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LP gas cylinder regulator in Two Harbors Minnesota (C) Daniel FriedmanLP Propane & Natural Gas Pressure FAQs

  • POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about LP gas pressure, propane gas pressure, and natural gas pressure in piping, at regulators, at appliances

LP or Propane Gas Pressures & Natural Gas Pressure questions & answers:

Questions, answers, FAQs about the common operating pressures of natural gas and LP or liquid petroleum gas at the gas regulators, in building gas piping and at gas appliances.

This article series gives the standard pressure ranges and pressure settings for LP gas, propane gas, and natural gas fuels, including pressures found in the distribution service piping, in the in-building gas piping, and at gas fired appliances such as gas stoves, clothes dryers, furnaces, boilers, and LP gas or natural gas fired water heaters.

Since there several ways that people express gas pressures we include more than on description of common LP gas or natural gas system operating pressures in this article.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

What are the Typical LP or Natural Gas Set Pressures Found in Residential Systems

Flexible underground gas piping for LP or natural gas - at InspectApedia.comRecent questions & answers about LP or natural gas pressures

These questions were posted at the bottom of this page or else at the topic home page at GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS - be sure to review that information.

[Click to enlarge any image]

On 2019-10-03 by (mod) -

Were the distances identical?

On 2019-10-03 by Frustrated


Yes, agreed this would be the initial observation. However the site has a companion 80KW Ford V10 from a different manufacturer with 26K hours on the clock. No issues. We bypassed and ran the companion's fuel lines with the same net result on the frustrated Chevy 8.1L

On 2019-10-03 by (mod) -

Frust

I can but guess from this side of the wall, but the most-common source of the problem you describe of a propane fueled generator having trouble running under load is not the static pressures in the system but a drop in pressure under demand - a problem that most-often is because the LPG pipe diameter is too small for the distance involved.

On 2019-10-03 by Frustrated

The system is running on propane.

We have a 80KW Natural gas generator 11"-14" with the cold start option. gas supplied to the unit High side regulated from 75 psi to 8 psi at the tank, 20 ft of 3/4 pipe to a 9-13 inch regulator. The gen runs hunts and surges, but when it settles out will run under light load. From the onset do I have a volume issue at the 9-13 regulator?

On 2019-09-17 by (mod) -

A distance of just 10 feet ought to be fine - but of course, ducking and weaving, I must add that the best authority is to

1. Identify the generator brand and model

2. pick up the generator installation and operation manual

I know I know you just used that to kneel on during installation and it's all ripped and dirty. But the manufacturer will give the recommended gas line diameters for various run distances from the natural gas supply source to the generator.

3.5" WC gas pressure = about 0.1265 psi
11" WC gas pressure = about 0.397 psi

So you need a gas delivery pressure in that psi range.

A primary regulator of 2 PSI ought to be fine, right?
And your appliance regulator at the generator ought to hold the pressure in the proper lower range we just gave above.

Watch out: yes you want the right regulator for your generator; but I think you had a little typo: you say between 3.5" (inches) and 11' (feet) - I'm pretty sure you meant 11" (inches).

For other readers:

2 lb pressure = 2 psi pressure

28" (inches WC or "water column) of gas pressure = 1 psi (at sea level anyhow)

so

1" (one inch WC) of pressure = 1/28 psi = 0.0357 psi

On 2019-09-17 by Brio

The generator (12 Kw) set for natural gas requires 3.5" min and 11' max pressure, and the Teco technician assured me that 7" inches is "fine" given that the supply line pipe is 3/4" at just 10 feet from the meter.
Is that true?

Since the options are 7" or "2 lb" (2 psi) should I order the 2 lb upgrade for the max load requirement of the generator (11")? I already purchased a second stage regulator as recommended by the generator technician (who assumed the pressure was 2 psi). Please advise.

On 2019-09-17 by Brio

Hello,
Great information. I have have been using a natural gas 40 gallons water heater for many years, with no problems It requires 4.5" min and 10.5" max pressure (rating 34,000 BTU/hr).
Recently I purchased a natural gas generator (12Kw) which requires 3.5" min and 11" max pressure. BTU: 216,000/hr. Volume: 74 cfh to 216 cfh

Question:

The gas company says the standard residential is 7". I purchased a gauge (in psi) which reads that the pressure in my house is less than 3/16 psi which equals to 3.37" WC

The Teco technician came today, and he insisted the pressure must be 7" If I wanted more they would provide "2 lb"

When I showed him the gauge, since it was in a psi scale, he would not understand it (welcome to Miami, FL).

I ordered today another gauge, in WC scale, to bring another technician a figure out what is going on. This technician dismissed the notion of something wrong with a very old (1974) original regulator next to the meter.

According to an operator, Teco supplies 320 cubic feet per hour.

How do you calculate the BTU output from the meter/regulator to the appliance? Generator is at 10 feet (3/4" pipe) whereas the water heater is at 100 ft (1/2" pipe)

Thank you very much in advance,

Brio

On 2019-09-15 by (mod) -

Thanks for the comment, David.

Higher building pressure distribution for LP gas or natural gas is certainly needed in large or tall buildings, though typically a residential property with properly-sized distribution piping ought to have no trouble with single-stage piping.

But right-again, often when people write that they have trouble with inadequate gas flow into an appliance, the supply piping is under-sized.

On 2019-09-13 by charlie b

@David,
I recommend having a high pressure regulator at the propane tank, there well be 10 psi coming from the high pressure regulator,. then run 3/4 inch plastic pipe made for propane gas(under ground) to the house to a second stage regulator.

(11WC to 13WC) from that point for a maim trunk line, run 3/4 inch black pipe and change over at tees with 1/2 inch black pipe or 3/8 inch, according for the needs of the appliances with cut-offs at each outlet.

use thread tape or pipe thread compound at each and every connection. The plastic pipe has be adapted to black pipe before coming out from under ground by code.

You will never have any problems of any appliances starving for propane fuel with heavy demand with this system

On 2019-05-19 by (mod) -

David

It's common to run a gas line from the first stage regulator to a more-distant location where second stage regulator manages delivery pressure in that building; still one finds poor performance if the pipe diameter is inadequate and of course if the proper piping material and installation are not used and followed the installation would be unsafe.

Buried or "underground" LP gas piping must be rated for underground use and in many jurisdictions may also be required to be run inside a protective PVC pipe or sleeve.
Below, as an example is 1 in. IPS x 100 ft. DR 11 Underground Yellow Polyethylene Gas Pipe (Medium density polyethylene (MDPE)) from Home-Flex and sold at building suppliers such as Home Depot. The company also provides special waterproof and corrosion resistant pipe fittings and connectors.

Other underground natural gas or propane gas pipe suppliers include

GasTite Website: gastite.com who provide both iron pipe and copper pipe polyethylene coated and rated for underground gas line use.

There are also special transition fittings required to transition from steel pipe to polyethylene pipe below grade.


Watch out: for safety, code compliance with local gas piping regulations (check with your building or plumbing code inspectors), and to permit locating of any buried all-plastic (polytethylene) gas pipes in the future, you will probably be required to use a magnetic tape or wrap to mark the pipe routing and location.

IMAGE LOST by older version of Clark Van Oyen’s useful Comments code - now fixed. Please re-post the image if you can. Sorry. Mod.

Continuing:

If your local plumbing supplier does not have all of the materials needed for underground LP gas or propane gas piping installations including as piping materials, transition fittings, connectors, magnetic tape, etc., you can contact underground gas piping suppliers directly

Gastite underground gas piping: Website: https://www.gastite.com Tel: 800-662-0208 Email: gastite@gastite.com

Home-Flex underground gas piping Website: http://homeflex.com Tel: 1-661-257-3923

On 2019-05-18 by David

I have a 500 gal propane tank located 200 ft from a new barn I am building. I am planning to install an on-demand hot water heater in the barn, so I will need a substantial propane flow rate at normal operating pressure. I am contemplating running a high pressure line underground from the tank to the barn and reducing the pressure with a separate regulator at the barn.

Two questions:

(1) is there any reason (code or safety) why this is a bad idea, and

(2) if not, what piping is appropriate (3/8 copper? protected by conduit?).

I know that pressure is usually stepped down at the tank, and larger diameter underground lines are typically used from tank to house. Alternatively, I could install another tank at the barn, but that would entail significant tank costs for what is going to be a low-usage scenario.

On 2019-05-19 by (mod) - how to run underground gas piping for LP or natural gas

David

It's common to run a gas line from the first stage regulator to a more-distant location where second stage regulator manages delivery pressure in that building; still one finds poor performance if the pipe diameter is inadequate and of course if the proper piping material and installation are not used and followed the installation would be unsafe.

Buried or "underground" LP gas piping must be rated for underground use and in many jurisdictions may also be required to be run inside a protective PVC pipe or sleeve.
Below, as an example is 1 in. IPS x 100 ft. DR 11 Underground Yellow Polyethylene Gas Pipe (Medium density polyethylene (MDPE)) from Home-Flex and sold at building suppliers such as Home Depot. The company also provides special waterproof and corrosion resistant pipe fittings and connectors.

Other underground natural gas or propane gas pipe suppliers include

GasTite Website: gastite.com who provide both iron pipe and copper pipe polyethylene coated and rated for underground gas line use.

There are also special transition fittings required to transition from steel pipe to polyethylene pipe below grade.

Hansons magnetic tape for marking and future location of buried plastic gas piping - at InspectApedia.com

Watch out: for safety, code compliance with local gas piping regulations (check with your building or plumbing code inspectors), and to permit locating of any buried all-plastic (polytethylene) gas pipes in the future, you will probably be required to use a magnetic tape or wrap to mark the pipe routing and location.

See

Continuing:

If your local plumbing supplier does not have all of the materials needed for underground LP gas or propane gas piping installations including as piping materials, transition fittings, connectors, magnetic tape, etc., you can contact underground gas piping suppliers directly

Gastite underground gas piping: Website: https://www.gastite.com Tel: 800-662-0208 Email: gastite@gastite.com

Home-Flex underground gas piping Website: http://homeflex.com Tel: 1-661-257-3923

On 2019-05-18 by David

I have a 500 gal propane tank located 200 ft from a new barn I am building. I am planning to install an on-demand hot water heater in the barn, so I will need a substantial propane flow rate at normal operating pressure. I am contemplating running a high pressure line underground from the tank to the barn and reducing the pressure with a separate regulator at the barn. Two questions:

(1) is there any reason (code or safety) why this is a bad idea, and

(2) if not, what piping is appropriate (3/8 copper? protected by conduit?). I know that pressure is usually stepped down at the tank, and larger diameter underground lines are typically used from tank to house. Alternatively, I could install another tank at the barn, but that would entail significant tank costs for what is going to be a low-usage scenario.

On 2019-04-06 by (mod) -

The pressure isn't likely the issue but pertinent are distance and pioe diameter.

On 2019-04-02 by Rona

I have an existing natural gas line in my home, ie for the furnace. There is also an outlet for the BBQ on the deck. I would like to swap the electric range for a gas range. Would the existing pipe be enough psi to add a gas range? How do I check before purchasing the gas range?

On 2019-03-28 by (mod) -

Mike

If you were measuring pressure in the LP tank itself then it was essentially out of gas.

LP gas pressure in the LP gas tank - before the LPG regulator placed at the tank is typically 100-200 psi LP gas pressure

LP gas pressures inside a propane tank (before the LP tank regulator) can be much higher than at the gas appliance, anywhere between 100 and 200 psi, which explains why a pressure regulator is needed at the tank (dropping the supply pressure to the range given just above) and a second regulator is used at the appliance to regulate the pressure to the levels required by the appliance itself.

On 2019-03-19 by mike

my lp gas tank for my home is a 15 psi, Is that a problem? My gas company said it will be 10 days before they can fill it.

On 2019-03-28 by (mod) - low pressure at the gas tank may mean out of fuel

Mike

If you were measuring pressure in the LP tank itself then it was essentially out of gas.

LP gas pressure in the LP gas tank - before the LPG regulator placed at the tank is typically 100-200 psi LP gas pressure

LP gas pressures inside a propane tank (before the LP tank regulator) can be much higher than at the gas appliance, anywhere between 100 and 200 psi, which explains why a pressure regulator is needed at the tank (dropping the supply pressure to the range given just above) and a second regulator is used at the appliance to regulate the pressure to the levels required by the appliance itself.

On 2019-03-19 by mike

my lp gas tank for my home is a 15 psi, Is that a problem? My gas company said it will be 10 days before they can fill it.

On 2019-03-14 by Thaddeus

I have 40 stove run on LPG with 4 cylinders each weighing 72 KGS inclusive of the gas. My question is

1. What type of regulator is compatible with the system.

2. At what levels can I set both at the regulator and in the line pipe in terms of psi.

3. For how long can the system run for each cylinder at full throttle. Thank u.

On 2019-03-11 by (mod) - no gas flow through a system

If you're getting no gas flow through a system it sounds to me as if there's a piping or connection error or a valve or pipe section that is damaged, closed, or kinked badly.

On 2019-03-08 by Anonymous

Oh, and thank you for your info.

On 2019-03-08 by Tim

I have tried a new regulator rated at 6 inches to 15 inches, WC. My furnace gas valve is rated at 3 1/2" to 10", max. Nothing is lighting off now. Even my water heater and gas range are out. Still have 12# in my tank, tho. Got plenty of gas. Just can't seem to get it in the house.

And, the gas line from the tank to the house is relatively new too, so that shouldn't be the problem, either.

According to a local Columbia Gas guy, the reg I just installed should work. I fortunately have a 5kw strip in my system for "emergency heat", which is what I'm heating with now but I need to get my gas back on. I don't like paying the power company any more than I have to.

On 2019-03-03 by (mod) -

Tim that sounds like a bad regulator -

In the ARTICLE INDEX live links above there are articles that can help ou

GAS REGULATORS for APPLIANCES

GAS REGULATORS for LP TANKS

On 2019-03-03 by Tim

I live in Eastern Ky and have an oil well that supplies my home with natural gas. Recently my furnace began acting up. When it comes on, glow plug on and calling for gas, when the gas valve opens to fire the burners, it is essentially blowing itself out.

My furnace guy put his gauge on it and it pegged it at 15lb. My water heater and range, however, are doing fine. I have 12lbs in my volume tank. My guess is that the 45 year old regulator feeding the house from the volume tank is shot. I figure the diaphragm is most likely shot.

My question is, what kind of regulator do I need to replace the old one? There are no numbers on it as it's been out in the weather for 45 years. It has 3/4" in and out on the old one. Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks...

On 2018-11-12 1 by (mod) - had a gas leak, now the generator won't run

Could you be out of gas?

On 2018-11-12 by thomasdonohue711@yahoo.com

I have a home generator for our hunting cabin put a new regulator on noticed i could smell gas shut off at tank then tightened all with wrench might have over tighten then checked for leaks used plumer putty no leaks .

now the generator wants to start but only cranks does not sound like it is getting propane. Is it possible I damaged the new regulator brown one and can i reset it somehow. sure would appreciate help. Tom

On 2018-10-30 by (mod) - gas gauge shows 0 psi

Tal

In the article GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS we give typical gas pressures for both LP gas and natural gas.

On 2018-10-30 by Talmadge Foster

How much pressure should gas pipes read without meter in residential home and what should it read and hold so its good enough to have meter installed

On 2018-10-10 by (mod) -

Travis

Thank you for asking interesting and important question. We have fielded questions about this from a number of readers. I'm what I have learned so far, pressure isn't the issue because the pressures are pretty standard and are the same as for other typical Propane fuel appliances.

The problem arises when people run fuel lines over a greater distance. All of these generators come with a table that will show that for a given piping distance you may need to increase the diameter of the fuel piping.

The most Troublesome example of this came up in discussion with a reader who couldn't get his generator to work properly because it never had enough fuel flow. The static pressure was correct but as soon as the generator started using fuel the pressure in the system dropped because his piping was considerably under sized for the length or which it had been run.

that said, I'll see what else I can find and we'll add it here. Thanks again

On 2018-10-09 by Travis

As more and more propane powered generators, or dual fuel as they're called, become available, there should be an explanation of how much pressure is required to power one. For instance, would it be possible to run a portable one off a household propane or natural gas line?

I have found very little explanation of this. If a manufacturer produces a generator that can run off of household pressure, they'd have a big seller. In a hurricane it would last a long time powering necessary home appliances, such as refrigerators.

On 2018-09-20 by (mod) - Which has a larger orifice , l.p. or natural gas

Jeff

Thanks for asking - it's an important and very basic question: what's the relationship of orifice size to natural gas vs propane?

In the article GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS we state

Density of natural gas: ... density of natural gas since natural gas densities vary depending on where the gas was obtained. ... typically in the range of 0.7 to 0.9 kg/m3.

Density of propane: Propane on the other hand has a density of about 1.882 kg/m3 - almost twice the density of natural gas.

Translating that into normal english, because propane is more dense you need to flow less of it into a burner per minute of use; so it'll use a smaller orifice.

See details about gas appliance metering orifices at

CONVERT the GAS ORIFICES or spuds from Natural Gas to Propane - separate article at https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Gas_Orifice_Conversion_LP_NG.php

There are also clues stamped right into the orifice

A typical gas appliance spud or orifice will be marked with

A letter: L (for LPG) or N (for natural gas)

A number: (such as 44 or 122) indicating the orifice opening diameter.

On 2018-09-20 by Jeff

Which has a larger orifice , l.p. or natural gas

On 2018-05-20 by (mod) -

Watch out: Sounds dangerous to me because it seems as if there may be a gas leak somewhere in your system piping.

To be safe it would be best to turn off propane at the tank and call a plumber to help you find and fix the leak.

On 2018-05-20 by Richard Medina

Someone has to have an answer as to how to make my propane work again I live in my fifth wheel and need everything to work

On 2018-05-20 by Richard Medina

Line pressure from supply is there but no pressure after the regulator

My propane is coming on and am able to light everything heater fridge stove and oven and water heater. After shutting the appliances off a going to use the system again there is no pressure to light appliances turn off propane disconnect the supply letting all pressure out of system.

Am able to get light again and again light all appliances them turn them off and try to relight any appliances the have no pressure .what do I need to do to fix so my appliances work when needed without removing a supply to try again

On 2018-04-03 by Signature

Line pressure from tank to house regulator?

On 2018-03-09 by (mod) -

Todd

Sorry but I don't understand your situation. Perhaps I can research more if we know your country, city, state or province, and the propane company's name and contact information - so we can ask them about the conversion factor they're using.

Often we find charges for propane use based on liquid volume, since the gas volumes and pressures may vary.

More information:

LPG PROPANE TANK PRESSURES is a separate article on propane pressures at the tank and meter.

On 2018-03-08 by Todd Johnson

The face of my propane meter is red and indicates 2 PSIG the propane company i use is using a 1.11 conversion factor on my bill. Are they charging me 11% because I am thinking this gas meter already compensates the additional pressure.

On 2018-03-01 by harvey

do gas regulators stop gas from flowing backward?
Can they prevent a possible flame from traveling backward into the city gas line?

On 2018-01-05 by (mod) - The boiling point of liquid propane (LPG) is -42 °C or about -43.6 °F

Dennis,

The boiling point of liquid propane (LPG) is -42 °C or about -43.6 °F

So unless your liquid propane tank and/or piping are being exposed to temperatures colder than 43 degrees below zero your LP is not freezing.


LP or Propane Gas Appliance Pressures are given in detail

at LPG & PROPANE APPLIANCE PRESSURES

On 2018-01-04 by Dennis

Furnace would not start when -14degrees f . When does LP change from liquid to vapour. Can it freeze up from tank to furnace?

On 2017-12-10 by Tamal

Which Diaphragm gas meter of G1.6B is useful and good for residential gas reticulation system between Pmax; 20Kpa and Pmax 50Kpa and why?

If Kpa is 5oKpa in a diaphragm gas meter, is it a facility or problem?

On 2017-11-22 by (mod) -

Toby,

The article GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS gives the typical natural gas pressure is used in buildings in North America. It don't say where your structure is.

You do need to be alert for the distinction between a small residential property that may use low pressure gas distribution throughout the house and a larger building that may be Distributing at higher pressure and using additional pressure regulators at various points in the building.

With no information about your building where it's located or what kind of gas distribution system is installed I'm too chicken hearted to guess and possibly give unsafe advice about the right answer for you.

However you certainly can assume that the appliance regulator pressures that you seen in GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS would be how you want your Appliance regulator to work on your equipment.

So take a look at the typical input and output Appliance regulator pressures in the article just cite.

I can't say that I know that the Chinese guy supplies will work correctly. I don't.

On 2017-11-22 by Toby

Hello, I order a custom cooking boiler from china. It is natural gas, the factory asking about what is the normal gas Preasure i have in the building.
Can u help

1. What is the normal natural gas Preasure Inside building?

2. Do i need any certification for natural gas commercial equipment ?

Thanks

On 2017-11-10 by Darcy

I have an indoor propane heater with this sticker on it: WARNING! 100# MINIMUM TANK INLET PRESSURE MIN 11" W.C. - MAX 14" W.C. I have No idea what this means. I bought a regulator hose from Home Depot and the heater is the only thing on this 20lb propane tank. Help please.

On 2017-10-10 by (mod) -

Ray:

Each appliance must have a pressure regulator that assures proper gas pressure is fed into the device itself. In addition the pressure on the inlet side of the individual appliance regulator has to be within the range that that regulator can accept. Otherwise the gas system is unsafe.

Your description sounds as if your system is not safe.

On 2017-10-09 by Ray

Beginning of the year switched from low pressure to medium pressure will this affect my appliances such as my stove the pilot light starts for the oven then it goes out and smell of gas

On 2017-08-16 by Ahmad from Austin

Mod,
Actually, I'm not a mechanical engineer and doesn't have much experience in this field and I tried to figure out from GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS but couldn't , could you please help me with this?
If the pressure requested will be 14'' w.c .

What is the House lines with elevated pressure will be tested at minimum of in psig and what is Pressure regulators on elevated pressure lines will withstand a maximum of psig?
Any one can help me with this

On 2017-08-12 by (mod) - gas pressures questions on an exam

Ahmad,

We discuss gas pressures in the GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS . Good luck on your test.

On 2017-08-12 15:55:34.314189 by (mod) -

Thank you Jack for the question, as I am always really grateful when a reader helps us make our information more clear or helps correct a mistake.

I think both statements are correct and reasonable.

Natural gas pressures arriving at a building's gas meter from the gas company's piping vary considerably depending on the location and supplier.
And in fact the service gas pressure may also vary during the day or from season to season, but it must always be at or above the required minimum pressure for gas appliances in the building to work properly.

You'll see a gas pressure regulator at the gas meter, providing a regular supply in the pressure range we cited in this article:

A typical gas pressure on the house side of the gas meter and its incoming gas pressure regulator will be 0.27-0.29 psi and in any case should not be less than 0.25 psi - that's in order to deliver a standardized gas pressure to building gas burning heaters or other appliances.

Virtually every gas appliance or heater ALSO has its own local gas pressure regulator feeding gas smoothly into the appliance, recognizing that the line pressure might be a bit higher than the specific appliance wants.

Furthermore **IF** a specific gas appliance actually requires a lower gas pressure than 0.25, the regulator will handle that pressure step-down.

Notice that the AGA's text that you quoted says ... to under 1/4 psi IF THIS IS NECESSARY.

Examples of local appliance gas regulators are at GAS REGULATORS for APPLIANCES - https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Gas_Regulators.php

There we point out that the reason for local gas pressure regulators at the appliance is to assure not just appropriate static gas pressure, but to be sure that the gas FLOW is adequate - and is maintained at the necessary pressure.

For example the total incoming gas flow rate on a gas cooktop will be much greater when all four or five burners are on than when just one burner is on. It's the appliance regulator that handles that.

If things still look wrong to you, help me out by pointing out what specifically seems odd to you and I'll be glad to work on this topic further.

On 2017-08-12 14:00:53.901275 by Jack From Michigan

Under Typical Natural Gas Pressures...

"Natural gas pressures in the building gas piping between the gas meter and the appliance regulator is typically about 7.5 to 8" wc (about 0.27-0.29 psi) and needs to be at least 0.25 psi to meet the appliance regulator's output requirements."

Under The American Gas Association offers this explanation...

"At the customer's gas meter the incoming natural gas passes through another regulator to reduce its pressure to under ¼ pound (0.25 psi) if this is necessary. (Some services lines carry gas that is already at very low pressure.)

This is the normal pressure for natural gas within a household piping system."

They cannot both be true, so which is it?

On 2017-08-11 13:36:21.555920 by Ahmad

Hi,
If the pressure requested will be 14'' w.c . What is the House lines with elevated pressure will be tested at minimum of in psig and what is Pressure regulators on elevated pressure lines will withstand a maximum of psig?
Any one can help me with this?

On 2017-08-11 13:30:15.171739 by Anonymous

Hi,
If the pressure requested will be 14'' w.c . What is the House lines with elevated pressure will be tested at minimum of in psig and what is Pressure regulators on elevated pressure lines will withstand a maximum of psig?

On 2017-05-02 06:47:56.949815 by glenn

i have a 50 kg gas bottle which still has 45 to 50% of gas in the bottle.
Trouble is - NO gas is going to the appliances and therefore no flames. Everything shuts down.

Unfortunately this happens every time we replace the gas bottle. So it is not related to the supplier of the gas.
The hot water system, oven and gas top cooker work perfectly UNTIL the regulator indicates 3. (6 when full)

We also checked the regulator with a gauge and we have another regulator on the pipeline.

Any one know what could be the problem?

On 2017-03-16 by (mod) - maximum gas supply pressure must not exceed 14" water column (3487 pa or 34.9 Millibars)

Jim,

As per GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS

The maximum gas supply pressure must not exceed 14" water column (3487 pa or 34.9 Millibars)
- that's about 0.5 psi.

Also from the article

AT THE APPLIANCE

A common operating pressure for liquid petroleum or LP gas appliance is 10" - 11" of water column (WC) or re-stating this in equivalent measures, that's 27.4 millibars or 2491 - 2739 Pascals or Pa, or about 0.36 - 0.40 psi or about 5.78 to 6.36 ounces of pressure per square inch.

On 2017-03-16 00:08:27.699051 by Jim Faltersack

My daughter has a propane gas regulator that is set at 10 psi coming off her 300 gallon tank. I think this is not right and dangerous, I believe the regulator should be changed to one that is set at 4 to 6 ounces. What say you

On 2018-01-12 by (mod) - improving gas pressure from a gas supply direct from shallow well

Dan,

Increasing pipe diameter for a gas or liquid can improve flow but not pressure.

You would need equipment to pressurize gas into an appropriate cylinder, with the obvious safety concerns involved.

On 2018-01-11 by Anonymous [Dan]

Unfortunately there is no tank or gas company to talk to... this is gas straight off of a shallow well, piped to the house.

I have no way to alter a pressure regulator at the well head. I can only increase volume (through pipe size). Will increasing the pipe size reduce/ eliminate this problem?

On 2018-01-04 by (mod) - need primary regulator to provide higher pressure ?

Dan

It sounds as if you need a higher pressure regulator at the tank and a local step down regulator at each house. Ask your plumber or gas comany to set that up for you.

On 2018-01-04 by Dan

I have a 30k BTU ventless heater (in house B) that turns off every time the furnace in house A (upstream from the heater) comes on. The gauge on both houses read about 8" WC when the furnace is not running, and drops to 3" of WC when the furnace kicks on.

The ventless heater requires 4" WC. Will increasing the diameter of the 70' of pipe from 1" to 2" between house A and B help fix this issue? I have about 70' of 1" DIA pipe connecting House A and B.

I also have about 250' of 1" DIA pipe prior to house A that could be increased if necessary, (but this is a MUCH less desirable task).

Do you have any suggestions on how to fix this so I can run both the furnace in house A and ventless heater in house B at the same time? FYI- There is nothing I can do at a regulator to increase pressure prior to house A as it is NG from a well and I'm on the end of a 1/2 - 3/4 mile run.

On 2018-01-09 by (mod) - propane heaters keep shutting off.

First check the fuel level in the tank.

If there's plenty of fuel (more than 1/4 full) you might ask your service tech to check the primary regulator.

On 2018-01-09 by PD

3 wall mounted propane heaters keep shutting off. Generator test run increasingly slow to pickup fuel supply and kicks all three heaters off as cold weather progresses.

Bad regulator or insufficient fuel supply. Lower settting regulator at 1000 gallon buried tank, larger settting regulator at house?

On 2017-08-04 by (mod) -

Don

In the home article on this at GAS PRESSURES LP vs NATURAL GAS you 'll find the NG and LP gas pressures.

Most Listed, Approved, flexible fuel gas connectors are rated for use with both natural gas and LP gas. You should see that right on the connector's manufacturer's data tag.

But

Watch out: you need to be sure to choose the proper type of flexible connector for your application - something I cannot possibly guess from your question. For example, connecting a BBQ grill that moves about or that uses a portable propane tank will NOT use a corrugated metal connector tub, it'll use a reinforced poly or rubber tube.

On 2017-08-04 by Don

Can I use a NG hose for LP or what has higher pressure before it's regulated?

On 2017-01-06 6 by (mod) -

Thanks for the follow-up. In general I think that you are correct. However there are instances in which pressure will not be constant or rather flow will not be constant.

In particular, where there are long piping runs, multiple appliances, and varying load conditions would have different appliances running at different times, it's possible for a gas piping system to experience pressure drop.

In those circumstances the solution is usually the use of multi-stage regulators and or larger diameter piping. However for a single appliance in a typical residential application I think that your conclusion is likely to be exactly correct.

On 2017-01-05 by jim barnett

Not an exam question, after thinking more about the question, I should not have asked it, I suppose a long as the supply volume was ample the pressure would remain constant at 12.3 at each orifice.

On 2017-01-05 by (mod) - relation of gas orifice size to manifold pressure

Excellent question, Jim. I don't know the answer, I suspect that while there are general engineering calculations, there are important factors that would determine the actual pressure such as piping lengths, diameters, equipment &c. Is this an exam question?

On 2017-01-05 by jim barnett

question about an lp gas furnace connection, with 4 orifices size 55, input pressure of 12.3, how much would the pressure be in the manifold assuming no other adjustments being made.

On 2016-09-25 by James W Howe Jr

Forgot my contact info: jwhowejr@centurylink.net

I was taught to ALWAYS use copper flex with LP gas and black pipe with NG. I'm am NOT talking about pressure here! That stated, my supply is two 100 lb tanks with an "automatic switch over valve".

The lines from the tanks to the valve are 1/8th inch. I need to feed a 30 inch 5 burner gas stove with a convection oven, a gas clothes dryer and a tankless 10L water heater that has a 1/2 inch gas inlet. Instead of running 1/2 inch copper flex with Ts to each appliance, do i need to increase the volume in the system to have enough gas to feed all three appliances.

If I was using NG, i'd install at least a ten foot piece of 1 1/4 black pipe to build up the volume and then run 1/2 inch Ts with 1/2 inch pipe to the appliances.

With LP I'd use 3/8 copper flex for the dryer and stove and the 1/2 inch called for for the water heater, BUT, I need to get enough volume first so how should I proceed? All of the answers on your site deal with pressure and THAT is not the issue here!


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