hot water hot enough
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Here we discuss how to improve the hot water pressure, quantity, flow, and water temperature obtained from a tankless coil used for making domestic hot water.
If your hot water pressure is declining because of a clogging tankless coil, be sure to see Clogged Piping / Tankless Coil & Hot Water Flow for diagnosis and repair advice. Thanks to Carson Dunlop, a Toronto Home Inspection Firm and Home Inspection Educator, for permission to use sketches shown in this article.
How to Increase Hot Water Quantity & Flow When a Tankless Coil is Installed - how to avoid running out of hot water
A tankless coil used to produce hot water is shown in the sketch at the top of this page and again in the photograph at left. The black rectangle is the mounting plate that bolts the tankless coil to the heating boiler - in this case it happens to be a steam boiler.
On this tankless coil cold water enters at the lower of the two pipes connected to the coil. You'll also see that the cold water line continues to enter the bottom of the anti-scald valve.
The hot water leaves this tankless coil from the upper pipe connected to the coil, where it flows down to enter the mixing valve (tempering valve) at the left side of that valve (see the black temperature setting knob on top of the valve?). We discuss anti-scald valve or tempering valves in detail just below.
Tempered hot water (mixed hot and cold) leaves at the right side of the mixing valve and heads for the plumbing fixtures in the building.
On many heating boilers the tankless coil mounting plate is round, not rectangular, and it may be located on the top of the heating boiler as well as on the front, back, or either side of the heater.
Use a flow limiter to increase the length of time that you can run the hot water and to increase hot water temperature
Tankless coils do not provide infinite hot water. Cool water entering the coil draws heat out of the boiler water and into the house water. The oil or gas burner that reheats the heating boiler cannot pump heat into the boiler as fast as the tankless coil is removing heat. That's because water is entering the coil at 40 to 55 deg F in most cases, and it's trying to leave at the boiler temperature that may be close to 200 degF.
So if you run water too fast through the tankless coil it'll draw heat out of the boiler quickly and you'll have great hot water pressure, but not for very long. Then you'll just have tepid or cold water pressure. Some tankless coils have a flow limiting valve mounted right at the coil to prevent water from flowing through the coil too fast.
Using a flow limiting valve on a tankless coil lets you run the hot water longer before you run out by forcing you to run it more slowly.
Use of a flow limiting valve, because it slows the passage of cold water through the water heater, will also permit the water to arrive at the plumbing fixture at a higher temperature - the hot water will be hotter.
Intelligent use of shower controls to restrict hot water flow can save hot water costs and provide longer shower bathing time
Even when a flow limiter is not installed in hot water piping, a bather can save on hot water heating costs by smart use of shower controls. Some bathers turn the hot water all the way to it's fastest flow position, followed by turning on lots of cold water in order to avoid being scalded. Instead of this fastest-flow best water pressure approach, turn the hot water to a less powerful stream, which will require also turning on less cold water to obtain a comfortable shower temperature.
This method of bathing does not really provide a greater quantity of hot water in a building, but by drawing hot water out of the water heater more slowly, one can either have longer time in the shower, or subsequent bathers can have adequate hot water at less total water heating cost.
Use an anti-scald valve to increase hot water quantity and protect from hot water burns
Why does an Anti-Scald Valve, mixing valve, or tempering valve on a tankless coil hot water system increases the total amount of hot water available?
The use of a mixing valve or anti-scald valve at a tankless coil permits us to set the Honeywell 6006 limit control switch or other boiler temperature or water heater temperature limit control to a higher number without having to worry about scalding occupants of the building.
Keeping the water at a higher temperature inside the heating boiler (with a tankless coil system) or in the water heater (with a separate domestic water heater or indirect-fired water heater system) means that there is more heat stored inside the heating boiler or water heater.
By adding cold water to the very hot water leaving the tankless coil or water heater, we draw hot water out of the water heater itself more slowly than we would without this addition.
Therefore we can expect to draw a larger quantity of (tempered) hot water from the tankless coil on such a system than otherwise. We will have more total domestic hot water for washing and bathing, and we have safer hot water (non-scalding) than if we omitted this pair of controls.
See Mixing Valves for a detailed discussion of how to install, set, and use mixing valves, anti-scald valves, or tempering valves on water heating systems to avoid scalding burns and to improve hot water heater performance.
Make Sure That the Tankless Coil is Not Mineral-Clogged
See Tankless Coils for an explanation of how these water heaters work and why they clog up and how to stop clogging up the coil.
See Water pipe clog repair guide for a discussion of loss of water pressure due to clogged piping or clogged tankless coils.
At Larger Diameter Water Supply Piping we discuss the benefits of using larger diameter water supply piping both to improve water pressure and flow and also to delay the clogging of pipes due to minerals or rust.
See WATER SOFTENERS for a discussion of how to use a water softener to prevent hot water pipe clogging and tankless coil clogging (and reduced hot water pressure and flow). A water softener can prevent mineral-clogging of pipes or the tankless coil but regrettably, installing a water softener after your pipes or tankless coil are already clogged will not fix that problem.
How do we Improve the Hot Water Volume & Quantity?
As we discussed beginning in the previous section of this article, there are several different hot water problems:
Poor hot water flow, or bad hot water pressure, which is usually a piping or clogging problem or an overall building water pressure problem (Clogged Piping / Tankless Coil & Hot Water Flow) In this case the water is hot enough and we may seem to have plenty of hot water, but the flow, or pressure of hot water in the building is too weak and (a good diagnostic) the hot water pressure is noticeably less than the cold water pressure in the building.
Poor hot water quantity: not enough hot water, or running out of hot water very quickly. Insufficient hot water quantity may be due to the way hot water is being made, such as a water heater that is too small (perhaps 30 gallons for a large family), a tankless coil on a new small heating boiler, or an instantaneous water heater that is being asked to supply hot water too rapidly.
Hot water temperature that is not hot enough: water temperature is just too cool. Insufficient hot water temperature may be due simply to the setting of a temperature control on a water heater or mixing valve, or it may be due to flowing water too fast through a tankless coil. Hot water that is not hot enough can be caused by quite a list of problems, some of which are easy to correct. See Temperature of Hot Water is Too Low for steps to correct water that just won't get hot.
Slow hot water supply recovery time: we have water that is hot enough, and we have plenty of it (or maybe not), but when we run out it takes too long for the hot water system to "recover", that is, to again deliver hot water after previously running out. The speed with which a water heater re-heats cold water which has entered its tank depends mostly on the type of heater and on its overall size in gallons. Here are some examples:
Oil-fired hot water heaters warm-up faster than gas or electric water heaters
Gas-fired water heaters warm up incoming water faster than most electric water heaters
A 50-gallon hot water heater tank that has been cooled down to a low temperature will take longer to re-heat than a 30-gallong hot water tank of the same type (oil, gas, electric, solar).
Articles Describing Steps to Increase Hot Water Quantity
The articles listed below offer more details about steps one can take to increase hot water quantity, pressure, and flow in a building. Use links just below or at the left of each page to navigate this document or to view other topics at this website. Green links show where you are in our document or website.
CLOGGED PIPING & Hot Water Flow - diagnose and correct poor hot water pressure and flow due to pipe clogging. See WATER SOFTENERS for a discussion of how to install and adjust water heaters to prevent hot water piping clogging or tankless coil clogging due to hard water.
Extra Tanks to Increase Hot Water- pre-heat your hot water absorbing ambient building heat or increase hot water quantity with cascaded, staged, multiple water heaters, possibly using more than one energy source
Range Boiler Water Heaters an older form of indirect-fired hot water heating used with separate heating boilers
Side Arm Coil Water Heaters similar to instantaneous and tankless coil water heaters, often used with range boilers
Solar Water Heaters using solar collectors, an indoor water tank, pump and controls, using minimal "on-grid" energy
Tankless Coil Hot Water Increase a heat exchanging coil immersed inside of a heating boiler heats provides (somewhat limited) hot water. various tricks can significantly improve the safety and water quantity available
The characteristics of various water heaters such as life expectancy, cost, safety, and capacity are discussed at WATER HEATER PROPERTIES
Critique, contributions wanted: Contact Us to suggest corrections or additions to articles at this website, and if you wish, to receive online listing and credit as a contributor. Particular thanks are due to the many experts and also consumers who read and critique technical articles at InspectAPedia.com.
Additional technical contributors & reference sources for this article are listed below.
Use links just below or at the left of each page to navigate this document or to view other topics at this website. Green links show where you are in our document or website.
Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, Carson Dunlop, Associates, Toronto, for permission to use illustrations from their publication, The Illustrated Home which illustrates construction details and building components. Carson Dunlop provides home inspection education, publications, report writing materials, and home inspection services. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.
Arlene Puentes, an ASHI member and a licensed home inspector in Kingston, NY, and has served on ASHI national committees as well as HVASHI Chapter President. Ms. Puentes can be contacted at ap@octoberhome.com
Domestic and Commercial Oil Burners, Charles H. Burkhardt, McGraw Hill Book Company, New York 3rd Ed 1969.
National Fuel Gas Code (Z223.1) $16.00 and National Fuel Gas Code Handbook (Z223.2) $47.00 American Gas Association (A.G.A.), 1515 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, VA 22209 also available from National Fire Protection Association, Batterymarch Park, Quincy, MA 02269. Fundamentals of Gas Appliance Venting and Ventilation, 1985, American Gas Association Laboratories, Engineering Services Department. American Gas Association, 1515 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, VA 22209. Catalog #XHO585. Reprinted 1989.
The Steam Book, 1984, Training and Education Department, Fluid Handling Division, ITT [probably out of print, possibly available from several home inspection supply companies] Fuel Oil and Oil Heat Magazine, October 1990, offers an update,
Principles of Steam Heating, $13.25 includes postage. Fuel oil & Oil Heat Magazine, 389 Passaic Ave., Fairfield, NJ 07004.
The Lost Art of Steam Heating, Dan Holohan, 516-579-3046 FAX
Principles of Steam Heating, Dan Holohan, technical editor of Fuel Oil and Oil Heat magazine, 389 Passaic Ave., Fairfield, NJ 07004 ($12.+1.25 postage/handling).
"Residential Hydronic (circulating hot water) Heating Systems", Instructional Technologies Institute, Inc., 145 "D" Grassy Plain St., Bethel, CT 06801 800/227-1663 [home inspection training material] 1987
"Warm Air Heating Systems". Instructional Technologies Institute, Inc., 145 "D" Grassy Plain St., Bethel, CT 06801 800/227-1663 [home inspection training material] 1987
Heating, Ventilating, and Air Conditioning Volume I, Heating Fundamentals,
Boilers, Boiler Conversions, James E. Brumbaugh, ISBN 0-672-23389-4 (v. 1) Volume II, Oil, Gas, and Coal Burners, Controls, Ducts, Piping, Valves, James E. Brumbaugh, ISBN 0-672-23390-7 (v. 2) Volume III, Radiant Heating, Water Heaters, Ventilation, Air Conditioning, Heat Pumps, Air Cleaners, James E. Brumbaugh, ISBN 0-672-23383-5 (v. 3) or ISBN 0-672-23380-0 (set) Special Sales Director, Macmillan Publishing Co., 866 Third Ave., New York, NY 10022. Macmillan Publishing Co., NY
Installation Guide for Residential Hydronic Heating Systems
Installation Guide #200, The Hydronics Institute, 35 Russo Place, Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922
The ABC's of Retention Head Oil Burners, National Association of Oil Heat Service Managers, TM 115, National Old Timers' Association of the Energy Industry, PO Box 168, Mineola, NY 11501. (Excellent tips on spotting problems on oil-fired heating equipment. Booklet.)
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