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Air conditioner refrigerant line insulation mistakes (C) Daniel Friedman Refrigerant line insulation installation
for air conditioners, heat pumps, refrigeration equipment

Guide to proper installation of insulation on refrigerant piping:

Why is refrigerant piping insulation needed, what problems occur if the insulation is incomplete, missing, crimped, or otherwise improperly installed, and how do we fix these problems.

What types of insulation are used on refrigerant tubing systems & where can the insulation be purchased? How is the insulation secured to the refrigerant tubing? Is it necessary to insulate refrigerant piping where it runs through ceilings and walls?

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

Proper Method for Installing Insulation on Air Conditioning & Heat Pump Refrigeration Lines & Condensate Drains

Refrigerant line insulation (C) Daniel FriedmanHere we describe defects in refrigerant piping insulation, problems caused by defective refrigerant piping insulation, recommended installation practices for refrigerant tubing insulation in building walls or cavities as well as outdoors where exposed to the weather, and interior leaks on & in wall below a split system air conditioner wall-mounted unit traced to missing insulation.

Avoid gaps and missing insulation along the refrigeration lines

Proper placement and securing of insulation on air conditioner or heat pump refrigeration lines is important to avoid condensation leaks into the building. One, or on some systems both refrigeration lines can be cool or cold under some operating conditions.

The cold copper tubing in contact with warm humid air causes moisture in the air to condense onto and then drip off of the refrigeration lines.

The result can be leaks into the building, as our photo at left illustrates.

Missing or damaged refrigerant line insulation insulation On the refrigerant lines, particularly on the larger suction line, will cause condensation and drips from the lines in humid areas.


Air conditioner refrigerant lines exposed outdoors (C) Daniel Friedman

In our photo at above left where refrigerant line insulation is incomplete, the drip stains on the attic floor may well indicate a point at which leak stains or even mold appear on the ceiling below.

In our photo at left none of the refrigerant lines are insulated where they emerge from the building wall.

If the lines were also uninsulated within the wall, depending on their location and the wall's dew point properties, a condensation, leak, mold, rot, or insect problem can ensue.

We have seen very costly building damage where lines were not properly insulated indoors: condensate drips wet gypsum board walls, leading to a costly mold remediation project.

Missing refrigerant line insulation also may increase system operating cost or in addition to a condensation worry, uninsulated high pressure refrigerant lines may result in unwanted heat transmission into some building areas..

Insulated refrigerant lines (C) Daniel Friedman

Here we illustrate a neat insulation job visible on the outdoor portion of refrigerant piping for a split system ductless air conditioner installation.

According to McQuay International, a large producer of refrigeration equipment,

Suction lines are cold – 40°F (4.4°C) SST – and cause condensation, even in conditioned spaces. In addition, any heat that enters the refrigerant adds to the superheat and reduces system efficiency.

For these reasons, suction lines should be insulated with a vapor proof insulation. This is a requirement of many building codes. Rubatex is the most common form of refrigerant line insulation. - Thanks to professional home inspector Stephen Stanczyk in Washington State (steve@safehaveninspections.com) for editing assistance.

Liquid lines generally are insulated. They are warm to hot (110°F (43.3°C) for air-cooled). If liquid lines pass through a space that is warmer than the refrigerant (i.e. the roof of a building at roof level), or if they could be considered hot enough to pose a safety risk, then insulation should be added.

Discharge lines are generally uninsulated. They may be very hot, in excess of 150°F (66°C), so insulation may be warranted as a safety consideration, or if the heat loss from the discharge gas line would be considered objectionable to the space.

Hot gas bypass lines should be insulated, especially if the runs are long or if the piping is exposed to cold temperatures.

Watch out: condensation on the suction line and at the bottom of the compressor could be an indication of excess liquid refrigerant returning to the compressor via the suction line. This liquid slugging of the compressor can damage or destroy the motor. We discuss refrigerant flooding and six common causes of liquid refrigerant slugging the compressor

at REFRIGERANT FLOODBACK, LIQUID SLUGGING.

Do Not Compress Insulation on A/C or Heat Pump Refrigeration Lines

Compressed AC refrigerant line insulation leaks (C) Daniel Friedman

The same split system air conditioner installer we described above

at A/C CONDENSATE DISPOSAL for Ductless or Split System Air Conditioners

violated the manufacturer's recommendations against compressing the insulation on the refrigerant lines - one more picky issue that we decided to let go since the wall was to be insulated with blown-in foam.

But he made the same mistake on the insulation on the refrigeration lines and condensate drain where they extend outdoors between the building wall and the compressor/condenser unit.

Our photographs illustrate that the importance of not compressing refrigeration line insulation is no joke.

In our photo below, notice those drip stains below the condensate lines at each location where the insulation was compressed by a too-tight plastic tie?

Air conditioner refrigerant line insulation mistakes (C) Daniel Friedman

And in the two photos at below, notice the incomplete insulation on the refrigeration line?

It leaves me worried about condensation and water accumulation inside the wall cavity as well. Since I know this installer is not stupid we're left thinking he has a bit of contempt for his customers, or a limited concept of workmanship.

Air conditioner refrigerant line insulation mistakes (C) Daniel Friedman

Imagine that same dripping and accumulation of water where the installer made the same mistake in a fiberglass-batt insulated wall or a wall or ceiling inside which the dew point may be reached on the refrigeration lines?

The accumulation of water in a building cavity is asking for a costly mold, insect, or rot damage problem later on.

Air conditioner refrigerant line insulation mistakes (C) Daniel Friedman

Missing insulation on the refrigeration lines outdoors is not a catastrophe - at least for a short un such as at this split system compressor/condenser unit.

Perhaps a little loss in efficiency of the system operation in some weather conditions.

Air conditioner refrigerant line insulation mistakes (C) Daniel Friedman

On a long refrigeration line run, say between an attic air handler and a ground level compressor/condenser, the effects may be more significant.

We removed the leaky, incomplete, and ugly squashed insulation on the refrigeration lines for this system (above left), replacing the squashed foam insulating tubing with new insulation (shown below)

.Air conditioning refrigerant line insulation squashed (C) Daniel Friedman

Below you can see the new refrigerant tubing insulation being installed: we're peeling out the edge tape so that the split foam insulation sides can adhere to one another.

Air conditioner refrigerant line insulation mistakes (C) Daniel Friedman

Incidentally, just clipping off the old plastic wire ties to "release" the squashed refrigerant line foam insulation won't work: after a few months the insulating foam remains permanently squashed, as you can see in our photo at left.

We paid particular attention to sealing and insulating the refrigeration line at the exit point from the building wall, reducing the chances of leaks into the wall at that point.

To keep the refrigeration line insulation in place you can still use a plastic tie if you like - just don't tighten it so far as to squash the insulation.

Air conditioner refrigerant line insulation mistakes (C) Daniel Friedman

The manufacturer (Sanyo) recommends covering the foam insulation on the refrigeration line with weatherproof tape which we did at the end of this job.

I admit that we "over-designed" the final insulation job shown in our last photo with that extra layer of foam that surrounds both lines, as we used more thickness of insulation than necessary. We did so to end with a neat, weather-protected job that, combined with the application of black weatherproof tape, should last for a long time.

Notice that the aluminum or plastic ties used to hold components in place were left loose - we did not squash the new refrigerant line insulation, and we made sure it was continuous, neat, and protected from the weather.

A neat installation takes what, maybe five minutes longer than a sloppy one, but it took about an hour to buy the replacement refrigerant line insulation, remove the original sloppy installation, and do the job right the second time.

Protect outdoor refrigerant line insulation from the weather

Manufacturers also recommend wrapping the insulated refrigerant lines exposed to outdoor weather, using an appropriate weatherproof tape.

Interior Leaks On & In Wall Below a Split System Air Conditioner Wall-Mounted Unit Traced to Missing Insulation

Split system A/C wall unit condensate leak (C) Daniel Friedman

Watch out: The split system air conditioner installer we described

at A/C CONDENSATE DISPOSAL for Ductless or Split System Air Conditioners

violated the manufacturer's recommendations against compressing the insulation on the refrigerant lines not just outside or in the walls, but also inside the wall-mounted unit itself.

During the first season of use of the newly-installed Sanyo split system air conditioner the building occupants noticed water stains and rippled wall paint extending down the wall below the indoor air handler cooling unit.

Our photo (left) shows where the refrigerant lines rise in the wall to enter the wall-mounted half of the split system air conditioner (that larger white area below the left end of the unit) and the blue tape marks where we first saw condensate water dripping from the unit.

On inspection we ran the air conditioner for an hour or so on a hot humid day, then inspected the wall surface for moisture. Simply touching or pressing on the plastic bottom of the wall-mounted cooling unit sent a cascade of water droplets down the building wall interior surface.

We gave our A/C installer a call and asked for help. To his credit, the tech came immediately to the job site.

Disassembling and inspecting the indoor cooling unit by removing its plastic cover and then lifting it carefully away from the wall mounting bracket (watch out to avoid bending refrigerant lines and causing a refrigerant leak), he found that there was no insulation whatsoever on the refrigeration lines that ran horizontally along the rear bottom of the unit.

The result was condensation on the refrigeration lines that did not drip into the unit's condensate tray but rather fell into the plastic bottom where water leaked out onto and into the building wall.

The condensate tray in a wall-mounted split system air conditioner or heat pump unit is designed to catch water condensing on the cooling coils, directing it to a drip pan and then to the condensate drain line.

But depending on routing of the refrigerant lines, these may provide another source of condensation that does not fall into the tray.

The "fix" for this condensate leak was the installation of foam insulation along the refrigerant lines inside the unit, from their point of exit from the building interior wall surface to their point of connection to the cooling coil. The leak was stopped.

Reader Question: is it OK for an air conditioner or heat pump installer to substitute the brand of copper refrigerant line insulation?

PDM insulated refrigerant line set - source: pdmus.com 2016I’m having a Mitsubishi ductless mini split installed. The contractor uses PMD Gelcopper insulation instead of the Mitsubishi type. Is making the switch a good idea?

Thanks,M.A. [private email], 2016/03/24

[Click to enlarge any image]

Shown at left: PDM Gelcopper insulated copper refrigerant-tubing line set from PDMUS. This product provides pre-insulated copper refrigerant tubing.

The insulation is polyethylene closed-cell foam on copper tubing. Detailed technical specifications and the ASTM Standards with which this product complies are provided by the manufacturer at the web page we cite below.

Reply:

Fair question, M.A., I don't know for sure what insulation you are asking about. Insulation on what

? I presume you refer to PDM (not PMD) foam insulation on refrigerant tubing on a split system A/C or heat pump. As long as the insulating properties and weather and damage resistance of the alternative insulation meet the original Mitsubishi specifications I doubt that there is a concern with the change you cite.

You can of course contact Mitsubishi directly to ask if they have an opinion.

PDM Gelcopper is a polyethylene closed-cell foam refrigeration tubing insulation. I'm doubtful that changing the insulation choice affects system operation. Of course depending on where the insulation is installed its life may vary. For example insulation products vary in durability where exposed to sunlight and weather. Here is what the manufacturer says:

R410a approved: Gelcopper can be used in applications where high-pressure gases are used as refrigeration source. UV resistant: Gelcopper is UV resistant Paintable: the insulation can be painted to match the surroundings.

PDM US recommends product installation under plastic duct to protect it from severe weather conditions, accidental damages or theft.

 

HVAC & Refrigerant Piping / Tubing Insulation Guides, Manuals, Research

 




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Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

On 2023-03-05 by InspectApedia Editor - Plumbing P Trap Insulation Options

@Shawn,

Sure, glad to help. One thing to keep in mind that will always encourage us when solving an unfamiliar building problem is that it's pretty likely that anything we run up against has occurred before and that someone has probably already figured out a good solution. The work is in the looking.

In this case, there are various reasons that we have to insulate P-traps like the one shown in your photo - to reduce the risk of freezing is the main one.

Below we show a pre-fabricated P-trap insulation system provided by Proto Corporation, a provider of PVC covers and insulation for P-traps.

In addition to pre-fabricated add-on P-trap insulating covers - almost certainly available at your local plumbing supplier and maybe at a big-box store building suppliers, other plumbing and other insulating product manufacturers, such as Nomaco Insulation,. describe as an alternative, simply using flexible closed-cell pipe insulation of a proper size, cut and fit into place on the job.

So if your P-trap is 1 1/2" in outside diameter, you'd buy flexible closed cell foam pipe inslulation (we'll show an example below) that can be cut, including cutting some ends at a 45 degree mitre to fit nicely around that P-trap.

Take a look at

P-TRAP INSULATION, STANDARD SIZING CHART [PDF] Proto Corporation, protocorporation.com - retrieved 2023/03/05, original source: PVCproducts-page/specialty-fitting-covers/standard-p-trap/

For a description of using flexible snap-on or slide-over closed cell foam pipe insulation to insulate a P-trap, take a look at this advice from Nomaco

P-TRAP INSULATION PROCEDURE for BENDS & TRAPS [PDF} Nomaco Insulation, - retrieved 2023/03/05 original source: www.nomacoinsulation.com/pdf/installation%20guidelines/TA03%200909.pdf

Illustration below: pipe insulation such as we just described, from Grainger (grainger.com)

On 2023-03-03 by Shawn

I have a question on how to insulate the pipe shown, it is getting condensation from the cold water in the condensate drain from the A/C unit in the floor above and was dripping through the drywall in the ceiling below

Pipe condensate (C) InspectApedia.com Shawn

On 2022-10-15 by InspectApedia (Editor) - use of insulation on AC or heat pump compressor motors

@Anon

We repeat this discussion and expand it to explain the use of insulation on AC or heat pump compressor motors at

COMPRESSOR MOTOR INSULATION

Please take a look.

Thank you for the helpful discussion. Your comments, suggestions, critique, or questions are always welcome here.

On 2022-10-15 by Anonymous

anonymous follow-up:

Hi. The opposite. I am in scorching Florida climate. Advise...

On 2022-10-15 by InspectApedia (Editor)

@Anon,

Looks like a careful installation - I suspect you are located in a sometimes freezing climate and that this is a heat pump. Am I right?

The installer has also added a warming jacket on the compressor motor itself.

Do give us your location.

On 2022-10-15 by Anonymous

from Anonymous

Here's a photo of the inside of my condenser unit -

On 2022-10-15 by InspectApedia (Editor) (mod) - good practice, rather than harmful, to insulate refrigeration lines right up to the compressor motor

@Anonymous by private email,

No, not at all, it's harmless to have insulated refrigerant piping close to the compressor motor (inside the condenser) and in some climates it may even be necessary;

And it is perhaps a more-meticulous job than usual.

I'd like to see a photo of the installation.
That may let us comment further.

On 2022-10-15 by Anonymous by private email

Is the pipe in this picture (from your website), that is always suppose to be insulated on the outside, not insulated within the condenser unit for some reason?

My question is, is it better to cover the pipe or should it be always exposed, (because there is actually a valid reason for it being exposed) even though it is subjected to the elements?

Please, advise.

On 2021-04-30 by danjoefriedman (mod) - weather-resistant refrigerant piping insulation?

@Chris Robbins,

Thanks, that's a helpful question. Yeah I've seen some ugly deterioration of refrigerant piping insulation too.

Please find your recently-posted question(s) or comments along with our reply now at

https://inspectapedia.com/aircond/Refrigerant_Piping_Insulation.php#WeatherResist

in the article above on this page.

You may need to clear or refresh your browser cache to see the updated page.

We welcome your further photos, comments, questions.

On 2021-04-30 by Chris Robbins

Hi-I have a Misubushi HE split system, live on the coast. The insulation on the refrigerant lines is exposed to the elements, runs under the house which is on pilings and deteriorates rapidly, exposing the copper lines.

Are there any recommendations for insulation that might stand up better, ? waterproof?
Thanks

On 2021-03-23 by danjoefriedman (mod)

@Michael Gaines, I wish we could be helpful but I just don't know a thing about your building, its construction, requirements, available chaseways, etc. to say exactly how your A/C / Heat Pump line set (refrigerant piping or tubing) should be routed or installed.

General Refrigerant piping recommendations:

- use the shortest, simplest, most-direct route for refrigerant piping

- route away from possible mechanical damage or install steel protection plates or other protection from damage as needed

- remember to allow at least the manufacturer's recommended slack or extra bend(s) near the condenser and at the air handler to allow for vibration and to ease future service.

Trane (Ingersoll Rand) has provided a helpful

On 2021-04-30 by (mod) - refrigerant line insulation recommendations for coastal or hostile environments

Gastec polyethylene refrigerant tubing stands up to hostile envrionments better than bare copper - cited & discussed at InspectApedia.com Gas-Tec tubing@Chris Robbins,

Absolutely, there are refrigerant tubing insulation products that are more-durable for tough conditions like your coastal area, and thanks for a helpful question that I'd not considered.

1. Coated refrigerant tubing: Let's start with what you should be using for actual refrigerant tubing, since salt in the air at coastal areas is quite corrosive to copper tubing:

Happily there are polyethylene-coated or plastic-encased copper tubing products that can serve for refrigerant piping and that, through that coating, resist corrosion in coastal or damp or hostile environments.

We also use the same product for oil line piping when the line runs in contact with a concrete floor or masonry foundation.

Shown in our image above is Gas-Tec's 1/2" OD x 50' Coated Copper Refrigeration Tubing Coil (Yellow) that the company describes as follows:

Gas-Tec® is a flexible yellow polyethylene-coated copper tubing that is continuously line-marked for clearer identification and protection of Natural Gas and Liquefied Petroleum Gas installations.

The polyethylene coating provides added corrosion protection and enables the tubing to be used for both above and below ground installations. The continuous line markings on the coating indicates tube contents, ASTM specification, size and lot number which enable the tubing to be traced back to the origin of manufacture.

Gas-Tec is flexible and easy to install with no additional training required.

Added Corrosion Protection:

Polyethylene coating protects copper from corrosion - Polyethylene is one of the most inert plastics available, Can Be Used for Both Above & Below Ground


This product is sold by HVACR suppliers including supplyhouse.com where I found this image.


2. Jacketed refrigerant tubing insulation: Now for refrigerant tubing insulation, the slip-on foam insulating products most HVACR techs use is quite durable except where exposed to lots of sunlight; in that location - even up north where we've worked in NY or MN I see the insulation beginning to crack and crumble after 5-10 years.

Two options include

- using a polyethylene flexible tube-covering sized large enough to fit over the insulation - this is a good add-on image if your pipe inslulation is currently in acceptable condition.

- using a refrigerant tubing insulation product like Armacell's Armaflex insulation that combines foam insulation with a UV-resistant outer jacket - this is a good option for new refrigerant piping installations in environments where there is extra risk of corrosion or exposure to other harsh conditions.

Here's what the company says:

ArmaFlex Shield - Continuous Coil Pipe Insulation

New ArmaFlex® Shield flexible foam insulation from Armacell is a moisture-resistant and UV-resistant product with a durable protective jacket specially designed for line set, HVAC and refrigeration applications.

This tough coating can take the abuse of challenging installations and stands up to the effects of weather and extreme elements like UV, heat and cold, making it a great choice for outdoor applications.

For a durable refrigerant tubing insulation job the company says you ought to seal all of the insulation joints, including the end butt-joints using a suitable adhesive like their ArmaFlex 520 adhesive.

That's probably most-important where the material is exposed to the weather, and might be less critical under the floor over a crawl area and where you're also using a polyethylene-coated copper tubing.

- source: https://www.armacell.us/products/armaflexshield/

Above an image of the Amraflex product. There are probably other similar durable-insulation products on the market that will also perform better than the traditional snap-on foam refrigerant line insulation material.

Duct Taped Refrigerant Insulation?

For the record, I tried cleaning up the insulation at this outdoor refrigerant line in New York, taping it with black duct tape. Here's the new installation - it looked great. For a while.



But to set the record straight: less than 10 years later, this is what that attractive duct-taped refrigerant tubing insulation job looked like today.

You may agree with me that duct tape outdoors is not a durable "solution" to making the refrigerant piping insulation weather-resistant.


On 2021-04-30 by Chris Robbins - any recommendations for insulation that might stand up better ?

Hi-I have a Misubushi HE split system, live on the coast. The insulation on the refrigerant lines is exposed to the elements, runs under the house which is on pilings and deteriorates rapidly, exposing the copper lines.
Are there any recommendations for insulation that might stand up better, ? waterproof?
Thanks

On 2021-03-23 by (mod) - how should my refrigerant lineset be installed?

@Michael Gaines, I wish we could be helpful but I just don't know a thing about your building, its construction, requirements, available chaseways, etc. to say exactly how your A/C / Heat Pump line set (refrigerant piping or tubing) should be routed or installed.

General Refrigerant piping recommendations:

- use the shortest, simplest, most-direct route for refrigerant piping

- route away from possible mechanical damage or install steel protection plates or other protection from damage as needed

- remember to allow at least the manufacturer's recommended slack or extra bend(s) near the condenser and at the air handler to allow for vibration and to ease future service.

Trane (Ingersoll Rand) has provided a helpful guide to INSTALLING REFRIGERANT PIPING [PDF] (2011) as part of its training series,

you can download a copy here at

https://inspectapedia.com/aircond/Refrigerant-piping-installation-guide-Trane.pdf

Trane Corporation, website: https://www.trane.com/, retrieved 2021/03/23 original source: https://www.tranebelgium.com/files/book-doc/20/en/20.aqerykdx.pdf The company has offices world-wide.

On 2021-03-23 by Michael Gaines

Installing a 3 ton rooftop condenser and furnace below it on the first floor how should my lineset be installed

On 2020-09-11 - by (mod) -

Tom

I'm not sure we'll find a code citation but certainly you want to insulate the refrigerant piping; otherwise you'll get some un-wanted heat transfer that's likely to affect the system operation, perhaps increasing its operating costs, even if condensation itself isn't a concern.

On 2020-09-11 by tom

Is there a requirement to wrap the refrigerant line with insulation if running underground in a conduit. but sealed on both ends?

On 2020-09-08 - by (mod) - Replacing refrigerant piping is not a do-it-yourself project.

Rob

Replacing refrigerant piping is not a do-it-yourself project.

The technician needs to use refrigerant collecting devices, refrigerator restoration equipment, and other steps to avoid contamination of the piping system as well as an illegal environmental release of refrigerant as well as replacing the refrigerant with a proper charge quantity when they piping repair or replacement is complete.

Typically you would also add a refrigerant filter drier at that time

On 2020-09-08 by Rob Shea

Is replacing exterior refrigeration lines insulation a do it yourself task or is it necessary to have a (Mitsubishi) installer do it?

On 2019-12-16 - by (mod) -

Thank you Rohit; we're very grateful when you find our information accurate, useful, un-biased. We also welcome criticism, content suggestions, questions.

On 2019-12-16 by Rohit Patel

Hi, The points covered in the article are incredibly insightful Refrigerant line insulation installation Thank you for the information.

On 2019-05-31 - by (mod) - condensate leaks at incompletely-insulated refrigerant piping

Since foam insulation is not hard, it should have enough flex that it can seal tightly around a condensate drain pipe and still handle vibration and thermal expansion/contraction dimensional changes.

However let's be sure we're addressing the main problem here. We want the condensate to enter the drain not sit in an overflow or find a leak in a condensate pan.

If the refrigerant piping insulation is intact over its length and not compressed (for example by being squeezed in a hanger strap) you ought not see condensation on that piping run (it's actually condensate - water condenses out of air onto the cooler pipe surface, the pipe isn't really "sweating" as does our skin when it exudes moisture out through its pores).

But In addition to adding a little insulation right at the air handler - your first photo - for which you could simply use a short length of refrigerant piping insulation cut and slipped snugly in place - you ought to take a look inside the air handler to be sure that the condensate drain is working properly and the pan slopes to the drain.

We don't want a puddle of condensate to accumulate inside the air handler such that its depth causes the level of condensate to reach and leak out at the air handler opening where the suction line enters the air handler - as shown in your photo.

IMAGE LOST by older version of Clark Van Oyen’s Comments Box code - now fixed. Please re-post the image if you can. Sorry. Mod.

On 2019-05-31 by Anonymous

I have my air handler in the attic. I went up in the attic last year and noticed a small puddle of water on the plywood.

I found a tear in the bottom of the insulation around the pipe and this is causing water (sweating/condensation) to sit in the insulation and drip out.

So I put a pan down to catch the water.

As you can see by one picture, the copper pipe comes through the handler with no insulation or putty to stop the cold air from coming out into the attic and causing the line to sweat.

This also runs down to where the hole is in the insulation. I went back the other night and found water in the pan again and notices a new spot where water was dripping. I also found that where the installers supported the lines that the strapping material was damp to wet.

Note: My attic is foamed so it does not get very hot up there even in the summer.
I plan on replacing most all the foam, putting a barrier where the pipes come out of the handler, putting some cut sections of PVC pipe where the strap supports are to stop the insulation from being crushed.

Questions.

Should the new foam fit snug around the pipe or have room for movement. The current foam is a one size fits most all.

If I get loos or snug foam, seal the ends/joints with a foam tape, close off the handler hole and better support the copper, will this stop my sweating or will it always be there?

The copper pipe and foam run down into the wall and out to the outside unit. That wall is also foamed, do I need to worry about it sweating?
Thanks


...

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