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Door flashing & sealing:
This article describes the proper flashing details for exterior doors to avoid air leaks, rot, decay, and energy losses at doors. In this article series we discuss the selection and installation of windows and doors, following best construction and design practices for building lighting and ventilation, with attention to the impact on building heating and cooling costs, indoor air quality, and comfort of occupants.
We review the proper installation details for windows and doors, and we compare the durability of different window and door materials and types.
Doors are flashed the same as windows on the sides and
top, and similarly at the sill. Clad door frames are flashed
like clad windows (see our window flashing illustrations below, Figures 3-13, Figure 3-15, Figure 3-16) and solid wood frames are flashed like traditional
windows with brickmold (Figures 3-17 also below).
[Click to enlarge any image]
Figure 3-13: Installing Flange-type WIndows Over House-Wrap
Figure 3-15: Installing Flange-type Windows Before the House Wrap is Applied
Figure 3-16: Installing Flange-type Windows with Felt Paper
Figure 3-17: Installing Windows with Brickmold Trim
door is well-protected by a porch or large overhang, good
pan flashing at the sill is critical to prevent water from
seeping into the floor framing. Doors leading to patios
and decks are particularly vulnerable to wetting around
the sill from splashback and, in cold climates, from snow
Pan Flashing for Exterior Doors
Prefab plastic door pans typically come
in three sections that are fused together at the required
length with solvent-based cement. Metal pans require a
brake to form and should be caulked or, preferably, soldered
In fact the absence of effective flashing at this 20-year-old sliding glass door led to the need for a complete door, door jamb, and trim replacement on this Poughkeepsie home.
When the new door was installed we included a sit-built pan flashing and membrane flashing around the door for a more durable replacement.
Peel-and-stick membranes have become
increasingly popular due to their ease of use and flexibility.
Whether to use a metal pan, plastic pan, or peel-and stick
membranes is a matter of personal preference as all
work well (see Figure 3-26 below).
Whatever material is used, all pans should have a dam
on the ends and along the inside edge. On the exterior, the
pan flashing should lap over the deck or masonry flashing
below. If forming a pan with peel-and-stick membrane,
carry it up the sides at least 6 inches, and turn up the inside
edge so it is held in place by the underlayment or finish
flooring (Figure 3-27 above).
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(June 17, 2014) j bod said:
I have an exterior door out to a concrete slab. How should the door pan flashing be sealed to the slab? A bead between the flashing and the slab? Or, what is better? Thank you.
I use a sealant in that location to guard against drafts & insects.
(Oct 22, 2014) Ray said:
I have an exterior door that exits to a rooftop (flat roof with roofers felt finish). I used peel and stick flashing for a pan and the flashing is now on top of the exterior deck roof. What I didn't think of was:
How do I cover the peel and stick flashing that is showing on the doorstep and the flat roof? Thanks,
Ray, I may not have a perfectly clear understanding of your question, but most peel and stick flashing materials, similar to ice and water shield, will seal quite well around nails or screws so you can cover exposed peel and stick flashing with any suitable material that works in that location, such as a metal cap flashing under a door, wood trim nailed under a door threshold, etc.
You do want to pay attention to water routing: any flashing needs to be installed so that at its bottom edge it brings water out to the exterior of the surfaces being flashed.
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