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Water Pump Won't Stop Running Diagnosis, & Repair       Why Won't My Well Pump Shut Off? How to diagnose a water pump that won't shut off - the well pump keeps on running Table of causes and cures of continuous water pump operation Water Pump malfunction diagnosis guide How to avoid damaging a water pump Questions & Answers about diagnosing and fixing a well pump that won't stop running References

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How to diagnos & fix a water pump that doesn't shut off: this article explains how to diagnose & repair a water pump that keeps on running and won't shut off. We include a Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off.

Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman.

Why Won't My Well Pump Shut Off?

Following our description of reasons that a well pump won't stop running (just below) we provide a Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off

This article series answers just about any question you may have about pumps, wells, and drinking water. Even before performing water quantity, quality, equipment function tests, there is an enormous amount we can determine about a building's water supply just by looking at the equipment.

The photograph at page top shows a one-line jet pump, the water pressure tank, and a water softener. We know from the fact that this is a single line jet well pump that the well is a shallow one, probably less than 27' deep. Well depth may have implications for water quantity and quality and vulnerability to surface water contamination.

Watch out: the first thing to do to protect your pump from damage if it simply wont' turn off is to shut off electrical power to the pump. If the building has no water pressure, turn off the water pump immediately. Running a water pump "dry" risks causing internal damage to the pump. If there is no water pressure, see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR.

If your well pump is turning on and off too often, see WATER TANK REPAIRS and further details at SHORT CYCLING CAUSES - why does the water pump keep shutting on and off so quickly? If your pump won't start, see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR and PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR. At WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING we discuss water pumps that won't shut off.

If your building has some water pressure (check at a nearby faucet) but the well pump keeps on running and won't shut off, that's what we are discussing here. Several problems can cause a water pump to keep running instead of shutting off when it should, and each of these suggests its own diagnostic step to finding out what's happening with your well pump.

• Water may be running somewhere in the building. Check for a running faucet or fixture indoors, including checking for running toilets. Remember to check outside garden hoses and watering systems. If all fixtures are turned off, make sure that you don't have a burst pipe somewhere. Remember to check heating boilers and water heaters for leaks too.
• The well pump may have lost prime. See WELL PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE for two methods that almost always work to get a dry well pump going again. Make sure that you have adequately primed the pump and do not let a well pump run dry - you are likely to damage it.
• The pump pressure control switch may be set to a higher pressure than the pump can achieve - this is more likely if someone has been fooling around with the switch. See Water Pressure Adjustment how to adjust the water pressure in a building.
• The well water level may have dropped and the pump is unable to pick up and deliver water in sufficient volume - this is possible if the well piping has a low-water tailpiece installed to protect a submersible pump from burnup. In this design if water level in the well drops too low the tailpiece causes water to re circulate through the pump rather than being sent up the piping to the building served by the well. See these articles: Well Flow Rate, Well Yield, Well Water Quantity: How Much Water is In the Well? Well Flow Rate, Yield Improvement Methods How to Get More Water From a Well without drilling a new well, and see Well Life Expectancy of Wells how long should a water well and its components last?
• The pump may have suffered internal damage to a seal, bearing, or impeller. The motor will keep running but the pump is unable to develop normal pressures. See Life Expectancy of Water Pumps - Well Pumps: how long should a water pump last? What affects pump life?
• The well piping may have a leak. This includes "hidden" leaks such as a leak in the piping inside the well or between the well and the building. If such a leak is present you may observe that water pressure in the system drops when the pump is turned off even though no water is running in the building.
• A leaky foot valve in the well or a hidden running water source in the building such as a running toilet can also cause this symptom. See Repeated Loss of Pump Prime for a discussion of well piping foot valves and the relation to loss of well pump prime.
  
• A failing well piping low water cutoff control or well tailpiece intended to protect the well pump from damage by a low-flow or poor recovery rate well may have failed or may be needed. See WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE for details.
• The well pump output rate may have exceeded the well's safe flow rate, or a well drawdown cutoff device or tailpiece in the well may have failed (or may be needed and missing). See WATER PUMP TYPES & LIFE EXPECTANCY where we describe these conditions and parts.

Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off

At WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING is our full article discussing the causes for water pumps that won't shut off. Here we provide a Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off.

Watch out: the first thing to do to protect your pump from damage if it simply wont' turn off is to shut off electrical power to the pump. If the building has no water pressure, turn off the water pump immediately. Running a water pump "dry" risks causing internal damage to the pump. If there is no water pressure, see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR. Some of the well pump troubleshooting suggestions in this list can be found at the Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual from the National Pump Co.

What to Check if the Well Pump Will Not Stop Running
Pump Won't Stop Cause	Diagnostic Procedure	Repair Procedure
Water running in the building If water is running somewhere in the building water supply system (don't forget outside garden hoses and lawn sprinklers) at a rate faster than the pump can deliver from the well, the pump will run continuously.	Turn off the main water supply to the building, typically found at the water pressure tank. If the pump continues to run the problem is not likely to be a running fixture or pipe leak downstream (in the building) from this point. If you have turned off water at the water pressure tank and the well pump is still running, before blaming the pump, controls, piping, well, lookonce more for water supply piping that may be ahead of the valve where you turned off water.	Turn off or repair running toilets, outdoor garden hose hook-ups or lawn sprinklers, or supply piping that is leaking. If this was the problem source the well pump will continue to run until pressure builds up to the pressure control switch cut-out level and the pump should stop. If the pump runs on, check the remaining diagnostic steps below.
Lost prime at the well pump If the above-ground (jet pump) pump has lost prime the pump may be running "dry" continuously.	Watch out: turn off the pump immediately to avoid damage. If no water is being delivered and the pump is running and it's an above ground pump, turn off power and inspect the pump cavity for the presence of water by removing the priming plug. If the pump is a submersible unit in the well, loss of prime is not normally an issue. A bad check valve or failed foot valve can lead to loss of well prime.	Re-prime the pump - see WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE If the problem is recurrent see   WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES   WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES   WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS   WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
Water pressure control switch setting errors Improper switch adjustment can cause too-rapid pump cycling	If you or someone else has tried "adjusting" the cut-in or cut-out settings of the pressure control switch, it may be set improperly.	Check / change pressure switch pressure settings to correct adjustment for cut-in and cut-out. Normally we see about 20 psi between cut-in and cut-out pressures. Lower the pump cut-out pressure setting. If the pump stops, this was the problem. See:     PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT
Water pressure switch tubing clogged Clogged pressure sensor or switch pressure sensing tubing can cause improper switch performance. See WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL	If the switch is not responding consistently to changes in building water pressure the pressure-sensing component of the switch or the tubing connecting it maybe defective. Try removing the tubing and blowing air through it.	Check pressure switch tubing for leaks or clogging. Clean or replace the tubing. The clog could also be debris in the orifice on the bottom of the pressure switch sensor, or inside the sensor requiring that the switch be replaced. See:     PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE
Water pressure switch contact points burned/welded	Arcing may have burned the pressure control switch contacts. In some cases the contacts may become "welded" together in the closed (power on) position. Turn off electrical power (for safety) and examine the contact points. If they are stuck together and burned this may be the problem.	You will need to replace the switch. See PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE
Well piping leak A bad leak anywhere in the well piping between the building water pressure tank and the bottom of the well can leak enough water when the pump is running that the pump cannot raise pressure in the pressure tank up to the cut-out level and the well pump will continue running.	Close the main building water supply valve between the pressure tank and the rest of the building. Turn off the well pump electrical power. Watch the water pressure gauge. If pressure continues to drop there may be a leak in well piping. If the gauge does not move, tap it to be sure the gauge is not itself stuck. Also air coming out of building plumbing fixtures can be caused by air leaks into the same well piping when the pump is not running.	Leaks in well piping will usually require pulling the piping in the well and if no leak is observed there, it may be necessary to excavate along the path of the well line between well and building. Start excavation by looking for wet spots on the ground that could be caused by a well piping leak. See WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS
Loss of water in the well	If the well water level has fallen too low or the well recovery rate is too poor, or if the well pump is oversized for the well flow rate, the pump may run continuously. Other symptoms of this problem include air discharge at plumbing fixtures.	Install a properly-sized well pump matched to the well flow rate. Install a tailpiece and/or low water cutoff device to protect the pump from damage. Investigate and fix the cause of a poor flow rate or low-yield well. See WELL FLOW RATE Define Safe Yield for a Well. WELL LIFE EXPECTANCY WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR WATER QUANTITY IMPROVEMENT WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
Plugged ejector assembly, tailpiece,or foot valve or well screen in the well	Debris clogging the screen at the water pickup in the well can reduce the water flow rate. To diagnose and correct this problem it is necessary to pull the well piping and inspect the ejector, tailpiece, foot valve or well screen for clogging	Clean or replace the clogged parts. See   WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES   WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES   WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS   WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
Well pump capacity is inadequate A well pump that cannot pump water pressure up to the pressure control-switch cut-off point.	If you are confident that none of the explanations above diagnose a well pump that runs on, check that the pressure gauge is itself accurate - that's how we make sure that the pressure control switch is not set above pump capacity. Having eliminated all of the explanations above, we suspect the pump may have become internally damaged and it will need repair or replacement.	Turn off electrical power to the well system, remove system water pressure (save water for pump re-priming if necessary). Remove and inspect the well pump and pump motor for proper operation. Check the pump impeller assembly for mechanical damage, broken internal parts, or mineral deposits or debris clogging that reduce water flow through the pump. Replace the impeller assembly and other pump parts as needed or replace the entire pump assembly. See WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM WELL PUMP TYPES & LIFE EXPECTANCY WELL PUMP PRIMING GUIDE

...

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about well pumps that won't stop running

Question: Water pressure drops and well pump never stops

Well starts out ok but within minutes has dropped pressure never does stop pumping water but it sure does get low whats up? - Ken

Reply: what to check when the pump never reaches cutoff pressure

If your pump runs continuously and never reaches cut-off pressure, there are several possible causes (see the table of problems above) such as

- pressure switch cut-out set higher than pump is capable of reaching (for example worn pump or broken impeller)

- low water in the well

- leak in well piping

- running so much water at once in the building that the pump can't catch up

Question: Water pressure surges and pump keeps running

My well is continuing to pump but with surges. Pressure at pump and at pressure valve at house both read 24 to 32 LBS bouncing back and forth. Whole weel system is new and was installed 4th of July weekend. It worked fine all day and then went to take shower and it was next to nothing coming out of faucet. - George

Reply: water surging may mean the pump is short cycling due to a waterlogged pressure tank

George, surging water pressure on a private well and tank system is often due to a water-logged water pressure tank - causing well pump short cycling. See WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING - article link at Related Topics .

Question: Water-to-air cooling system shut down due to lack of water

Last nite house "water-to-air" cooling system shut down -- safety switch shuts it down when water is not available. Well pump had stopped running.

Replaced well pump pressure switch and pressure guage. Well pump then reached 48 psi and ran continuously at that pressure even though ALL house fixtures and cooling system were shut off !!

The well pump would not reach the 60 psi cut-off point that was preset in the new pressure switch. I then tightened down of the large spring in the pressure switch. With all house water requirements turned off and turning the large spring tighter, the pump would not come above 48 psi and ran continuously. So then I loosened up on the large spring.

Now the pump turns off at about 46 psi. The pump is above ground, single-pipe, jet pump, about 25 years old. Also checked all pipes -- no leaks. This situation really mystifies me. I will appreciate any and all ideas, thiughts, suggestions. I would like to see it cut on around 30-35 and cut off around 50-55 approx. Thanks, Stan

This situation really mystifies me. I will appreciate any and all thoughts, ideas, suggestions - Stan L. Liteborn, liteborn@comcase.net

Reply:

Stan, the part of your well pump problem description that reads

"Replaced well pump pressure switch and pressure guage. Well pump then reached 48 psi and ran continuously at that pressure even though ALL house fixtures and cooling system were shut off !!"

Suggests to me that either your well flow rate is inadequate - the water available from the well is insufficient - or there could be a leak in the well piping between the well and the house. Other problerms can look like an inadequate well flow rate, such as a leak in well piping.

Reader follow-up:

Here's present situation: Well pump worked last nite (7/21) and most of today. Late this afternoon, cooling system shut down again. Well pump motor was running, pump itself was too hot to touch and no water was available (opened tank drain faucet and only air came out). I shut off power to well pump, closed main water valve between tank and house and connected up to neighbors well. This has better pressure than I've ever had but not enough volume to run the cooling system (too long a run with hoses from neighbor to me). I will leave it this way till morning and then inspect along pipe route from house to my well, to see if any water is coming out of ground. Higher pressure from neighbors system may thus reveal your suggested .."leak in the well piping between the well and the house". If thats not it, looks like I have either a well or a pump problem --- or both!! How to check well itself for broken/rusted out/cracked pipe? How to check for bad foot valve in well? How to check for well sufficiency / water availability in well. How to check if pump is working, if it will pump water or is broken / worn out? Or is it the best approach to replace 1 item at a time till the problem is solved?? Where to start? Again, I really appreciate your interest and concern to assist with suggestions thus far. Hoping to hear from you with some thoughts about present situation and questions. Thank you so much, Stan

Reply: a hot to touch well pump sounds like the pump is running dry - things to check:

Stan, pump too hot to touch sure sounds like a pump running dry - and maybe a well without water. If you shut off all water into the house and water pressure still drops then that's why I suggested there may be a leaky check valve foot valve or piping. But your description makes us think it's a well problem.

In general it's reasonable to try replacing the less costly, easy to access questionable components first; Also if you end up needing to pull the well line for inspection/repairs, I would always install a new foot valve at that time.

Question: Good water pressure but high electric bills - we think it's the water pump but can't find any leaks

We are having a similar issue with our well.....we have good water pressure at the house and saw an increase in the electric bill.....cant seem to find any leaks....our well is 375 ft deep, and the pump is only 5 years old......any suggestions? - Regina

Reply: check for piping leaks; check the pump current draw ampacity using a clamp-on ammeter

Regina: turn off water into the home and see what happens - if your pump runs anyway then you have a leak between the in-building equipment and the bottom of the piping in the well.

Also, your plumber or well driller can measure the amps current draw of the pump to see if it's damaged or drawing unusual current.

Question: My Goulds jet pump pressure hangs at 39 psi - never reaches the 40 psi cutoff

I have a goulds jet pump that pumps up to 39ibs a stays there . the pump is set to shut off at 40lbs so it stays running .It dose not lose it prime .the water inside the crock well is 2 feed over foot valve .no leaks outside. can you help me ? - Ron

If I have a leak between the jet pump an the bottom of pipe in side the well. Will I lose the prime?

Reply:

Ron I agree it does not sound like a leak. Try making a small adjustment to the pressure switch cut out pressure to drop it to 38 psi. IF the problem recurs I suspect a clogged sticking pressure control switch sensor.

Question: We lost water pressure and see water leaking into the well pit where the tank is located

We have loss water pressure, & discovered water leaking into pit were we have the bladder for well, what needs to be done? - Barbara

Reply:

Barbara, start by having a clear idea of where the leak is coming from. Indeed a leak in well piping or at the water tank could result in lower water pressure.

Question: My pump keeps running but the pressure gauge at the water tank sa

I do have some water flow. Pump is a submersiable about 300 ft deep. The contacts are pulled in - I am pulling 7 amps. My bladder tank is about 400 ft. from the pump. The line coming directly from the well is cold. The pressure gauge at the bladder tank is on 0 psi Where do I begin to troubleshoot? - Gary

Reply:

Gary if the pressure tank is at 0 psi either the tank is not working (intake port blocked by a collapsed tank bladder?) or the well flow rate has deteriorated, or there is a problem with the pump or well piping. Start at the pressure tank.

Question: My pump won't shut off - the pressure builds to 36 psi and hangs there. If I turn the pump off the pressure drops to 30. Pump does not lose prime.

I have a bladder tank and jet pump. The pump will not shut off, the pressure will build up to 36 psi and just stay there, that's with the line going to the house shut off. If I turn the pump off, after a while the pressure will drop to 30 psi, but the pump never loses its prime. Any ideas to fix? - JJ

Reply:

JJ I've added some diagnostics to the table above, please take a look.

Diagnose by turning off water into the building, turn off the pump, and watch the water pressure. If pressure falls there is probably a bad check valve, foot valve, or leak in the well piping.

If pressure seems to "stick" at 30 psi try tapping the pressure gauge to see if it's sticking too.

Question:

the cold water inside home is heating up why - NJ Payne

Reply:

NJ Payne,
your question is not quite clear, but if you mean what would cause an increase in cold water supply temp in a home, it could be seasonal changes, pipe routing of cold piping through hot areas or adjacent to hot water piping, or an actual mix of hot water into the piping system via a mixing valve or an improper connection.

Cold water supply that flows initially out of indoor piping will be warmer as well from having absorbed heat from the building.

Question:

We have a Flotec jet pump for our shallow well. After recently running dry (water level must have dropped below the foot valve), the pump continued to run and overheat. This required replacement of several sections of the PVC piping, as it had deformed due to the high temperature. We also installed a new pressure switch (30/50) that has a safety cut-off feature. The pressure tank is set correctly (checked several times, and it is still holding steady at 28 psi). We have primed the pump several times, but it is not operating correctly. The pump kicks on at the correct pressure, but will not turn off. It gets to about 40psi, and stays there.

Is there still some air in the pump, or has the pump been damaged to where it can no longer generate enough pressure? Or maybe there is another issue?

Thanks for any input. - Alan

Reply:

Alan, it's possible that running your pump at length, dry, damaged the impeller assembly. If that's the case, even though the motor may run, the impeller may simply not be moving water with as much force as previously. You'll need to disassemble the pump, inspect, and replace the impeller parts if that's the problem. Keep us posted, what you learn will help other readers.

Reader Follow-up:

Disassembly of the pump as recommended revealed no obvious signs of damage.
But, since the pump has run dry a few times in the past, I think we will go ahead and order a rebuild kit and replace the internal components anyway.

As a temporary measure, we were able to get the system back up and running by reducing the pressure switch setting by about 3 psi. The pump now turns off at about 40 psi. Hopefully the pump will continue to be able to function at this level until we can get it rebuilt.

Reply:

Alan, if a well pump is worn or if for another reason the pump is having trouble reaching the cut-off pressure, setting the pressure down to a point that the pump can reach is quite reasonable. But watch out: if the problem recurs you'll need to find and fix the actual problem: with the pump, piping leak, low well water, etc.

Question: My deep well pump won't pump up to 50 psi. Even turning down the cut-out pressure doesn't help.

I have a deepwell pump that wont pump up to 50psi. I have had to turn down the cut-off pressure twice so that the pump would shut off. Does that mean that my pump is going out? - Rodney

Reply:

Rodney, any of the problems listed in our checklist table above could explain why your pump won't reach full pressure. Typically it's low water supply in the well; sometimes a well piping leak; or see the details listed above.

Question: Shallow well pump won't stop running - after flushing a toilet

I have a shallow well pump that won't stop running after starting when the tank is drawn down by a toilet flush. The pump will start to build pressure but then just stops building and continues to run. If I cycle power to the pump, even if it is just off then on quickly the pump begins to build pressure and will shut off. This only happens when the pump begins to run after a tank draw down from a toilet flush. If any other fixture running causes the tank draw down and the pump to start it builds pressure and shuts off. I am at a loss on where to start.

Reply:

Ted,

When the pump never shuts off ONLY after a toilet flush one has to suspect that the toilet keeps running - its tank fill valve may be stuck; Otherwise I'd think the pump and well would eventulally be able to reach cutout pressure once the toilet stopped calling for water.

But a well pump and tank ought to be able to keep up with the water demand from just a toilet tank fill-up alone, so there may be another problme. I''m just guessing but it sounds as if your pump is having trouble reaching the cutoff pressure or has for some reason reduced capacity. When you turn on say a sink faucet the pump probably comes on and runs all the time that you are running water in the sink, but successfully runs up to cutoff pressure and stops when you close the sink faucet.

But when you flush the toilet, the toilet fill cycle may continue for a while (as if you'd left a faucet open), so the pump may be continuing to run because while the toilet is drawing water the pump isn't reaching the cutoff pressure. By the time you walk down to the pump and turn power off and back on the toilet may have finished filling.

If that's the case it would be very odd, because the inflow rate into the toilet tank is so slow that I'd expect the pump to be capable of getting "ahead" of the flow rate and thus reach cutoff pressure. That's why I speculated that the pump capacity or well flow rate may be more limited than you thought.

Check the draw-down cycle on your water pressure tank too. You should have at least 30 seconds of draw down from a full-pressure state before the pump has to come on.

Question: A few times a month we lose water pressure and it won't return until I shut off power to give the pump a rest

We have a 5 year old well. A few times or more a month we lose water pressure and it won't come back unless I shut the breaker off and give the pump a break. Sometimes the water comes back in an hour and sometimes it takes over night. We have a submerisable pump with a check valve on it in front of it and right before the tank. Before we put the one on at the tank it would drain down. Or at least sound like it. It is 120' well with the pump at 100' and water starts at 30'in the well casing. If I water the plants for 15 minutes or wash 4-5 loads of clothes with a water saver washer and take a bath all in one day (not one right after the other) it is done. I am a x-city person and not sure if I am expecting to much. Our neighbors have great water and no problems with draining their well. Any ideas? - Janice H.

Reply: you are describing a well with a poor recovery rate

Janice you are describing a well with a poor recovery rate or flow rate. Check with your local well driller to ask about hydro-fracking or other steps that might increase the yield of your well.

Question: the plumber dropped our pump into the well, then retrieved it - now we have bad water pressure

Hey, I had to replace submersible pump the company ended up dropping the pump and seven of pipe . Took the several days to get out of 300 ft. hole. Now it supposedly fixed but terrible water pressure. The first had a pump but said was not enough hp so got another one for 200 dollars more. Could they damaged the pump and still used it or went back to the smaller hp to cover damaged pump. I have turned off several fixtures pressure got somewhat better. I am at a loss thanks - James

Reply:

James, I'm sorry to read about your well pump drop and aggravation. Certainly a pump could be damaged by dropping. I SPECULATE that the damage risk depends on some variables such as the distance the assembly fell through air before impacting water. With no facts, we can't second-guess what the pump installed did afterwards.

At this point it makes sense to get an accurate diagnosis of exactly why your water pressure is poor, and to see where that leads. There are plenty of things to check including the delivery rate of the pump and well, the amps being drawn by the pump, correct pump wiring (making a wiring mistake can leave a pump running but at low power), piping leaks, and more.

Try starting at WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR (article link at Related Topics ) and keep us posted - what you find will help other readers.

Question:

I replaced my water pump last year. This year I left the hose pipe running for about 30 min on the grass, and I suddenly had no water pressure and no water. I cut the pump off, but when I cut it back on....the pressure never builds above 28 psi. The badder tank is at 28 psi too. I can not adjust the pump where it will be 2psi more than the tank. Pump is primed, but not pumping water. What is wrong?!? I am a single 29 yo woman in nursing school!! I need water! - Tammy 3/31/12

Reply:

Tammy, I'm not sure from your question - best bet is to go through the diagnostic steps in the table above, or if you prefer text, see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR (article link in the previous question's reply, also found at Related Topics ).

If water pressure eventually returned, I suspect you have run out the well itself.

If water pressure was never corrected, the pump itself may have become damaged, or there oculd be a well piping leak - or one of the other problems listed in the table above or in the article I referenced.

Let us know what you find - that will help other readers.

Question: Water pump seems to run continuously but no water comes into the house

I have a system where water is stored in 600 gallon tanks at the basement level of my house. The water is then pumped up to
supply the main level of the house. There is a water accumulator tank with a pump set at about 35 - 40 psi. When my storage tanks
are full there is good water supply to the house. Once the tank water level drops to half, the pump runs continuously but there is no
water in the house.

The tank level also drops then even though no water is coming into the house. I cannot find any obvious leaks
but of course I cannot see pipes that are in the foundation. It seems that there must be a leak or siphon problem but what explains that the pump works well when the tanks are full? - Robert 4/4/12

Reply:

With the water tank level dropping and the pump running continuously, I wonder if you have a leak in the well piping that you didn't see - perhaps deep into the well or under the foundation; Try shutting down the system entirely and watching for a water pressure drop.

Robert, if no water is entering the building and tank pressure drops i suspect a badfoot valve, check valve, or aleak in well piping

Question: how do I clean a clogged, brittle plastic tube between the water pump and pressure switch?

Water pump comes on & off very rapidley
Plastic tube from switch to motor is very brital don't know how I can clean it - Albert Bonneveld Water 4/6/12

Reply:

Albert, don't even try to clean that brittle plastic line that transmits water pressure from the pump system to the pressure control switch. If the line is brittle the risk is a break and a building leak or flood. Just turn off the pump, remove the line, take it to your local hardware store to match its size and length, and install a new one.

Question: 3/4HP StaRite well pump won't stop running

I have 3/4 HP Sta Rite Pump that will not stop running. I have installed a new 30 to 50 pressure switch and 0 to 100 PSI gage. No leaks in the system. Pressure tube is clear. Bladder tank is set at 27 psi. Pump will build pressure to 55 PSI and will not stop running with all valves shut. - Gary S 4/22/12

Reply:

Gary, as you installed a new 30/50 psi switch, and report pump keeps runnng at 55 pzi, i suspect some one or combination of

Switch cutout set abov 55 psi
Miswiring
Bad pressure gauge
And
A well with limited recovery rate

Start by checking wiring and switch adjustments.

Keep us posted, it will help others

Question: well pump won't shut off after replacing pressure tank and switch, gurgling in pipes

I have just recentlyreplaced my well expansion tank and pressure switch. Now my deep well pump continues to pump without shutting off. I have checked for leaks in my home and two outbuildings that also share the same well but everything is tight and there are no leaks. I have also shut the valve on the discharge pipe closest to where the water exits the expansion tank. By doing this it allows the pressure to build to approximately 50 lbs at which point the pump does shut off but then it almost immedietly starts losing the pressure and drops to approximately 20lbs at which point the pump restarts. The oddest thing is that while I'm near my expansion tank which is located in my basement I can hear a very loud gurgling noise coming through the plastic pipe that encases the electrical wires that are hooked up to my underground well pump/shaft. The gurgling is happening at almost precisely the same time, coinciding almost exactly with when I'm losing the pressure! - Ken in Jersey 5/10/12

Reply:

Sounds like a bad check valve or foot valve - is water running backwards from the pressure tank into the well each time the pump shuts off?

Question: well pump runs every 7 minutes if we are running water outside

Pump runs every 7 minutes when valve to outside water is on. Seems OK when I turn the valve off -= but have to keep turning it on when i need to use the hose outside. Can you tell me who to call? Plumber, well drilling company, irrigation company? Please help!!!! - Carolyn Muldowney 7/3/12

Reply:

I'm confused Carolyn, it seems proper that to run water at an outside hose you'd need to turn water supply on to that fixture. And if you are running water outside continuously, it seems normal that the pump would cycle on at 7 minute intervals. If something is nonetheless wrong with your equpiment, I'd start with a plumber.

Question: well pump with relief valve in the well pipe line - relief valve is spilling

i have a well pump with a relief valve in the line just outside the well pipe. when i run water in the house the relief valve open and dumps some water. does this indicate i have a tank problem? - Bob S 7/7/12

Reply:

Bob,

Check the water pressure when the valve is spilling. Also, water hammer can cause spillage at the relief valve.

Question: Jet Pump keeps kicing on for 1-4 seconds every 30 seconds

I'm having problems with my Jet Pump, it continually kicks on and off for 1-4 seconds every 30 seconds or so and I am wondering what the cause of this may be. I have no water turned on and there are no leaks I have been able to detect. I have a shallow well, and the pressure seems fine at the tank.
Any suggestions on possible causes? - Glenn 7/19/12

Reply:

If you have no water running in the building AND can actually turn off water into the building and the pump keeps cycling on and off then it sounds as if there is either a bad foot valve or check valve or a leak in well piping. I'm assuming there are no visible leaks above ground.

That very short well pump on-time is sometines traced to a clogged water filter or a collapsed bladder in a water pressure tank.

Question: Deep well, Goulds 3HP pump, just a water trickle in the home

I have a 750 ft deep well, goulds 3 HP pump...well and pressure tank together 100 feet below home site. Only have a trickle inside of home. I have about 45 psi at well...turn on one faucet it drops to zero. pump will run all the time if allowed. Have 30-50 pressure switch. Diagnosed as bad impeller...must pull well pump. NO leaks detected. Pulling 12.5 amps...motor sounds smooth. Technician said I should have about 80 # pressure on guage with the 3 HP at 750 feet. Do you agree with his diagnosis? Thank you so much. - Anon 7/31/12

Reply:

Yes, Anon. I agree that you ought to see good pressure in the house; IF there are no well pipe leaks and the system can't develop pressure it makes sense to check the pump for damage; first you might want to check the wiring and voltage levels.

Question: well pump hesitates for a minute before coming on

My well pump would hesitate for about a miniute before coming on, while running water. I replaced the pressure switch and now the pump will not shut off. It builds up to 90 to 100 psi , but keeps running. I put a second switch on and it does the same thing. Both pressure
switches were new. Any idea? Pressure in my expansion tank builds to 50+ lbs. while pump is running. - Larry 7/31/12

Reply:

Larry quite often a delay like that is due to clogging at the pressure sensing port of the pressure control switch, or the tube that feeds it. If you replaced the switch but left a clogged pressure line in place the problem would remain.

Question: well pump runs continuously after recent storm, no pressure, but water comes out of the relief valve

Have a well pump that began to run continuously after a recent storm and no pressure builds in the system BUT an apparent pressure relief valve on the pump body emits a high pressure stream of water. Doesn't seem like a loss of prime with the high pressure stream but the system pressure is zero while all this is going on. Any thoughts? - John 8/1/12

Reply:

John, our best guesses for a pump that won't stop are in the article above, but your comment about the problem showingup after a storm suggest that a pump control or switch or wire may have been damaged by a power surge or lightning. The opening of the pressure relief valve is consistent with a pump that is not shutting off and is overpressurizing the system.

"System pressure at zero" makes me think your pressure gauge is not working.

Double check that the pressure control switch is properly sensing water pressure - as if it is not, say due to dirt clogging of its sensor port - it could keep the pump running forever.

Question: well pump runs continuously, contact points in the switch are burned

This past Wednesday my Mom noticed the pump contiuously running. Sunday when i get there I notied the contacts in the pressure switch looked burnt. i replaced the pressure switch but the pump still won't shut off.
1) Water is running in the house
2) the well isnt dry
3) there's were not wet spots on the ground between the pump and house
4) there's no water under the house
5) we pulled out the pipe from the well and saw no holes
6) adjusted the pressure and it stil wont turn off
7) the pressure is holding at 30psi
8) the pump is a Star-Rite 1/3hp serial: s48h2ec11 model: 6d81
9) the motor house was hot to the touch

HELP ....im at a loss...Thanks - Derrick 8/6/12

Reply:

Derrick:

First shut off all water into the house - so we can be sure that the house demand is not causing the pump to run.

Then shut off the pump power switch and watch the pressure gauge. If the pressure drops, there is a leak somewhere between house water pressure tank and well bottom.

If the pressure holds then I suspect the pressure control switch or wiring. IF your water has sediment or debris, clogging can occur not only on the sensor port on the bottom of the pressure control switch but also in the mounting nipple or tube that conducts water pressure to the switch from the pressure tank/piping.

The hot motor is normal for a pump that is not shutting off.

keep us posted

Question: replaced pump and parts 3 years ago but now pump now won't shut off

I replaced my jet pump, foot valve and all lines from jet pump down to foot valve 3 years ago. Well maybe 50' deep and the pump is a 1/3 hp pump, that's what was there originally. After replacing all this the pressure would not build above 25psi and sit there and the pump ran continuously. after a while of adjusting the pressure switch I managed to get the pump to shut off at 25psi. At this point the pump began to work well, cutting on at almost 0psi and cutting off @ 25psi. This was not perfect but it did the job.

This past weekend the pump stopped cutting off automatically. With adjustment I got it to stop running but then it wouldn't turn on just on-off-on-off.

I replaced the pressure switch and same thing. Sometimes when I shut off the pump, manually, the pressure would instantly drop to 0psi, sometimes it will hold @ 25psi, and still other times it will drop to 0psi and then over a couple of seconds build to 20-25psi, while pump is shut off. I shut off the valve between the pressure tank and the rest of the house and the pressure did not drop, over 5-10 min. Please help, this pump not automatically shutting off is driving me crazy. Sorry for the long post. - Mike 8/15/12

Reply:

Intermittent occurrence of sudden dropping pressure suggests a sticky check valve or foot valve.

Question: City water and Goulds pressure booster pump - pump cycles all the time

We live on a hillside. I have city water that is sent through a Goulds V250 tank and a 1.5 HP pump to boost the pressure before it heads into the house. The pump began cycling continually and drastically spiked our electric bill. I replaced the switch and discovered the neck was corroded and I assumed this was not allowing the water pressure to signal it to cycle off. After replacing the switch, it is still cycling continuously. None of the suggestions above seem to fit. Any thoughts? Thank you for your time. - Oscar 8/31/12

Reply:

Oscar, did you replace the tubing that conducts pressure to the pressure control switch? It may be clogged.

Question: Pump keeps running and won't get above 25 psi

We have a shallow well double hose system but total hose reaches approximately 65 feet from well bottom to pump. Our pump keeps running and will only reach 25 psi. The pressure does not drop. We have tried turning off the valve where the water comes into the house, still no pressure loss. Have not touched the pressure control switch. we have had the pipes out and have not noticed any significant leakage.Great water pressure coming out of the tap. What do you recommend further. thanks joe - Anon 9/2/12

Reply:

If you have "great water pressure" but the pump gauge only says 25 psi (and pump keeps running) perhaps both the pressure gauge and the pump pressure control switch sensors are clogged with rust or debris.

Question: shallow well pump won't shut off, I turned it off manually, then it lost prime

i have a shallow well pump that will not shot off so i turned the power off and the next morning i had to prime it and it still will not shut off - Dallas 9/22/12

Reply:

Dallas, I'd start by going through the "well pump won't shut off" diagnostic suggestions in the article above - as that list is our best advice.

Loss of prime is consistent with a pump that just keeps running: if the pump can't maintain prime (say from a bad foot valve or a leaky well line) then the pump motor will just keep spinning away forever - which is a great way to burn up the pump motor or damage the impeller assembly.

IF the pump was primed and running and was delivering water BUT then lost prime after you turned it off manually, I suspect a leak in the well piping or a leaky check valve or foot valve.

Question: water pump suddenly can't maintain water pressure

My water pump suddenly stopped keeping water pressure in our cottage.

The pipe down to the lake stays primed. The pump stays mostly primed. The pressure tank does not seem to be getting any water at all. The pump is not moving water out and into the cottage system.

This started happening suddenly. The pump does not turn off, or reach full pressure - it hovers around 20psi, struggles to get to 30psi. If a tap is turned on in the cottage, the pressure immediately drops to zero and the water flow ceases.

The pump and pressure tank are both new this summer, and had been working. Thanks for any thoughts. - Sandra 10/8/12

Update:

As an update, it seems we've had air in our lines. Some new connections we made this summer putting in a new pump and pressure tank and foot valve were ridiculously loose when we double-checked them yesterday. It must be that they were installed on a hot day, and now it is much cooler, getting close to freezing at night...I have no idea if that is possible, but the connections were finger-loose surprisingly.

We're almost back up to normal, but on taking a shower, pressure started out beautiful then backed off by almost half. Water continued to run during the shower, and the pump turned itself off after the shower, perhaps we just still have a bit more air in there. Much thanks. - Sandra 10/9/12

Update:

At the risk of posting too many messages, we're so lost at figuring this out, I'm going to risk it. :)

Last night, after not using the water for a couple of hours, turning on the taps produced no water at all, not even a hiss of air. Turned things off to look at it in the morning.......the pump still had prime, the line to the lake still has prime. Turned the pump on, but the pressure gauge didn't react at all. Nothing.

I've now duct taped every brand new connection, the same reaction, even when a tap was opened, that didn't help draw water. Tried a 3rd time and the pressure gauge reacted and the system sounded like it was filling up, i.e. water was coming into the toilet. But before the pump cycled off, there is no water coming out of the taps again, nor a hiss.

The system was working for a couple of months, and suddenly lost pressure the first time when a shower was being run. I'd appreciate any thoughts on this. Thank you. - Sandra 10/10/12

Reply:

Sandra, I'd go step by step through the table above.

Your statement "The pump stays mostly primed. The pressure tank does not seem to be getting any water at all. " is confusing. If the pump is not staying COMPLETELY primed then there may be a leak in the water supply piping or foot valve; or the pump itself may be damaged and is unable to deliver water.

Question: Sears horizontal water tank from 1950s and Sears Air Volume Control; after a running toilet problme the well pump now runs too long

We have a Sears horizontal tank and fittings (probabaly installed in the late 1950s. We also have a Sears Air Volume Control. Some months ago we have come home after being away for several weeks to find the toilet had been running constantly because the ball cock malfuctioned, this led to the water pump running constantly. Now the water pump will run for one half to one quarter of an hour or until I manually shut it off. Some times to restart sometimes not.Im not very handy so when I have it serviced what should I beware of by way of someone taking advantage of me ? - Al 10/26/12

Reply:

Unfortunately Al, when a water pump runs for a very long time continuously, for days or longer, and if the problem is not that you ran the well dry, it's possible that the pump itself has become damaged. I'd pull the pump and inspect for damage to the bearings or impeller assembly.

Question: jacuzzi pump and pressure switch not turning off the pump

I have a jet pump(jacuzzi) pressure switch is 20-40. Thought the switch was bad,so we replaced it. Now the pump just wants to run,will jump up to 55-60.have good water pressure,just wont shut off.have turned it ,it is on factory settings,even with the power off,it is holding at times to 70psi. but if we turn the power on, the pump will not shut off.we do have a bladder tank,it has the recommended pressure of 30 in it. any ideas Y.R. 10/26/12

Reply:

Y.R.
Have you tried replacing the pressure control switch? Often this problem is due to a switch that is not sensing the increase in water pressure.

 

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• Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual, National Pump Co., LLC., includes helpful well pump troubleshooting tips as well as basic jet pump installation details. Web search 07/15/2010, original source: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com/Documents/OIM/Betta%20Flo%20IOM%20Jet%20Pump.pdf

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